new QA1 K Frame

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It sounds to me like your car has been hit before and something is out of whack from the get go. Just my 2 cents on the subject.
 
Mad Dart said:
It sounds to me like your car has been hit before and something is out of whack from the get go. Just my 2 cents on the subject.
Click to expand...
Your 2 cents is growing old. Bill Reilly the owner of RMS, lives right down the road. Call him up and ask him if my car is bent, he's going to tell you I installed it in a rush.
Here I am, trying to throw out there, what I've found out by experience with this product., and how you have to be very careful installing it. What the pitfalls could be. So people who are buying it know that these things can happen. You keep adding to this with what info ? Do you have a QA1, or are you basing your non-constructive advice on nothing ? Tell me how you get the Damn thing perfect, so everybody here that might potentially buy this, can have some confidence in this product. Share you expertise. Not, sand down the torsion bars. Did you know spring steel is stress relieved before it cools ?, did you know a grinder, and sanding disc can cause stress rises even under minimum heat, if done wrong ?, and take away from it's rated yield. You could buy torsion bars rated for 200 lbs, and end up with 2 different ratings. Do i need to post a link on spring steel metallurgy ?, there's a good one from one of the biggest steel automotive manufactures in the country.
The stock factory piece has a conical seat on the head of the bolt, to fix the K member in place. QA1 has nothing, you have to find the centering by measuring, and luck, or fixing it in place, than bolting it up.
When your done why don't we put hi-jackers on the backs of our cars, and drill holes in our exhaust too.
 

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Ever touch a torsion bar where the TTI headers come 1/4" from them?
 
roccodart440 said:
Ever touch a torsion bar where the TTI headers come 1/4" from them?
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What is the point here to prove I'm wrong ?, or to test a new product ?,to honestly give the pros, and cons ? Here the phone # 951-371-4878, call TTI, and tell them your header reduces have small holes in them, about 1/8". Ask them if it would be OK the fill them with jb weld quick. Even though the package says it's only good to 500 degrees. I'm not even going to make believe to answer the question. You make the call. I already know their answer, because I had a long conversation with their guy on different coating last week.
Good, now look up " Will hand grinding change the temper of spring steel ?" Than you guys keep fighting the world, and changing the topics. Woo Hoo!!!!!!!!
 
Looking at how that K-Frame mounts at the front is a deal killer for me. I thought that the tubes positively located the bolt by the factory bolt going into it. Now that I see it's a 2-3" tube with a single shear and the bolt FLOATS in there...no way. I'll stick with the factory "junk".
 
garyfish340 said:
Your 2 cents is growing old. Bill Reilly the owner of RMS, lives right down the road. Call him up and ask him if my car is bent, he's going to tell you I installed it in a rush.
Here I am, trying to throw out there, what I've found out by experience with this product., and how you have to be very careful installing it. What the pitfalls could be. So people who are buying it know that these things can happen. You keep adding to this with what info ? Do you have a QA1, or are you basing your non-constructive advice on nothing ? Tell me how you get the Damn thing perfect, so everybody here that might potentially buy this, can have some confidence in this product. Share you expertise. Not, sand down the torsion bars. Did you know spring steel is stress relieved before it cools ?, did you know a grinder, and sanding disc can cause stress rises even under minimum heat, if done wrong ?, and take away from it's rated yield. You could buy torsion bars rated for 200 lbs, and end up with 2 different ratings. Do i need to post a link on spring steel metallurgy ?, there's a good one from one of the biggest steel automotive manufactures in the country.
The stock factory piece has a conical seat on the head of the bolt, to fix the K member in place. QA1 has nothing, you have to find the centering by measuring, and luck, or fixing it in place, than bolting it up.
When your done why don't we put hi-jackers on the backs of our cars, and drill holes in our exhaust too.
Click to expand...

while your input is ....what it is. You need to give us a break.

for starters, you are the one that asked for OUR comments on YOUR problem.

and for my money, Mad Dart knows his sh*t....and I will leave it at that.
you do not have to take his advice ....but please stop bustin anyones balls when we offer it. We are just trying to help, after all....YOU asked for it.

You have Bill (RMS) right down the street??? Bill is THE chassis guru, if I lived that close, I would become his friend and take his advise.

to comment on your K-frame /t-bar issue....
I wonder if when you installed the K-frame / front suspension,...... did you leave the lower control arms loose to allow the torsion bars to completely seat? From your description of the problem, It appears the LCA are possible tight and slightly cocked and will not allow the torsion bar to go completely in.....just my thought.

the comment about your car possibly being hit or wrecked?....valid point, but maybe we are looking too closely at your avatar.

