Need help perfecting the budget build hemi swap

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garyfish340

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I posted this on the welcome wagon. ( because I didn't know what I was doing ) - I've been on this forum for a long time. I've try'd to answer questions to help guys building Gen III projects on a budget. But now I need help.
After 50 K miles of everyday driving I've proven that the 3G can be done on the cheap, and be reliable. Unfortunately my Barracuda got T boned, and the frame tore in 2. So now it's time to transplant everything into a 1975 Duster. Which is a good thing. I always thought that once I worked out all the bugs, I wanted to clean things up, or get a car with a nicer body, and implement everything I've learned since 2007.
One thing that has always drove me crazy with the 3G A Body thing, has been the offset steering column. The column has to move to the left of the car, and a piece by the firewall bushing needs to be nipped. One question I have is what is inside that column tube, above the bushing ? Is there a way to cut a inch from the column, re-install the bushing, spring, and clip ? ( on the 75 duster column. ) I always thought my 69 barracuda column looked messy, this time I want it to look well engineered. I still want to keep it a budget project, but I want to do it cleanly.
 

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I'd bet you could slide it up some, but it would just be a question of what you're willing to do to get it there. To my knowledge the only thing down there is a just a bearing to support the lower end of the shaft. Reason would dictate that the closer the bearing to the end of the shaft, the better off you'll be for rigidity, but I don't think moving it 0.5"-1" will really hurt anything. I got to have tons of fun with my car since I found out it had column shifted manual steering column when I went to do the swap (power steering as well). Ended up swapping the shaft with a manual one and pulling all the linkage out from inside the column for shifting stuff. I should really just buy the right column one of these days...
 
Just take the column apart and cut 2-2.5 inches off the bottom. Then reinstall the bottom bushing/bearing.

Here's what mine looks like after the modifcation.

IMG_3321.jpg


There are a few threads about it on here as well.

Riddler
 
After speaking with Norm Koller, I think there is a chance to do a nice neat job. He thinks if I slide the C clip down toward the coupler, the spring will drop, and I can work the bearing out. ( 72 an up have a bearing- I didn't know this ) Than as Map63vette said, I should be able to do a nice neat cut on the column casing, and slip it all back together.
When I put the 69 Barracuda together this problem occurred at the last, inopportune moment, after the non-fitting engine was dropped. Thus it didn't look much better than after the steering column exploded in the accident.
( have you ever felt like you were posting old news, as I was typing Riddler posted the perfect photo to show how a pro does it, thanks bud.)
 
Many thanks for the photo, and that's how good I want mine to look. So the front can be assembled now, it should look pretty clean. I think this engine compartment is luckily more than I could ask for. Than Friday it's time to put a street lynx in. Than I need to figure a non-conspicuous way to hide the engine that won't fit under the hood.
 
Oh and rid myself of the giant front ballast. By the way does anybody know of another factory 3 point seat belt system that I can replace the 75 dusters with ? The shoulder harnesses are non retractable, and it's missing the plastic clip that holds the lap belt to the shoulder belt. I'm trying to keep a factory look.
 

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I'd bet you could slide it up some, but it would just be a question of what you're willing to do to get it there. To my knowledge the only thing down there is a just a bearing to support the lower end of the shaft. Reason would dictate that the closer the bearing to the end of the shaft, the better off you'll be for rigidity, but I don't think moving it 0.5"-1" will really hurt anything. I got to have tons of fun with my car since I found out it had column shifted manual steering column when I went to do the swap (power steering as well). Ended up swapping the shaft with a manual one and pulling all the linkage out from inside the column for shifting stuff. I should really just buy the right column one of these days...
I have the collars from my 69 Barracuda if it help you out, but the steering column is exploded worse than I've ever seen one. It's sort of the shape of the line you see when a lye detector is going.
 
I really probably just need to get a whole new column. My car was such a jigsaw puzzle of parts from different years it doesn't really surprise me, but it's always interesting to work on to try to figure out what it came from. I've debated trying to got to a rack and pinion setup one of these days as well, so I may end up with something entirely different. I just let projects snowball in my head before letting them snowball in action, lol.
 
Garyfish340 glad you were able to find the answers you were looking for. The new car the motor is going into looks good. keep us posted on how things are going.

