Need to make a decision fast 5.7/6.1/340

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It depends on what you start with as far as which Gen III. An old truck 5.7 is gonna need more massaging get 450-500hp than a 6.1. Find some Eagle heads and get them cnc'd and swap to some "good" pistons as well as a .600 lift cam with 230-240 @.050 and things get real nasty power wise in the Gen III world. Also jrlegacy dont leave out the part that you're using a HemiDenny K member no? That changes things with the manifolds I think.
 
Ok so ive decided im going 5.7 or 6.1. Now what year and style motor should i be lokking for? Are the vvt better performance or should i go later than 09? If someone could please share a complete shopping list of swap parts that would be awesome. Then i know im not forgetting anything. Its time to start buying :twisted:
 
abodyjoe said:
more potential? guess that all depends what you want in the end...
Click to expand...

I guess what I was getting at is that I think the modern hemis can be built to much higher power levels and retain very driveable manners for less cost. The stock heads flow something like 285/185 intake/exhaust right out of the box. It takes an aftermarket or heavily worked LA head to get anywhere close to that. Then do that same work to the Hemi head and you're way over anything an old small block can do. Driveability may be mostly based on fuel system of choice (EFI or carb), but typically the small blocks take a lot of rpm to get the same kind of numbers as well, which is usually harder on parts. Not saying it can't get there, just that it sure seems a lot easier to get there with modern technology and design.
 
Yes, I am running the HDK, but that manifolds are still the same ones you want.

The LX manifolds will clear the drivers side, but hit the frame by about an inch on the passengers side so you would need to notch the frame for clearance.

The truck manifolds dump into the firewall
 
jrlegacy23 said:
Yes, I am running the HDK, but that manifolds are still the same ones you want.

The LX manifolds will clear the drivers side, but hit the frame by about an inch on the passengers side so you would need to notch the frame for clearance.

The truck manifolds dump into the firewall
Click to expand...

So with your manifolds, it is still possible to route exhaust to them with torsion bars? If so, AWESOME!
 
72BBSwinger said:
So with your manifolds, it is still possible to route exhaust to them with torsion bars? If so, AWESOME!
Click to expand...

I have not test fitted that, but that is what I gathered from other builds that I have been following. I have a set of LX and a set of Jeep, the jeep ones seem to flow down more and look to be no issues with the stock K and torsion bars. Johnparts did a test fit in his build before swapping to an HDK.
Here is a link to the thread about exhaust manifolds:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=117849
 
MoparOrNokar
HammerTime

Join Date: Aug 2014
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Ok so ive decided im going 5.7 or 6.1. Now what year and style motor should i be lokking for? Are the vvt better performance or should i go later than 09? If someone could please share a complete shopping list of swap parts that would be awesome. Then i know im not forgetting anything. Its time to start buying
 
1972DusterPaul said:
Four steps...
Pull 360.
Rebuild 360.
Drop 360 back in.
Drive Duster.

Doesn't get any easier or simpler than that.
Paul
Click to expand...

Best post yet. No need to get stupid huffin a new hemi; too much work, not enough return on investment. The cost of a new hemi buys a lot of gas. Tons of time reworking everything but the fenders.

But since most people only acknowledge what I have to say when it's what they want to hear, I'll let this be a silent reminder anyway.
 
PoisonDart74 said:
Best post yet. No need to get stupid huffin a new hemi; too much work, not enough return on investment. The cost of a new hemi buys a lot of gas. Tons of time reworking everything but the fenders.

But since most people only acknowledge what I have to say when it's what they want to hear, I'll let this be a silent reminder anyway.
Click to expand...


Because i know i cant pull the 360 and rebuild it and only spend $3-5k. I will end up $15k into it and not ready for next summer lol. I like the cool factor of having the modern motor with efi.
 
Nutters in Washington. 475HP on the dyno (only cam/spring change on stock 5.7, and utilizing their Hemitronix injection). 3200# car, no OD, 21mpg on the freeway.

I can't remember who it was here, but someone posted they're turning 3500rpm at 65mph, and puling 21mpg. My truck (granted, has OD) weighs 5400# and gets 20+ at 65-75mph...
 
Can't run your power steering with the modern Hemi's and a stock K-member w/ torsion bars. I went with a EFI swap and a 5.9 Magnum to avoid having to buy an Alterkation or similar front suspension. I like my Firm Feel power steering.

