Need best method for no leaks at rearmain and oil pan

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Rodzilla

Rodzilla

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Hit me up with your best surefire no leak methods for sealing pan at front & rear plus the rear main. I've tryed several methods and always end up with a leak whether its big or small. For you guys who have zero leaks, what did you do?
 
I just use a little RTV on the main seals and the pan seal. I've never had a leak. I also use a little around the outside of the front crank seal before I install it in the timing cover.

Jack
 
i know they make a double o ring seal for the big blocks. but on the small blocks i put a thin layer of rvt on both sides of the saddle gaskets and install them.
 
I install the oil pan gaskets with very light coating of the black RTV, then install the pan and all the bolts and just snug them down lightly, so as not to "smoosh" the gaskets out (using the wet RTV like a lube). The next day, I'll tighten them up all the way.

Also, make sure you always have a good constant crankcase vacuum setup. That may just be your problem all along. I can't stand seeing those little mini K&N's on top the valve covers.......
 
I do the same thing as the other posters said except I use "The Right Stuff" it's made by permetex and is available at most parts stores.
 
i toss the oil pan gaskets and end seals right in the garbage can. a caulk gun tube of black rtv will seal everything up and it'll never leak. done hundreds of engines this way.
 
and make sure that every seal is lubricated so that it does not run dry during first startup!

Michael
 
cudavert said:
I install the oil pan gaskets with very light coating of the black RTV, then install the pan and all the bolts and just snug them down lightly, so as not to "smoosh" the gaskets out (using the wet RTV like a lube). The next day, I'll tighten them up all the way.

Also, make sure you always have a good constant crankcase vacuum setup. That may just be your problem all along. I can't stand seeing those little mini K&N's on top the valve covers.......
Click to expand...
Yes crankcase pressure will cause pan gasket leaks on strokers.Get the crankcase Evac. setup for your stroker.:D
View attachment car pics 66 Dart 152.jpg
 
Any engine needs to have some sort of crankcase ventilation system that DRAWS the gasses out of the engine. A stock type PCV system is more than adequate for most street- street/strip engines. A Race only eningine would require something like the kit shown or something else to create negative crankcase pressure. Most of the guys I see complaining about chronic oil leaks don't have a sufficient PCV system on their cars. Breather caps don't do it! They are designed to allow air INTO the crankcase as the gasses are drawn out by the PCV. Bad gasses out- fresh air in & no oil leaks! Everyone's happy!
 
68 HEMI GTS said:
i toss the oil pan gaskets and end seals right in the garbage can. a caulk gun tube of black rtv will seal everything up and it'll never leak. done hundreds of engines this way.
Click to expand...

That is very good to hear. I have a fabricated aluminum pan from Charlie's Oil Pans and its not designed to accept gaskets. So I did exactly as above. Fingers crossed it works on first fire-up as the bolts are a PITA to get to (they're inside the pan).
 
Also, make sure your sealing surfaces are clean and oil-free in order to help the rtv to bond to those surfaces. Most rtv sealants take 24 hours to fully cure so don't be in a hurry to fill the system with oil.
 
I personally hate the Black RTV and I only use the Ultra Grey. Nothing gets passed this stuff.
 
DFX 340 Duster said:
Also, make sure your sealing surfaces are clean and oil-free in order to help the rtv to bond to those surfaces. Most rtv sealants take 24 hours to fully cure so don't be in a hurry to fill the system with oil.
Click to expand...

Mine sat for a week the first time around before filling with oil. I'm pretty sure that positive crankcase pressure is my biggest culpret. I'm going to try the pcv valve. I only had breathers on each valvecover and was not schooled in the operation of said valve before. I'm not sure yet what sealant I will use, but I will let it set up somewhat before the final torquing of pan bolts. Changing rear main as well even though I think it was probably ok. Thanks, and I welcome any more thoughts on this.
 
i had a small leak around 1 pan bolt in my 416 i just mean 1 or 2 drops on the floor after a run could never get it tight.there was 2 breathers in the valve covers i left 1 in and put a pvc in the other and my oil leak stoped .
 
Of all these posts I didn't see ONE mention about how to put the rear main seal in.
(offset seal ends in relation to the maincap)
 
Make sure your pan bolt holes haven't concaved from overtightening. This will cause it to leak too. If they are, smack em with a hammer somewhat gently til they flatten out. I just use a lil rtv to attach the cork gasket to the rubber end seals and torque it down. This is the way I was taught and never saw a leak. I also use a very very light coating on the rear main mating surface to the block of RTV.
 
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