This might not be the comment you asked for....but we all friends here.

Denny
 
DTMRacing said:
Looking at how that K-Frame mounts at the front is a deal killer for me. I thought that the tubes positively located the bolt by the factory bolt going into it. Now that I see it's a 2-3" tube with a single shear and the bolt FLOATS in there...no way. I'll stick with the factory "junk".
Click to expand...
I think you've got the point. I already have an exact replica mached up. What I want to do is find out how to resolve that issue, and whether it can be an extremely simple solution. A solution that will allow a guy, who doesn't weld, the ability to take the k member to a shop, invest a small amount of money, and resolve this issue. Resulting in a nice piece. I don't think the QA1 piece is bad, I think it needs a bit of evolution. My piece is stretched to the front, under the radiator, so that the radiator support is reinforced. The problem is providing clamping force, and shear force, plus a positive attachment point.
A lot of people will criticize this. As they should, because that kind of critique, helps to make ideas even better. My thinking is, unless you're awesome at welding at cold temperatures, Making a complete bolt in unit will keep 40 year old weathered mild steel from being fatigued. I'm not worried about the steel loosing it's memory, as much as changing the molecular structure of the steel. Especially in the north east rust belt. Heat sends waves, waves change structure. " Sand blast a piece of scrape, and you'll see, it'll oxidize at an astounding rate. Because sand blasting creates harmonics, that actually change the structure of steel. It's overkill, but than I'm building a daily driver. Some of these other guys are building show cars, weekend warriors, and race cars. They're never going to see the potholes, or salt, or the weather. If your car breaks at the track, you don't have to race, you can stop, and fix it. While their investment is initially large, they are not going to accumulate the kind of bills wear will amass. If I'm in Oswego N.Y. in January, 600 miles north of home. That's going to be a big pay check for the roll back driver if I break.
Things like the AlterKtion, and Street Lynx were designed by inspiration, and need. I saw Bill Reilly last month. I was asking him how it is that he keeps coming up with ideas, because he's constantly testing future products. He said, " Enough can't be said about the expression - Necessity is the mother of invention." Take what he said, and look at the roads around our house, ( I've posted this before, this is just a clip of a town where they'll allow the roads to be closed for the day. I can see the inspiration.
[ame]http://youtu.be/gAiuqnfxLRc[/ame]
Same with HemmyDenny. He was kind enough to PM me about my idea. As I had a chance to speak with him, it was very apparent that his work was inspired by a vacuum effect in the hobby, where a piece like his didn't exist. He was the guy who could change that, so he creates, and build the very thing people need. That's hot rodding...
 
garyfish340 said:
Your 2 cents is growing old. Bill Reilly the owner of RMS, lives right down the road. Call him up and ask him if my car is bent, he's going to tell you I installed it in a rush.
Here I am, trying to throw out there, what I've found out by experience with this product., and how you have to be very careful installing it. What the pitfalls could be. So people who are buying it know that these things can happen. You keep adding to this with what info ? Do you have a QA1, or are you basing your non-constructive advice on nothing ? Tell me how you get the Damn thing perfect, so everybody here that might potentially buy this, can have some confidence in this product. Share you expertise. Not, sand down the torsion bars. Did you know spring steel is stress relieved before it cools ?, did you know a grinder, and sanding disc can cause stress rises even under minimum heat, if done wrong ?, and take away from it's rated yield. You could buy torsion bars rated for 200 lbs, and end up with 2 different ratings. Do i need to post a link on spring steel metallurgy ?, there's a good one from one of the biggest steel automotive manufactures in the country.
The stock factory piece has a conical seat on the head of the bolt, to fix the K member in place. QA1 has nothing, you have to find the centering by measuring, and luck, or fixing it in place, than bolting it up.
When your done why don't we put hi-jackers on the backs of our cars, and drill holes in our exhaust too.
Click to expand...

If you know everything then WTF do you keep asking for advise…. Typical Jackwad idiot. :finga:
 
DTMRacing said:
Looking at how that K-Frame mounts at the front is a deal killer for me. I thought that the tubes positively located the bolt by the factory bolt going into it. Now that I see it's a 2-3" tube with a single shear and the bolt FLOATS in there...no way. I'll stick with the factory "junk".
Click to expand...

