need insight to a-bodies

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After reading this thread, and learning allot.:read2:
I would like to thank Brian for coming here and updating us on his
new rack systems he is developing.:-D Thanks Brian.:cheers:
There are some great builders and tec's here for you and
unisteer performance ,8)
 
The real challenge or goal in A-body rack and pinion should be to make sure the application doesn't interfere with any of 5 or 6 different brands of headers already marketed. I say this because I think most who would want R&P steering in an A-body have already fought that header battle (I've been wrong before).
Afterwards a header mfgr may offer a better looking and better functioning left side header to go with your R&P.
All those posts about idler arms and their mounting to K-frames are irelevant since R&P doesn't require an idler arm.
My question is will this be rear steer like OEM or front steer similar to whats seen in another thread ?
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=12203&highlight=Rack+Pinion+Converison
 
Our pumps are the small TC pumps used by companies like Zoops, March, and Billet. Actually we supply them with their pumps. The pulleys we use are not utilize a keyway. The pulleys require an installer to put them on, which we do before we ship them. We do offer three different pulleys, a single, double v-belt, and a serpentine belt.

We are always looking down the road at future cars; who knows maybe someday the early street rodding mopars will get some attention.

Redfish states a very good point; headers are a real pain in the butt. If we all added just headers to our cars and nothing else life would be easy, but that is not the case. Most of us car folks like are cars to be reliable and safe. Adding better brakes, and improving steering and suspension systems built to todays technology is a good way to do just that. When we do a rack and pinion conversion kit to a car we always do research to the most popular header used on that car. In all Mopar cases it has been TTI headers that has been the header of choice. Howerver other headers might work, but I have seen engine mounts make headers not work. I guess that's why they call it car crafting?!

Brian
 
i made my own rack and pinion steering on my 73.but would love to buy a engineered setup for my daily cruiser.heres a couple shots of my steering

jeremys pictures 001.jpg


jeremys pictures 005.jpg


jeremys pictures 006.jpg


jeremys pictures 003.jpg
 
It looks like you put a front steer rack and pinion in a rear steer car, is this true? If so how do you plan on correcting the akerman angle? I am not trying to discourge creativity, but have you driven this car yet? It appears your tie rods are taking a dramatic angle to the spindles. By your pictures I would deduct the car will bump steer, and be easily oversteered. I would need to see more pictures to know for sure.

Brian
 
i drive the car on the street and drag race it.i've had it up to 120mph.probably driven it 2000 miles last summer.and raced it several times.it drives ok.i have not noticed any bump steer.it never feels out of control.i can back up without tire angles changeing.the tires do not move in at the top when bounced.it has been aligned an seems to drive ok.i am pleased with the front steer setup.it does what i need and made for a lot more engine compartment room.and it only cost me $100 dollars to do.but would like to have a engineered setup for my other car.but would rather have a front steer so i can run a truck rear sump oil pan.and the fact that header clearance would be obsolete.right now the steering runs through the headers on factory rear steer.pain in the butt.this is the 73 duster the steering is in racing against a friends 74 nova.

100_0522.jpg
 
I asked how it drove because you used a mustang II type rack in that car which has a 24" ball center. I know from measuring the cars the ball center is a lot less than that. I don't recall off the top of my head, but I know it wasn't 24". I can tell you our kits will be designed around the factory geometry leaving the rack as a rear steer setup.

Brian
 
actually the rack is out of a 89 2wd dodge dakota with manual steering.i have had good luck with it.but it would be nice if your setup would include eliminating the torsion bars and going to coil over shocks with tubular k member.or what exactly is i going to be like.i am not familar with your product but am eager to see it when completed.i have seen alterkation kits.is it anything similar.
thanks
jeremy
 
unisteer said:
Our pumps are the small TC pumps used by companies like Zoops, March, and Billet. Actually we supply them with their pumps. The pulleys we use are not utilize a keyway. The pulleys require an installer to put them on, which we do before we ship them. We do offer three different pulleys, a single, double v-belt, and a serpentine belt.

When we do a rack and pinion conversion kit to a car we always do research to the most popular header used on that car. In all Mopar cases it has been TTI headers that has been the header of choice. Howerver other headers might work, but I have seen engine mounts make headers not work. I guess that's why they call it car crafting?!

Brian
Click to expand...

Thanks for the clarification on the pump.

That's very surprising to here TTI's are the header of choice considering they cost $700 and a set of Hookers only cost $160. I know the TTI's are prefered because they don't hang low like the Hookers but I've seen so many posts by guys like me just can't justify spending $700 on a set of headers when $160 does the job fine. When I go to car shows I usually only see about 1 out of every 10 Mopars running TTI's. Just to see what the response is from owners you might take a poll on the header type to see what the A-body guys actually run most.

Thanks, Tracy
 
Brian,

I would think that being able to change the "queer steer" set up to a front steer rack and pinion would serve well in many aspects. First and foremost it would make the use of aftermarket accessories much easier to do. It would also correct the "limited" steering geometry that was engineered into the rear steer set ups. It would "eliminate" bump steer. There are probably other advantages that I am forgetting at the moment.

I have spoken with NASCAR engineers on this very subject, and they agree that the front steer set up is, indeed the way to go.

I would be happy to volunteer my 71 Demon as an R&D test car!
 
