need trans help! completely lost on this one.

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You can order all that stuff through Aamco, or most trans shops.
In my honest oppinion, you should have it done by someone who knows what they are doing.
Make sure that if you use the same convertor that it is flushed with a flush machine and that the cooler lines are also flushed well in BOTH directions.
Get kevlar bands and a bouble wrap rear band.
Ask about a five clutch direct drum, I used to make them out of a four clutch by lathing down the edges of the plate that the retainer ring goes over.(the thick one, but can't remember the name of it right now) and beveling the inside of it so the other drum does not rub against it do to the extra thickness of the clutchpack.
I don't know if the current builders out there will do these mods for you, or if they even know how.
D rings, not steel for your 1-2 servo that you want blocked up in it's bore and the spring tossed.
And a front seal with loctite and a retainer BOTH. (If they won't loctite it, then retainer for sure)
You won't want to pull it again because the front seal popped out.
 
805moparkid said:
i would stay away from TCI first off..
Click to expand...

Why stay away from the TCI stuff??
I used a TCI kit in a 727 in a 79 Dodge Power Wagon 4x4 mud drag truck with a 550 hp 440 that I built for a friend. The truck would roast all 4 tires on the road and held up 4-5 races a year plus daily driving for 6 years until the day he sold it (to help build his 71 Cuda)...after that I don't know.
 
i hope you hooked up the kickdowm linkage when you changed to a 4bbl if not this will fry your tranny
 
You built it, not TCI.
Parts are pretty much all same except if you get upgraded stuff.
TCI's problems are with thier builders lack of ability or management not allowing the builders to do it right every time.
Pretty much everthing I've seen posted about them that the end result was explained was because of a shortcut or inexperience.
Then they screw ya on the warantee somehow by blaming it on something like not using thier own in house converter.




64 SRT8 Dart said:
Why stay away from the TCI stuff??
I used a TCI kit in a 727 in a 79 Dodge Power Wagon 4x4 mud drag truck with a 550 hp 440 that I built for a friend. The truck would roast all 4 tires on the road and held up 4-5 races a year plus daily driving for 6 years until the day he sold it (to help build his 71 Cuda)...after that I don't know.
Click to expand...
 
jimjimjimmy said:
i hope you hooked up the kickdowm linkage when you changed to a 4bbl if not this will fry your tranny
Click to expand...
How can that fry a Tranny? Not trying to argue, Just want to understand? I mean if you don't step down hard, you're not going to invoke the kickdown anyway,right?
 
know too much for your age.
You must have been a car guy in past life.
I like it that you have put this much into knowing what you do.

You are one of the people on the list for a TV reality show that the guys or girls, na both, RV around the country helping diag other peoples Mopar hotrods deficiencies.
You know, the guy that has too much money that does'nt know crap about it.
Mopars only.

Now, for a name?







805moparkid said:
i would stay away from TCI first off...

all the trans-go stuff is good...

if you have a stock to mild motor and dont plan on racing it you can get away with stock clutches and bands...

the real key to a long life is the clearances....
Click to expand...
 
If you don't hook up the kickdown cable then the trans thinks it's alway under a low load and backs off on the mainline pressure of the fluid that holds the bands and clutchpacks in place when they are needed.
Low pressure= slip under a load like gettin on it a little and the trans thinks you are just idling around.
End result is fry the bands and clutches.
The kickdown cable (or TV cable) is called "TV cable" for this reason.
Throttle Valve cable.



OwdKasd said:
How can that fry a Tranny? Not trying to argue, Just want to understand? I mean if you don't step down hard, you're not going to invoke the kickdown anyway,right?
Click to expand...
 
OwdKasd said:
How can that fry a Tranny? Not trying to argue, Just want to understand? I mean if you don't step down hard, you're not going to invoke the kickdown anyway,right?
Click to expand...

"Kickdown" linkage is a misnomer for that linkage, although if you have it installed and adjusted properly, it WILL cause a downshift ("kickdown") if one is within proper rpm limits.

But, that linkage's main function is to tell the transmission how much throttle you are applying at any given moment, so that automated adjustments can be made by the transmission, to the the main line pressure that applies the bands and clutches, ensuring that there will always be appropriate (enough) holding ability to handle the torque the engine is putting out at that throttle setting, without slipping. It also regulates the speed at which the upshifts occur, so that you get the best possible performance.

"Kickdown" is the least of what it does.

It is more properly called a "throttle pressure rod" and is critical to correct and effective transmission operation. If it's NOT installed at all, the transmission will never know you're applying any throttle beyond an idle, and won't increase pressures internally to deal with the added torque your engine is making.

A slipping clutch pack or band, or both, that is the direct result of this, will end up in a creating a burned-up transmission in short order. And, it's in no way the fault of the transmission.

Hope this helps!:hello2:
 
Guess we were typing at the same time Bill.:D

Bill Dedman said:
"Kickdown" linkage is a misnomer for that linkage, although if you have it installed and adjusted properly, it WILL cause a downshift ("kickdown") if one is within proper rpm limits.

But, that linkage's main function is to tell the transmission how much throttle you are applying at any given moment, so that automated adjustments can be made by the transmission, to the the main line pressure that applies the bands and clutches, ensuring that there will always be appropriate (enough) holding ability to handle the torque the engine is putting out at that throttle setting, without slipping. It also regulates the speed at which the upshifts occur, so that you get the best possible performance.