The fuel system needs to be well thought out, or you will always have to keep the tank half full or better. There are several cool ways to go without buying a $1500 fuel tank, but a nice higher capacity fuel tank with the right parts added to it can be very nice when combined with the rest of a well thought out system. I've been seeing guys coming out with a lot of cool ways to pull this off.

The computer and wiring I used on my 5.9 will also be reflashed to control my 408" Eddie headed motor. It's out of a '98 Dodge with a 5 speed 5.9 Magnum truck, had been reprogrammed and can now be continually reflashed with an SCT Tuner and a wideband. My Hotwire harness hooks up with 4 wires inside the engine compartment. It doesn't get much easier. Plug & play.

I am also going with a non-computer controlled OD transmission at this point. I started out with a 727 and 3.23 gears, but ultimately wanted lower gears and an overdrive with a lock-up converter that didn't suck a lot of power to spin. I did have to notch and do some mild fabrication to the torsion bar crossmember on the Driver's side, and make a rear transmission mount. It's fairly easy and straightforward, but like anything, it takes time and work.

Even rebuilding the entire transmission tunnel and fabricating a strong enough connection for most of the tunnel portion of the torsion bar crossmember you will have to cut out for almost all other overdrives is not that big of a deal for an experienced fabricator, but it is more noticeable inside the car in many cases, and a lot of people don't want to cut on their cars. I get that, but when they are rusted and repaired, what's the difference? I was lucky I started out with a rust free car.

Building a stroked 5.9 Magnum and a strong trans was not cheap. If I spent that money on a 6.1, I would have had other costs to install it, but it would be much more powerful than a 408" Magnum.

It all comes down to time and money. How fast do you want to go, how far do you drive the car on road trips and how often do you use it? I can tell you EFI is sweet! I'll have to let you know about the 408 and the lock-up OD trans & lower gears, as I'm still tinkering on that to get them up and running.

Think it through first and choose wisely to match what you want to do with the car.
 

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Lots of mis-information in this thread. jrlegacy23, I'm talking to you.

-Jeep srt8 manifolds do NOT work with any factory steering box (if motor in factory location), but do work with some modification if using a rack and pinion.
-Jeep 5.7 manifolds DO work with manual steering.
-Nothing factory or aftermarket works with factory power steering (I built a set of shorty headers that do however that are now for sale).
-LX 03-08 5.7 manifolds do work with manual steering but require clearancing the passenger frame rail (Gdemon's build).
-Challenger 09+ 5.7 eagle manifolds do NOT work with manual steering

Unknowns that might work: 09+ 5.7 LX Manifolds, 09+ 5.7 jeep manifolds

Also, TTI makes a set of headers specifically for the borgeson power steering box. They fit. It is tight.


Regarding fuel system:
Carter 4600HP $115
BC Bronco's fuel accumulator - $70
Walbro GSL392 $110
Wix. 33737 - $40
Fittings, etc - $100
Cheapest EFI fuel system that will handle 600 hp



There are a lot of builds posted in this section. I recommend reading them, especially those that are stickies. Lots of good information and options.
 
Thanks for clearing that up, I was not aware of the power steering issue as the power/manual steering thing did not cross my mind.. But honestly, not a big fan of you calling me out by name saying Lots lot of mis-information when my only mistake was I did not know that jeep manifolds did not work with power steering, but I understand.
Besides that, thank you for the good information.

Uhcoog1 said:
Lots of mis-information in this thread. jrlegacy23, I'm talking to you.

-Jeep srt8 manifolds do NOT work with any factory steering box (if motor in factory location), but do work with some modification if using a rack and pinion.
-Jeep 5.7 manifolds DO work with manual steering.
-Nothing factory or aftermarket works with factory power steering (I built a set of shorty headers that do however that are now for sale).
-LX 03-08 5.7 manifolds do work with manual steering but require clearancing the passenger frame rail (Gdemon's build).
-Challenger 09+ 5.7 eagle manifolds do NOT work with manual steering

Unknowns that might work: 09+ 5.7 LX Manifolds, 09+ 5.7 jeep manifolds

Also, TTI makes a set of headers specifically for the borgeson power steering box. They fit. It is tight.


Regarding fuel system:
Carter 4600HP $115
BC Bronco's fuel accumulator - $70
Walbro GSL392 $110
Wix. 33737 - $40
Fittings, etc - $100
Cheapest EFI fuel system that will handle 600 hp



There are a lot of builds posted in this section. I recommend reading them, especially those that are stickies. Lots of good information and options.
Click to expand...
 