BRIAN,, im glad to see your company having intrest in mopars,and then in A bodies,,,thanks for your time,,,

question while you are still here reading all of our coments,,i have a 1940 dodge street rod also,along with my 66 barracuda,, my 40 dodge has the orignal IFS,., using a rack kit from fat man fab,,the rack is a center steer,,it is from a 1989 -92 chevy cavalier power rack,, i thing you have some sort of center rack unit ?? this thing is way to sensitive, it uses the mini GM, pump,that so many custom and rodders are using,,i have put shims in to slow down the flow of fluid,,it only seems to make a difference at idle,, once i step on the gas, the steering is over easy,, i have talked with guys using the same rack with a mopar style pump,, and they dont seem to have the same feel i do,, some do some dont,, do you have any suggestions?? or do you have a rack that will mount in the same style that is maybe less sensitive ???
im highly considering going to a manual rack,,,thanks don
 
First I will answer the fornt steer vs rear steer statement. Yes going to a front steer setup give more clearance for headers and other components. However Unisteer Performance has always made kits that bolt in to the factory setup using exsisting holes. Our kits require no welding, or cutting to install. There are companies such as Magnum Force that does nice front steer setups, but at what $cost$. Our kits are a lot more wallet friendly and easier to install. Not bashing anyone just stating facts. I have installed Mustang type setups into cars, let me tell you it requires a lot of work.

Anyhow onto fstfish66. You were really close to the problem; it is the pump, but not the pressure it is the flow. All the shims do is reduce the pressure. If you want to fix the problem send me a private message and I will work with you on getting me the pump so I can set it for your rack.

Brian
 
There are companies such as Magnum Force that does nice front steer setups, but at what $cost$.
Click to expand...

magnum force and nice do not go together....


i don't want to start problems or anything but i saw a few guys on another board a few months ago that had a ton of problems with your set up.. alignment issues and i think fitment issues.. have these been addressed and corrected?
 
I have to agree fishy68. I know there are a few guys runnings TTI's but I think Hookers are more popular in A Bodies than TTI's. Among others like E Bodies TTI's I would say are more common. TTI's are not wallet friendly! LOL!!!
 
i see an alot of a-bodies in this area running tti's.. mine were $500.. i thought it was too much until i put them on... the fit and quality is definatley worth it if you ask me. won't ever buy another set of hookers or headmans for a street car..
 
When I say Mustang kit, I mean setups that require "adapting" a Mustang II suspension to the front of a Mopar. Yes our manual Mustang kits for the Mustang are around $900, but what you don't know about that kit is you are limited on headers and engine size really. This is why we have recently redesigned the Mustang manual kits and have also come out with the power Mustang kit. The power kit for the Mustang is $1599, which is "PROBABLY" what the power Mopar kit will cost. The manual kit (if we can convince the engineers) will "PROBABLY" be in the $1000-$1150 range. To early to tell; we need to wait until the R&D, costing and internal time studies are done. So please don't hold me to these prices.

When it comes to the headers, we call a few different header distributors like Summit, Jegs, and so on. We take their info and make our decision on what to use. Don't blame me, it's your A-Body brothern buying the headers; LOL.

I knew our past mistakes would come back to haunt us. Yes we make mistakes on the B&E body cars, yes the were fitment issues, yes they alighnment issues. The problem was the notes taken during the R&D were at best marginal. We made the B-Bodies correct, then made the E-Bodies correct and some how messed up the B-Bodies while making the E-Bodies. We have went back to "everyone" that had an issue and made it right. There was only one guy we could not figure out and I am not convinced his car was stock as he proclaimed. I guess you can't please everyone. Boy that hurt.

I am on other forums promoting other products, and I have to say, you guys are the best to interact with. Thank You.

Brian
 
Yeah, it's a great bunch of guys on this site. Everyone has a completely different knowledge set, but all come together when someone needs a hand. You've definitely come to the right site if you want to ask questions about A-bodies.
 
unisteer said:
The power kit for the Mustang is $1599, which is "PROBABLY" what the power Mopar kit will cost. The manual kit (if we can convince the engineers) will "PROBABLY" be in the $1000-$1150 range. To early to tell; we need to wait until the R&D, costing and internal time studies are done. So please don't hold me to these prices.
Brian
Click to expand...

According to page 11 your 2008 catalog which can be downloaded here http://www.unisteer.com/help/index.php?_m=downloads&_a=viewdownload&downloaditemid=41 the price for a power kit is $1199 or $1299 (chrome big block). Based on your catalog and magazine ads I figured these were already in production and could be ordered today as I have been considering.

I am very interested in knowing if there would be any issue in fitting one in a car with a newer 5.7 Hemi since you can only use a manual factory gearbox when installing this engine in an a-body. I would really prefer power steering and would love to be able to use the factory steering pump on the 05 truck engine I am installing. Is this a possibility? How soon will these units actually be available to purchase? Any chance I could get one to test fit with this engine in my Duster=P~?
 
To be honest we jumped the gun on putting the A-Bodies in the catalog. Also once we got started we realized the rack was going to take much more work and components to produce than the B & E Bodies. This is the reason for the difference in cost and delay in release.

My apologize to all.

Brian
 
Has anyone used one of these ? I just installed one in a customers 71 Cuda, It went in pretty easy however theres a few things I didnt like.

1 the hoses for the power steering pump were both to short.

2. The 2 U joints causes a ton of slop in the steering shaft that the bushing in the bottom of the column cant take up. With the factory box the shaft is pretty much held in place. Add the U joints and the shaft can move back and forth, about an inch of play which causes the column to bind up. I heim joint to hold the shaft in place will solve this. I feel it should be included in the kit.

3, They give you a clamp for the column. The instructions show it at the end of the column tube just past the fire wall. I have no idea what its purpose is supposed to be. It does nothing.

4. Headers. Hooker super comps dont fit. They say to use TTIs or stock manifolds. I like the 440 1-7/8" tubed TTIs but the customer wasnt happy to learn he needed to spend another $700+ for headers plus pay me to R&R the old ones.

In all honesty between the coin he spent on the rack, new ball joints, bushings, shocks ect, header and labor he probably could have put in an alter-K-tion set up and have been done with it about a month ago.
 
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