"Kickdown" is the least of what it does.

It is more properly called a "throttle pressure rod" and is critical to correct and effective transmission operation. If it's NOT installed at all, the transmission will never know you're applying any throttle beyond an idle, and won't increase pressures internally to deal with the added torque your engine is making.

A slipping clutch pack or band, or both, that is the direct result of this will end up in a creating a burned-up transmission in short order. And, it's in no way the fault of the transmission.

Hope this help[s!:hello2:
Click to expand...
 
TrailBeast said:
If you don't hook up the kickdown cable then the trans thinks it's alway under a low load and backs off on the mainline pressure of the fluid that holds the bands and clutchpacks in place when they are needed.
Low pressure= slip under a load like gettin on it a little and the trans thinks you are just idling around.
End result is fry the bands and clutches.
The kickdown cable (or TV cable) is called "TV cable" for this reason.
Throttle Valve cable.
Click to expand...
I think there is No Cable on mine, just a rod. with a slot. Going to check right now.
 
TrailBeast said:
know too much for your age.
You must have been a car guy in past life.
I like it that you have put this much into knowing what you do.

You are one of the people on the list for a TV reality show that the guys or girls, na both, RV around the country helping diag other peoples Mopar hotrods deficiencies.
You know, the guy that has too much money that does'nt know crap about it.
Mopars only.

Now, for a name?
Click to expand...

lol "you talkin to me??"

:hello2:
 
TrailBeast said:
You built it, not TCI.
Parts are pretty much all same except if you get upgraded stuff.
TCI's problems are with thier builders lack of ability or management not allowing the builders to do it right every time.
Pretty much everthing I've seen posted about them that the end result was explained was because of a shortcut or inexperience.
Then they screw ya on the warantee somehow by blaming it on something like not using thier own in house converter.
Click to expand...

Oh, okay, I see. Yeah, definitely I understand and agree with that.
 
When I was the age you are now I owned a factory condition metalic gold with the tan vynl roof 1969 Roadrunner with a 440 inteceptor motor.
The exact colors and everything just like thier 1969 commercial here.
Bought it and put the 440 in it even though it still had the 383 Magnum emblem louvers in the hood.

It was the car that the roadrunner door checks the coyote with.
And it's horn actually sounded like the cartoon roadrunner and I had it down "Meep,Meep" on the button.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nhf54rs4ze8"]1969 Plymouth & Roadrunner Commercial - YouTube[/ame]


805moparkid said:
lol thx! i was the kid in English reading my newly acquired 1965 Plymouth Factory Service manual instead of Shakespeare! LOL
Click to expand...
 
TrailBeast said:
When I was the age you are now I owned a factory condition metalic gold with the tan vynl roof 1969 Roadrunner with a 440 inteceptor motor.
The exact colors and everything just like thier 1969 commercial here.
Bought it and put the 440 in it even though it still had the 383 Magnum emblem louvers in the hood.

It was the car that the roadrunner door checks the coyote with.
And it's horn actually sounded like the cartoon roadrunner and I had it down "Meep,Meep" on the button.

1969 Plymouth & Roadrunner Commercial - YouTube
Click to expand...

to cool! my first was my 65 plymouth... now its an AFX
 
sooooo i should go with a full rebuild kit, i recently talked to someone and they're input was, the fact that the car sat so long before being active the internal seals are leaking....so should i just grab a seal replacement kit? honestly it does make a little sense seeing as how it drives perfectly fine until it warms up
 
tjgp360 said:
sooooo i should go with a full rebuild kit, i recently talked to someone and they're input was, the fact that the car sat so long before being active the internal seals are leaking....so should i just grab a seal replacement kit? honestly it does make a little sense seeing as how it drives perfectly fine until it warms up
Click to expand...

Have you dropped the pan to see how much metal was in it like someone recommended earlier? It's hard to guess anything without tearing into it. My guess is most likely it needs completely gone through but again without properly diagnosing it (dropping the pan as a minimum) there's no man alive that can guess the problem based on a question. As for driving right until it's warmed up, that happens a lot and means very little. Clutch packs generally work fine up to the point of being so worn they won't engage anymore. You might be able to put seals in it and make it work, but it won't last nearly as long as it would if the frictions were replaced. If you have it apart already it's no more work and only costs a little more to do a complete rebuild.
 
cool so full rebuild it is, im kinda tired of trying to diagnose it im just about to go through with the build, now i need a nice kit, so trans go is the one to go with?
 
Actually trans-go doesn't make rebuild kits that I know of. They only make shift improver kits. I generally buy my parts from www.bulkpart.com but the only problem with their kits is their not complete. You also need to by a bushing kit, thrust washer kit, filter, and possibly band(s) separately but they are so much cheaper it's generally worth it. Note that a lot of other kits aren't complete either. You have to check them carefully to make sure your getting everything you need. As for staying away from TCI, their kits are ok, it's their transmissions you want to be weary of cause their quality control is severely lacking.
 
See if you have a Trans-Star dealer nearby, they'll have everything you need. If not, find out where your local tranny shop gets their parts. Check with 4 or 5, and go with whatever outfit gets used the most. Since ther'll always be some little doodad that wasn't included in the kit, it's a major timesaver to be able to get the parts locally.
I'd never rebuilt a tranny before last summer, and couldn't believe how easy it was. $600-$800 my eye! I'll keep that in my pocket.
 
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