Need advice on buying a sandblaster.

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One other big difference between using sand and soda. The soda won't remove any of the original coatings on the metal...such as factory rustproofing. Sand will.

only drawback to soda (if you want to call it that) is you'll need to wash the blasted areas good with soap and water. The soda will leave a residue that has to be washed off
 
Blasting's a regular part of my day around here. :-D You won't regret buying that pressure pot you're looking at and will soon wonder how you survived this long without one.

I'm as big an Eastwood fan as the next girl, but they're pricey. Check with a place called TP Tools [http://www.tptools.com/] for those accessories mentioned in this thread (tips, gloves, masks, etc.) and a ton of other stuff you can't live without. They're also having a Labor Day sale through September 6.

If you end up using sand versus another media, you can easily make your own filter with a couple layers of old window screen stapled between two pieces of plywood with an opening in the middle and a bucket underneath to catch it. Try to find "#4 Fine" blasting sand rather than playground sand.

Silicosis is very serious business -- please don't disregard that post.

You're getting great advice here (love the tip on the kiddie pool -- sweeeeet idea!) but that's about all I can add to it. Best of luck with the project!
 
We to blast here daily, we have cabinet and larger commercial blaster outside. Other than adequate air it can be important to have moisture control. We have a large cooler/evaporator, but for smaller jobs a in line moisture remover would help.
 
BigStrok3, I just finished sandblasting the complete front end on my 66. See this thread.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=43321

As Leanna said, use a #4 Fine sand and it will work properly and do a good job. In areas like the engine compartment, you don't have to worry about warpage from the blasting. There's enough bends, inies and outies, that warpage won't be a problem. However, NEVER do sandblasting on larger body panels such as doors or quarters, because you will get warpage.
A good trick to save some time and sand is to go over everything quickly with about a 40 grit sandpaper before you start blasting, and it will allow the sand work much faster. Also, along any seams where there's old caulking or undercoating, use the edge of a scraper to loosen everything and it will also save you a lot of time. I also keep the scraper handy to loosen up small bits of undercoating that take forever to blast if you don't give them a little scrape.
As previously mentioned, make sure you wear a good respirator with filters, because this stuff can do some major damage to your lungs. The other necessity is a blasting hood, with lots of spare lenses for it.
I've never done any soda blasting, but I don't believe soda will remove rust, so sand is much better for the area you plan to blast. Good luck.
 
Thanks guys and gals really appreciate the info. Ill end up buying one later this month and get started.
 

Is sand safe on the under body, frame rails, floor pans and such or is there a chance of warping there as well? I'm looking to go down to bare metal on all panels underneath so I can spray the bottom with a rust encapsulator then something like Eastwoods chassis black.
 
You will be fine on the undercarriage, just stay off the skins/body panels.
 
ALSO, when blasting the underside/back of fenders, hood, trunk lid, etc(like the bracing) don't spend too much time going around the holes in the bracing, because it will warp the metal on the front of the panel...ummm chock that one up to experience(trunk lid)
 
ALSO, when blasting the underside/back of fenders, hood, trunk lid, etc(like the bracing) don't spend too much time going around the holes in the bracing, because it will warp the metal on the front of the panel...ummm chock that one up to experience(trunk lid)

BEEN THERE, DONE THAT. I burned the tee-shirt.

Now I stuff cardboard or something between the support and the skin.
 
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