Need help with bearing install

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Andre68

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Im new to bakes and having an issue installing my rotors to the spindles.

II put the bearings back into the rotor and began to tighten down the nut and then I started to spin it, it would go smooth and then rough like it was scraping the spindle or something like that. I tried different stuff but I felt like im missing something in this installation process?

Heres what I did...

removed front nut and bearing
took off rotor
removed inner bearing by turning it sideways and then pulling it out. I believe that may be an indicator of a problem right? I read that you need to remove the seal for the bearing to come off, this one just popped out by turning it sideways.
cleaned grease
redid suspension
grease spindle and rotor and bearings
pushed the inner bearing back in and it seemed to just push right through after it made it pass the seal.
installed got grinding noise like it sometimes scrapes up against the spindle

bearings seem fine, no missing bearings and they still spin freely.

I did read my manual but its for my 68 dart. I believe these disc brakes are from a 73 duster.
 

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Can you pull that bearing out of the rotor in your bottom pic? Race and bearing installed backwards?

Race goes in with the wider inner opening towards you.

When you put it together, last thing you install on backside is the seal.

Basic assembly is same for the front hubs on any of the A's
 
What car did you buy bearing for?

If you bought bearing for a 68-72 car, that's not going to work.
 
Yeah, you shouldn't be able to pull the bearing out with out popping the seal out first. We need more info first.

Were the 73 brakes complete when you bought them? Did you look closely at the bearings while they were out? They are cheap enough and replacing them along with the grease seals is good insurance.

You aren't trying to put these 73 rotors on your 68 spindles are you?
 
The whole front end was taken from a donor car 73+ I'm not trying to put it my 68 spindles because the whole front end is 73+

Yes I can just pull out the bearing by turning it sideways
 
Did you clean all of the old grease from inside the rotor?

I would pull them back apart, remove the seal on the back and replace.

Clean all old grease from bearings, races, inside rotor, ALL of it.

Inspect bearings and see if they rotate freely and smoothly without grease. Re-pack bearings (not just coat them with grease) . Inspect the races for rough spots. Assemble them and put in a new seal on the back, remember that seal is keeping dirt and moisture out of there.

Apply the proper bearing preload and adjust accordingly.
 
Yea that's what in going to do the bearing are what was on the car when it was bought.

The bearing do rotate freely. I did clean out all the old grease.

So just so I'm not confused. There is the race then the bearing and then the seal? How does the race come out? Is it attached to the seal?
 
Andre68 said:
So just so I'm not confused. There is the race then the bearing and then the seal? How does the race come out? Is it attached to the seal?
Click to expand...

The race is an interference fit, and needs to be carefully tapped out. No real need to remove it though unless it needs replaced. Just clean everything well, look at and feel the race with your finger to check for smoothness. Yes the race is seated in the rotor, then the bearing and then the seal.
 
You don't have a shop manual??

Here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970088617

However this does not cover the bearing adjustment procedure for the newer (73/ later) bearings. I know I posted this in another thread

Here's part of the late model (73/ later) service stuff

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=251266&highlight=brakes

Here's what the 74 manual says about adjusting the bearing nut. This is A CHANGE from older models

"Tighten adjusting nut to 240--300 inch pounds while rotating wheel. Stop rotation and back off nut, then FINGER tighten nut, install lock nut and cotter pin. This should result in a bearing end play of .001--.003" (although they don't say how, if, or why you would check that.)

The races are a press / drive fit into recesses in the hub. The usual way to get these out is with a drift punch and hammer, working from the opposite end of the hub.

One thing occurs...........

Years ago I had an inboard race wear itself a recess in the hub. In other words, you would drive the race in from the rear and it SEEMED tight, but when you got everything completely clean and dry, you could tell that the race, after being seated down in the hub, WOULD MOVE.

And yeh.........this caused strange steering/ braking noise and issues!!!!

The last thing is, I do not see HOW you can pull the bearing out of a seal like that without causing damage to the seal.

You are supposed to pull the seal, remove the bearing, and replace the seal (with a new one) AFTER repacking the bearing.

I know of no "approved" "guaranteed" procedure for pulling and reinstalling used seals.
 
I do have a shop manual, it's just for 68 though.

I guess that just straight up means that the seals are bad on both rotors because both bearings just popped out like that by turning then side ways and pulling. So I guess I'm just gonna remove the seal, clean it all out again install bearing and new seal
 
When you have it apart and have everything clean, put the bearing in the race, apply some downward pressure with your fingers on the inside race and turn it some to see if it feels smooth.

I'm betting that you got some grit in there (it doesn't take a whole lot) and that is why you felt what you did.

I just went through the brakes on my wife's Mercury Comet and the inside bearings popped out just like yours. I completely rebuilt everything and replaced those worn out seals.

How are you packing the bearings? You can't just coat them with grease you literally need to pack grease down into the rollers from the edge. I typically use a latex glove on my left hand and put a glob of grease in my palm and very slowly chip away at the grease with the edge of the outer ring of the bearing so that it forces grease up into the rollers. You would be surprised at how much grease you can actually get in there. Once it is packed I rotate it and put in a little more and then coat the outside all around.
 
Looks like you have wrong seal in it to start with. I can't tell from pics but I would think as everybody else wrong bearing. When you had bearings out did you wash all grease out of bearings and hub? Did you inspect the rollers real well before you repacked? Did you put the washer on before the nut? Also before you install the rotors need to be sure to spray brake clean on brake surface or the pads will be destroyed. I see I am real late to the party as usual.
 
When I first took it apart I did pressure wash the inside and cleaned the bearings and the inside of the rotor. I then cleaned dried them off with shop towels.

I don't believe it's the wrong bearings because I didn't buy any new ones, I simply just removed what was there and I cleaned then and I re greased them by putting grease the grease in my palm as rubbing it all over the bearing spindle and inside if rotor.

I think in gonna buy new seals and regrease everything and then give it a shot!
 
Check as I mentioned earlier and make sure the races have not worn a "loose place" down where they seat. You need to do this with the rotors and bearing completely clean and dry after you've installed the races.
 
From my previous post.

When you have it apart and have everything clean, put the bearing in the race, apply some downward pressure with your fingers on the inside race and turn it some to see if it feels smooth.
Click to expand...




Check everything dry before greasing and assembling. You can check the races in the hub and make sure they are tight.
 
Grab that seal with a pair of adjustable long handle pliers and lever it out. Put the top of the plier in upside down, grab a hold of the seal, and then push down. It doesn't matter if you tear it up as you'll be replacing it anyways.
 
Or try a claw hammer, or since you seem to have the bearing cone out, stick a drift punch through from the front side and give it a tap or two on the outside edge
 
cool sounds good I do have a chisel should I try that? I will also try with the pliers as well
 
There was a thread on this. Obviously, originally, there was a Chrysler special tool no. C-xxxxx

So use your head. You have some big sockets? If not go to the plumbing store with a new seal, and get a big pipe nipple, cap, or coupling that will span the seal

How 'bout wood bits, you have some large ones? or hole saws? You can cut a hole in a scrap of 2X4 to clear the seal extension.

On the other thread, one guy was going to try PVC pipe fittings. That might work, too.
 
Andre68 said:
Okay well I got the seals next question is... How do install them?
Click to expand...

I installed thousands of seals by tapping them in lightly with a hammer until they are flush with the rotor. Just use even taps and make sure it goes in straight. Oh, and make sure your bearing is in there before doing it!
 
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