Need help perfecting the budget build hemi swap

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Alot of people say, " It's hard to diagnose over the internet, so maybe this will help.
First my friends think that the car is too loud. In the video I run to the gas station to top off the tank, and the moment I shut the car down, you get a real earful of the surrounding enviroment. Two it drives good, the ground was wet, with patches of ice, especially on concrete surfaces, and where puddle built up. I really couldn't use 1st gear after the gas station. If I didn't have a box of wiring tools on the front seat, it would be pretty docile as far as sound. BUT! For some reason at exactly 9 minutes, as I try to accelerate down the road I live on the carburator does a small pop. The only thing I can figure is I'm coming off a steep incline, and making a sharp left. Any fixes out there guys ?

[ame]http://youtu.be/y9amYK23MCw[/ame]

Later that night I had a chance to go to a snow cover parking lot, and let loose, ( no pops through the carb.) it was a blast
 
So my cheap street PCV vapor separator seems to work fine. It should keep all that nasty sludge from building up carbon, on my pistons, and valves.
I was reading on a Camaro forum how this idea wouldn't work, because the petcock valve leaked vacuum, when they attempted to do it. That would be because air running from one side, to the other creates a vacuum,( that's how a paint gun works ) but for this purpose, it's running a vacuum so you'd have to flip the valve over, and it still wouldn't work because, we're not talking about 30 - 65 lbs of negative pressure. So a brass valve would be too heavy. I say... tap that *****, ( I mean ) ampule, install a small male brass fitting, and run a hose to a larger reservoir. ( big enough to add removing the oil from that reserve, part of the oil change maintenance schedule every 3000 miles.
P.S. I don't recommend using the air filter that came with the unit, I think it could impede airflow, and cause crankcase pressure. The factory unit used something very similar to a choreboy copper scouriing pad. I just stuffed one in the ampule. The air would normally come through the inlet into the glass, than up through the filter in the center like an oil filter.
Now I have to re-plumb the carb to the regulator, which isn't there, because it took a dump. I need to plumb Just to under the front of the floor pan. The temporary set up I have, is shady at best, but works for testing.
 

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Read this, it's true.
On March 23,1994 the medical examiner viewed the body of Ronald Opus and concluded that he died from a shotgun wound to the head. Mr. Opus had jumped from the top of a ten story building intending to commit suicide. He left a note to that effect, indicating his despondency. As he fell past the ninth floor his life was interrupted by a shotgun blast passing through a window which killed him instantly.

Neither the shooter nor the descender was aware that a safety net had been installed just below at the eighth floor level to protect some building workers and that Ronald Opus would not have been able to complete his suicide the way he had planned.

"Ordinarily," Dr. Mills continued, "a person who sets out to commit suicide and ultimately succeeds, even though the mechanism might not be what he intended, is still defined as committing suicide."

That Mr. Opus was shot on the way to certain death, but probably would not have been successful because of the safety net, caused the medical examiner to feel that he had a homicide on his hands. The room on the ninth floor, whence the shotgun blast emanated, was occupied by an elderly man and his wife. They were arguing vigorously and he was threatening her with a shotgun. The man was so upset that when he pulled the trigger he completely missed his wife and the pellets went through the window, striking Mr. Opus.

When one intends to kill subject A but kills subject B in the attempt, one is guilty of the murder of subject B. When confronted with the murder charge the old man and his wife were both adamant. They both said they thought the shotgun was unloaded. Thed old man said it was his long-standing habit to threaten his wife with the unloaded shotgun. He had no intention to murder her. Therefore the killing of Mr. Opus appeared to be an accident; that is, the gun had been accidentally loaded.

The continuing investigation turned up a witness who saw the old couple's son loading the shotgun about six weeks prior to the fatal accident. It transpired that the old lady had cut off her son's financial support and the son, knowing the propensity of his father to use the shotgun threateningly, loaded the gun with the expectation that his father would shoot his mother. The case now becomes one of murder on the part of the son for the death of Ronald Opus.