Aj
 
Didn't know about the column deal. I guess that is something I can do too lol! I have an extra column if someone needs it. It's an auto column though.
 
:wack: Thank you so much, the seat belt site was like Christmas. My Wife Dawn has M.S., and she really doesn't have the torso strength to sit upright without help. The link you sent me, allows us to have fun again. Which is a gift. Because despite how awful this disease can be, she still likes her fun. Hope you guys take this link as a little humorous gift back, and thank you again.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=146185762111271&l=64506115328825381
 
I really probably just need to get a whole new column. My car was such a jigsaw puzzle of parts from different years it doesn't really surprise me, but it's always interesting to work on to try to figure out what it came from. I've debated trying to got to a rack and pinion setup one of these days as well, so I may end up with something entirely different. I just let projects snowball in my head before letting them snowball in action, lol.
I got my new column from Norms speed shop - http://normsspeedshop.com/
 
Still chipping away at the gen 3 budget build. I'm adding these photos of what I've done. Mind you, installed yes, adjusted, NO !
 

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Next... Not experienced with the larger 1" T bars, so I'm not certain if I should be alarmed yet.
 

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Looks like you used a K-Member from QA1. Were you happy with the quality and installation instructions?

Project looks like it's coming along nicely. Keep the pics and descriptions coming.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
So it only made sense to tear down the trans while it was out, and it turned out it was in great shape. I got new gaskets, and seals, and replaced the bearings, and bushing just as preventive measure. I couldn't believe the tiny bolts that held the trans cross member in. In 1969 they were huge, by 75 the were smaller than 3/8", and the looked eaten up a bit. Replaced them with grade 8. It took 5 minutes to bolt the trans up, super easy. But before that there was a half hour of putting it on the jack, and it sliding back off. Thank god the converter stayed. The old TTI headers had a few holes where the pipes meet the collectors, about in 3/8 size. A few people suggested using a epoxy on them, but I found it easier to just mig them up, and use a pipe to knock off the wire inside. The 1" T bars rubbed the drivers side header, so I had to hammer on the new heat paint a bit. Counter production. I painted them with Eastwood high heat black satin, hope it works. also the brake proportioning valve needed to be moved, cause the header sat on it. The starter plopped right in, " surprise!" My home made strut rods were a debacle. I cross threaded one, and ended up shaving a 1/8" inch off that end. Eventually paranoia, and dissatisfaction won out. So I ordered new sleeves from AFCO, ( $12.00 ) and everything is good now. The interior bench seat doesn't satisfy the eyes, but it's oh so good on the ***.
 

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When I bought this megashifter back in the 80's it came with sheet metal screws to mount it. One time I hit the shifter so hard it fell over, ripped the screw right out of the floor. So now its mounted on 3/8" grade 8 bolts. installed from underneath.
 
The secret is, it's not a real 6.1, so I gave up the ghost. It's off the jeep assembly line. I purchased the engine from XV, as the xfi273, and intake option, and it had all kinds of oil, and vacuum leaks. Just to be nice, we'll say, it got bounced around by the shipper. Tom Williams, of Heyad, who used to have a shop close to Englishtown, asked to take a peak at it to resolve some issues. He got a blank and did a welders crank, changed the pistons, chevy rods, changed the intake valve, and pocket ported it. There were no kits available when I bought this. The problem is. That Christmas Tom passed away in his sleep. ( coolest hippy ever.) That's a huge thing, because every time I go somewhere like Ray Barton's which is right where I live, they want to know more than I can tell them. So every time I say, ( For example - " I want to purchase Eagle heads ?" The answer is, " Bad idea." One time Ray said, " It's lunch time, you have to leave now, bye."
 
Even the center caps can be reused, once the mustang is popped off. Clearances are awesome. Because the UCA were just bolted on, and not adjusted it seems like a problem, but trust me, it's not.
Now comes the awful work of wiring. I wish I could post photos of the old engine bay, and someone could tell me, what stuff is air conditioning, or the old ignition so I could remove those things. All I really need is the start and the run wire, and the big #4 wire I use to divert the the heavy juice away from the amp-meter. That's the way I ran it since 2007, and never had an issue.

[ame]http://youtu.be/1hfHtwtZEvQ[/ame]
 

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