Sorry for the offense, jr. Wasn't meaning to be rude - just wanted future readers to know specifically which posts I was referring to, so to keep them from buying parts that don't fit.
 
MoparOrNokar said:
MoparOrNokar
HammerTime

Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Flint, Michigan
Posts: 11
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Ok so ive decided im going 5.7 or 6.1. Now what year and style motor should i be lokking for? Are the vvt better performance or should i go later than 09? If someone could please share a complete shopping list of swap parts that would be awesome. Then i know im not forgetting anything. Its time to start buying
Click to expand...

Do a quick search, or look around for a few minutes, there are so many "what parts?" Threads here it's crazy. There are many avenues you can chose for engine management, exhaust, and fuel systems, (especially if you're considering a VVT motor) and so many other other variables including budget and skill level. You gotta do some reading and figure out what is gonna work best for you. Not trying to be rude by saying so, FABO is literally the best info for these swaps, and it's all been covered...

That being said, it's worth the work, these motors are screamers...
 
Regarding fuel system:
Carter 4600HP $115
BC Bronco's fuel accumulator - $70
Walbro GSL392 $110
Wix. 33737 - $40
Fittings, etc - $100
Cheapest EFI fuel system that will handle 600 hp
Click to expand...

Carter 4600HP is the pump? What does the fuel accumulator do? And what is the Walbro GSL392?

Is it only the A-body that nothing works with power steering? I thought I saw a set of TTI's that said they'd work with PS, but that might have been for B-body...

Sorry. Wasn't trying to hi-jack...
 
I used to get 12-14 mpg hwy driving from my iron head 318/392 with 3.9 gears , 3400 stall, 727 and [email protected] flat tappet at 3000 rpm on the state limit. Motor used to make about 420 hp.

..move fwd 18 months - same car, exhaust, gears, trans, converter, 6.1 hemi, [email protected] roller cam, carb induction.....appx 450 hp

21 mpg hwy driving tested in March this year over 280 mile run at same cruise rpm on the same hwy
 
Fuel system as described:

null_zps368b6916.jpg


Only A body has trouble with power steering.
 
jrlegacy23 said:
Yes, I am running the HDK, but that manifolds are still the same ones you want.

The LX manifolds will clear the drivers side, but hit the frame by about an inch on the passengers side so you would need to notch the frame for clearance.

The truck manifolds dump into the firewall
Click to expand...

Will those manifolds fit facing forward by swapping sides? Just wondering for a Single or Twin Turbo install.
 
MoparOrNokar said:
Because i know i cant pull the 360 and rebuild it and only spend $3-5k. I will end up $15k into it and not ready for next summer lol. I like the cool factor of having the modern motor with efi.
Click to expand...

Bullsh*t, you can do it for under a grand. Do a Magnum swap if you want EFI. Still about a grand. The way your talking about dropping ridiculous coin on projects, your gonna have a hard time with a hemi swap, and you damn sure aren't gonna be done by next summer. Keeping it real homie. Every other response is head in the clouds time. I'll be that guy.
 
Mad Dart said:
Will those manifolds fit facing forward by swapping sides? Just wondering for a Single or Twin Turbo install.
Click to expand...

I have spare LX manifolds. If you want to try those, I will send them to you; just pay shipping. I would think the jeep ones are too long. If you are mounting them upside down, a set of shorty truck headers may be ideal, but I don't actually know.
 
You guys keep talking about a high dollar fuel system...... Here you go 1 GSL-392 and a Mallory 4305-M Regulator. The pump is $95.00 and the Regulator is about $115.00 and that pump is good for more power that most can afford to make. The regulator is also Boost Ready if you ever get there.

The GSL-392 is an external mounted pump and it will lift fuel up to 5 feet so no worry about keeping your tank 1/2 full! Lol

Sump your tank and add a 8an Return. You can see how I did mine in my scamp thread. I used the lower pressure regulator 4307-M and the same pump but I have a carb.

[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mallory-4305M-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Black-Anodized-30-100-psi-Universal-Each-/191268123514?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c8877f37a&vxp=mtr"]Mallory 4305M Fuel Pressure Regulator Black Anodized 30 100 PSI Universal Each | eBay[/ame]

[ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walbro-GSL392-255LPH-Universal-Inline-External-High-Pressure-Fuel-Pump-Complete-/171155381796?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d9a7de24&vxp=mtr"]Walbro GSL392 255LPH Universal Inline External High Pressure Fuel Pump Complete | eBay[/ame]
 
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