Now comes the exquisite twist. Further investigation revealed that the son was, in fact, Ronald Opus. He had become increasingly despondent over the failure of his attempt to engineer his mother's murder. This led him to jump off the ten story building on March 23rd, only to be killed by a shotgun blast passing through the ninth story window. The son had actually murdered himself so the medical examiner closed the case as a suicide.
 
The Aftermarket automotive performance industry must think people are seriously stupid. Below is a photo of 2 vapor separator, The blue one is the piece I just purchased at Lowes for $24.99. It's made of a nice cast aluminium, w/ glass ampule, with a guard around the outside. It has a powder coated housing, and comes with the brass fittings included, The clear vapor separator on the right, is the piece sold by Jegs, and Summit racing. It looks very cheap, and cost twice the price ( actually almost 3 times the price when you figure in shipping, and handling. ) Even if I had money to burn, I would be totally insulted by the prices Jegs, and Summit list things for.
My Separator has the same filter element the clear one uses, but I want to try the copper scouring pad because a lot of racers report better results, and less clogging.
International Harvestor also has a similar piece available for 12 bucks, if you don't mind it not being clear glass, and their's is made of some type of PVC plastic.
 

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So without copying anybody's design, I tooled around with building a coilover suspension using only part that can be bought through a wrecking yard, or auto parts store. Theoretically it should function fine if i make two upper control arm mounts that come straight up from my k frame, knock 2 holes in each inner fender, and clearance around the stock UCA mounting. ( The k member that is bolted into the car was purely fabricated by guessing, and the only issue was that the LCA were to low. )
Mind you this is all theoretical stuff, if you try this, and it's a giant fail, don't cry to me. I probably won't attempt to finish this either. I have no desire to ruin my inner fenders. The biggest thing is getting the ball joints to work together. Aside from that it's a matter of messing with $50.00 worth of tubing. Corvette lower control arms ( $95 ) , and 1991 spindles ( $135 ), you have to make your own steering arm, heim links, and sleeves out of steel round bar stock. $ 20 local machine shop. On the k frame the 2 longitude pipes are useless because on this set up you would need a 1989 mustang gt rack and pinion, and it would need to sit 1.5" higher. ( which was anticipated which is what the 2 steel plated are there for - later mods. ) With that rack set up you would need a Milodon Dodge dakota pro touring rear sump oil pan. You also need to build something to support the stresses the coilover shocks will put on the frame.
I could go on, and on, and on. But it doesn't change the fact that you need 2 hold through the inner fenders on each side for the control arms. Does anybody really want to do that.
 

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Next I have a ton of photos explaining why this is not working right out of the gate, and showing my revisions to make it fuction.
 
Here is the secondary choice for where the rack can be positioned, and it doesn't require a special oil pan. Below you can see where I mounted the LCA in too low a position. I just sort of guessed since corvettes, and dusters frames are so different. I did this without the car when it was snowing.
 

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These two photos show tire clearance, which later once everything is moved around is about 5".
 

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So with the LCA in the wrong position the ball joint reaches it's full travel and binds. Two remedies fix this problem. One raise the lower control arm about an inch. ( something that totally never crossed my mind. The next is creating the UCA mount straight up from the k frame to just inside, and down from the current Chrysler mount.
 

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The frame I built is sort of like having a jig that you can mount things to, and move things and tune things until you have a fluid motion. Her I moved the LCA up about 1.5", and it's created a bit of tire clearance. For the purpose of demonstrating what I'm talking about, I put a zip tie on a paint brush at about 5".
 

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Since I'm holding the brush between my fingers, there actually a fraction more clearance than what it looks like.
 

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This is about as far as the UCA can swing up, and if it did swing up this far the tire would bottom out on the inner fender.
 

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So I'm pretty certain I know at what point the suspension will bottom out, and with each revision the motion up and down becomes a bit more smooth, but I still think the UCA need to come in further.
 

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I think my Duster needs it's own personality.
 

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What everybody said I couldn't do.
 

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