need a master cylinder

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crazy 340

crazy 340

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ok guys

need a master cylinder for my duster
I went to my napa store and the guy there
told me he cant have the part for the moment
they are back order... so I went to ebay and I found those
can you tell me wich one is the best choice
in company name and bore size

my car is a 1971 duster with a 1973 disc upgrade
it is manual brake (never have power brake on)

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/CARDONE-10-1...:Duster&hash=item20d08735ee&vxp=mtr#vi-ilComp

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Centric-Part...outh|Model:Duster&hash=item257e496b21&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Centric-Part...outh|Model:Duster&hash=item4173b7458d&vxp=mtr

and my second question is

I think the proportioning valve didnt been change for a disc brake one
the rear tire seem to brake harder then the front is it normal???
 
Cardone 101571 = Power Disk Brakes (15/16" Bore)
Cardone 101627 = Manual Disk Brakes (1 1/32" Bore)

Now, provided there is the groove for the manual brake pushrod, you could use either. The 15/16" will be easier to push for the same amount of brake force but have more pedal travel. I have the 1 1/32" Bore on mine and it is very stiff. You really have to stand on it to get wheel lock on all fours. I've considered switching to the 15/16"

For the rear brakes working harder (they probably lock first), get a Wilwood Adjustable proportioning valve and install it in the rear line. You'll want to do this always as you can fine tune it so the fronts lock just immediately before the rears.
 
thanks for the reply

for the proportionning valve
I only need to cut the rear line and install it that way
that simple

turn the knob until the front lock a little bit first???
 
Yeah, just plumb it into the rear line. I'd suggest doing it after the distribution block so the BRAKE light has no chance of coming on because you dropped pressure.

You'll just want to make the fronts lock for a split second before the rears. That will keep it stopping straight. If the rears lock first, it gets hairy.
 
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