Need help with ford 8.8 rear

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KevinB

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So I got this 8.8 from a member on this forum, and it was already chopped and rewelded for my 66 Dart. The pinion was not removed, but the carrier was when I got it. New bearings and seals have been installed.

The problem I'm having is when I go to put it back together. I got a shim kit that uses a couple of thick shims and several thin ones. No matter what I do with the shims, the same thing happens. When I tighten down the right side carrier cap, the carrier still spins. When I even get the left carrier cap snug, it locks up and the carrier won't turn at all. I'm assuming this is bad.

I have the feeling like the pinion isn't shimmed correctly and the ring gear is being pushed down into the pinion gear too much when I tighten the left side (which is the side with the ring gear on it).

Does that sound right? What else might be going on?
 
Are you sure the bearing caps are on correctly and on the correct side? If so, I would remove the pinion gear and tighten it down without it there to see what you get.
 
Are you sure the bearing caps are on correctly and on the correct side? If so, I would remove the pinion gear and tighten it down without it there to see what you get.


I looked up the proper orientation for the caps, when that didn't work I tried various combinations of swapping and spinning them around so I think I covered that aspect
 
I'm inclined to agree with Rob on this one.

When you set the carrier down in the housing with all the bearings/races/shims, it rotates freely without the caps installed? When you set the caps on, do you step torque the caps? Have you tried spinning the gears from the pinion? Does it turn with the required amount of preload? Is there anything binding the races that you can see? Have you tightened down the caps without the carrier to check for correct mating? Do you have and pictures of what you're describing? Are you trying to stack too many shims in the left side? (too little backlash)
 
Although this is a Ford rear axle, it might be better suited in the transmission/drivetrain section...
 
Thanks guys...

I did not torque down the caps with no carrier.
Without the caps the carrier and pinion do spin freely
I did not check the preload because I couldn't turn the pinion by hand at all
I tried multiple shim setups including leaving some out so there's a little slop
I am step torquing the bolts
 
Thanks guys...

I did not torque down the caps with no carrier.
Without the caps the carrier and pinion do spin freely
I did not check the preload because I couldn't turn the pinion by hand at all
I tried multiple shim setups including leaving some out so there's a little slop
I am step torquing the bolts

If you can't turn the pinion by hand it's natural to assume you won't be able to turn the carrier once bolted in. Sounds like someone screwed up the pinion bearing preload, and who knows about the depth since they screwed up the preload. If you have no experience in setting up differentials it's probably in your best interest to find someone that does to correct things and watch them to learn how it's done.
 
If you can't turn the pinion by hand it's natural to assume you won't be able to turn the carrier once bolted in. Sounds like someone screwed up the pinion bearing preload, and who knows about the depth since they screwed up the preload. If you have no experience in setting up differentials it's probably in your best interest to find someone that does to correct things and watch them to learn how it's done.


Well the pinion does turn by hand with the carrier installed, but just not when its bolted down on the ring side...Seeking a shop locally that's not gonna bend me over a barrel. My first quote was $385...then I get the guys that say "Well I need to look at it to give you a price"

Like I'm gonna load up and haul an entire rear end to your shop just so you can give me a quote!
 
If its not right, it will cost a heck of a lot more to try again. A reputable shop will provide a warranty that they don't expect you will need.
 
So I got this 8.8 from a member on this forum, and it was already chopped and rewelded for my 66 Dart. The pinion was not removed, but the carrier was when I got it. New bearings and seals have been installed.

The problem I'm having is when I go to put it back together. I got a shim kit that uses a couple of thick shims and several thin ones. No matter what I do with the shims, the same thing happens. When I tighten down the right side carrier cap, the carrier still spins. When I even get the left carrier cap snug, it locks up and the carrier won't turn at all. I'm assuming this is bad.

I have the feeling like the pinion isn't shimmed correctly and the ring gear is being pushed down into the pinion gear too much when I tighten the left side (which is the side with the ring gear on it).

Does that sound right? What else might be going on?

1- remove the carrier and get the pinion to turn freely -- back off the pinion nut and then tighten it just enough to remove any end play in the bearings and still have a slight turning drag on the bearings. but still turns freely
2- load your carrier into the housing --
3- your shim selection for the carrier determines the backlash and preload on the carrier bearings.
4- 8.8 carrier shims total thickness is in the .540-.550 range when preload and backlash are correct.
5- to start select a shim thickness of say .265 and place it on the right side bore ( opposite side from ring gear ) of the carrier.
6- now take a screw driver and pry against the left bearing race which forces the carrier against the right side shim pack -- check to see if you have any backlash in the gears -- if no backlash increase the thickness of the right shim pack say in .005 increments ,if to much backlash remove shim-- then repeat the above step.--- try for .010 backlash initially.
7- once you have backlash -- measure up a shim pack for the left side which will give you a total shim pack figure as stated above -- say you have right side shim of .265 thickness,,, install a shim totalling .275 on the left -- making sure you still have backlash in the gears .
8- install your bearing caps -- arrows on the caps face to the outside of the housing when oriented properly --- < left side -- > right side. snug them down to 50 ft/lbs
9 - check to make sure you have a backlash of .008 -.010 -- if not you will have to adjust your shim selection -- remove or add shim to decrease or increase backlash in steps of say .005 -- usually what ever you remove from one side add to the opposite side.
10 -- now time to do a pattern check on you gears -- paint 4 teeth with gear checking compound and rotate the assembly-- this determines if your pinion shim selection is correct -- if the pattern checks out -- disassemble everything keeping track of your carrier shims to install them back on the correct sides -- set you pinion bearing preload 20-25 in/lbs for new bearings 8-15 in/lbs for used bearings --- reinstall your carrier and torque the caps to 80-85 ft/lbs
11 -- one other thing the carrier should have to be pried out of the housing when correctly installed with the right amount of preload on the bearings .-- they have come to me for repair from shops that should know better and literally fall out of the housing--sad

it can be tedious but you want the gear to live so a correct set up is necessary. close does not count .
 
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