new 408 build..

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well.. for a 1 time job and never using it again i will be going a touch cheaper :)
if it's not accurate you loose without knowing it

most of the un named china stuff is horribly not accurate

we rejected a lot of it, then would offer the above choices

customers would be so bummed to waste $65, and still have to spend the $150-200 anyways
 
if it's not accurate you loose without knowing it

most of the un named china stuff is horribly not accurate

we rejected a lot of it, then would offer the above choices

customers would be so bummed to waste $65, and still have to spend the $150-200 anyways

well.. plastigauge it is :) screw it
 
soo... not great... highest clearance looks just over #3 and 5 at .002.. #1 is like .0015... my mics went to **** from sitting for 20 years.. rust.. ordered some mics and a gage, can't tell where the issue lies without them... not the best night.. will have to wait til monday to see whats up

Did them twice to make sure the crank didn't move or anything also..

#1

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took it all apart, cleaned everything to make sure not even a piece of lint was in there.. all are .002 except #1... could get X bearings...

from what i have been reading plastigage can be trusted more than lower end (sub $250) bore gages.. not sure if i should just buy bearings or the tools.. bearings are $160-180
 
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took it all apart, cleaned everything to make sure not even a piece of lint was in there.. all are .002 except #1... could get .001 bearings...

from what i have been reading plastigage can be trusted more than lower end (sub $250) bore gages.. not sure if i should just buy bearings or the tools.. bearings are $160-180
I'd make sure the crank is in different positions
take the average of 3,

oil film can mess ya up, too
inspect the back of the bearings for burrs/machine/shipping issues
I would do a swip on 320+ (on the back seat surface of the bearing)
and look for withness marks, and then order bearings if needed

but trust yourself, too
you got this
 
I'd make sure the crank is in different positions
take the average of 3,

oil film can mess ya up, too
inspect the back of the bearings for burrs/machine/shipping issues
I would do a swip on 320+ (on the back seat surface of the bearing)
and look for withness marks, and then order bearings if needed

but trust yourself, too
you got this

Did it in 3 places, just took it apart and super cleaned it all again to make sure no oil or anything at all on it (used rubbing alcohol and a lint free rag) took a scotchbrite to the bores with alch also to made sure no residue or anything was in there.. they are just a touch tight..

I can get the non coated bearings for $88 which isn't bad.. the ones i have were 170..

.0015 is just too tight. if i go .001 bearing i would end up between .0025-.0033 (ish)
 
i see guys saying they ran .0015 even racing without issue..just seems like a big risk
the thing is, if I was to chose,
at 15 or another set of bearings at 33,
I'd go with the 15 because during assy
the bearings will better seat and will burnish in. aka add clearance
I've had it tight like that, assemble with oil,
set the caps (plastic hammer) and thrust (wood block ends of crank w/hammer), spin it (crank) a bunch by hand
disassemble clean, No not remove bearings
and check it again
I usually torque to 80-90% of spec
 
You could try swapping bearing halves in different locations.

FWIW, the FSM uses 0.0005"-0.0020" as the "desired" main bearing clearance with 0.0025" as the max allowable. I'd imagine clearance will open at least a couple tenths upon first fire too.
agree with the bearing swap, too
they can vary alot
 
You could try swapping bearing halves in different locations.

FWIW, the FSM uses 0.0005"-0.0020" as the "desired" main bearing clearance with 0.0025" as the max allowable. I'd imagine clearance will open at least a couple tenths upon first fire too.
I actually did try moving shells around :).. molnar says .001 per inch of journal diameter.. so .003 which i imagine is +/- .0005.. has to be some tolerance.. just don't wanna spin a bearing after all this
 
as from above post 108
"FSM uses 0.0005"-0.0020" as the "desired" main bearing clearance with 0.0025" as the max allowable."

are they all within that?
and fyi, bearing spin because of improper crush
just like a crush bearing on a pinion,
except the crush bits the cap backwards
 
Thanks for the help guys... i ordered a new torque wrench.. mine had a cool thing happen when i was using it where the handle moved and you can't tell if it's at like 90 or 130.. (numbers are in a little window).. gonna wait on doing **** til the new wrench gets here monday. i may have been over torquing without knowing it.. i was crazy hard to hit 110..

BTW.. this is the last time i did #1 (pick is of the cap, already cleaned the crank..)

I run 30w synthetic and could prolly get away with it.. but gonna try it with the new wrench on monday..

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as from above post 108
"FSM uses 0.0005"-0.0020" as the "desired" main bearing clearance with 0.0025" as the max allowable."

are they all within that?
and fyi, bearing spin because of improper crush
just like a crush bearing on a pinion,
except the crush bits the cap backwards

I thought bearing spin from heat/oil loss and grabbing the crank? which i figured too tight would do also
 

"Bill Mitchell and company chose to use merely .0015" clearance on the mains along with a high volume/high pressure oil pump, while at the same time recommended 10W 40 oil or 20W50"

i'm no bill mitchell :)
 
btw, i love molnar.. i have seen videos and posts of guys getting so much crap out of the oil holes in their cranks, and just dirty.. i pipe cleaned and sprayed out all the holes and it was spotless..



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