So make a drop in spacer for the bolt to not free float around in it. Wouldn't that cure the issue? Just as a leaf spring bushing but out of solid aluminum or steel would cure this no??? That's what I would do with it. Would eliminate the shear and instsbility of the front mount all in one. Hell you could even use an offset bushing to adjust accordingly if need be. That is something that can be made with a simple drill press and time.
 
turbofreek said:
So make a drop in spacer for the bolt to not free float around in it. Wouldn't that cure the issue? Just as a leaf spring bushing but out of solid aluminum or steel would cure this no??? That's what I would do with it. Would eliminate the shear and instsbility of the front mount all in one. Hell you could even use an offset bushing to adjust accordingly if need be. That is something that can be made with a simple drill press and time.
Click to expand...


I was thinking this myslef. I also wonder what answer you'd get from QA1 if you asked about this issue? I called them and asked alot of questions before ordering mine. I haven't instaled it yet. One thing they did say is the product was redesigned and is now made to their specs with their quality control vs. CAP's.

Speaking of RMS. I called him to order upppers. Told him I was using Qa1 lowers and Qa1's kmember. He was familier with the product and didn't have anything bad to say about it. While an alterK would be my dream. 1,000 vs. 5500 is a huge gap.
 
I'm not sure if I'm allowed to speak anymore.It's 50/50 as it stands. I think your heading in the right direction. I like your innovation, and I'm being sincere, I'm not just saying that cause MadDouche wants to sand my face off while he could just toss a 50 cent snap ring on my head.
I'm going to investigate your idea.
turbofreek said:
So make a drop in spacer for the bolt to not free float around in it. Wouldn't that cure the issue? Just as a leaf spring bushing but out of solid aluminum or steel would cure this no??? That's what I would do with it. Would eliminate the shear and instsbility of the front mount all in one. Hell you could even use an offset bushing to adjust accordingly if need be. That is something that can be made with a simple drill press and time.
Click to expand...
 
roccodart440 said:
I was thinking this myslef. I also wonder what answer you'd get from QA1 if you asked about this issue? I called them and asked alot of questions before ordering mine. I haven't instaled it yet. One thing they did say is the product was redesigned and is now made to their specs with their quality control vs. CAP's.

Speaking of RMS. I called him to order upppers. Told him I was using Qa1 lowers and Qa1's kmember. He was familier with the product and didn't have anything bad to say about it. While an alterK would be my dream. 1,000 vs. 5500 is a huge gap.
Click to expand...

It would make it much more ridged for sure. Just machine to fit the tube and if its needed for each side make two of them. That way its a solid piece from where the bolt goes in to the frame attachment point. All don't and simple easy fix I think.

**** one could make a u channel to wrap around the frame rail with the bushing adapted as a part of it with a fitted hole to allow more holding ability without the k member to move around once in place.
 
turbofreek said:
It would make it much more ridged for sure. Just machine to fit the tube and if its needed for each side make two of them. That way its a solid piece from where the bolt goes in to the frame attachment point. All don't and simple easy fix I think.

**** one could make a u channel to wrap around the frame rail with the bushing adapted as a part of it with a fitted hole to allow more holding ability without the k member to move around once in place.
Click to expand...
That's pretty good. I was sort of on your page, but I'm modifying my idea, with yours. I was think of some type of alignment dowel too. It could be very tiny, and be pretty effective.
I'm going to try your bushing idea.
 
I want to apologize to everyone reading this. I was wrong for calling MadDart names. Two different people can have, two separate answers. That should be respected. I want to wish you all a Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year.
If you get a chance, check out MadDarts threads, he's got some bad *** rides over there.
 
Garyfish, glad you settled down.
You must have been real stressed lately with this and possibly other stuff going on in your life.
Like Denny said we are all friends here.
Glad you apologized. I thought this thread was going to go straight down hill.
Hopefully Maddart will accept your apology. He has done some great work on his stuff, and we could all learn from it and his comments.

Onig
 
garyfish340 said:
I want to apologize to everyone reading this. I was wrong for calling MadDart names. Two different people can have, two separate answers. That should be respected. I want to wish you all a Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year.
If you get a chance, check out MadDarts threads, he's got some bad *** rides over there.
Click to expand...

No sweat. Carry on!
 
Man I was gonna comment and say, you guys ***** more than a guy complaining about a Chevy motor in a Ford... But all is good. Haha

Merry Christmas to all you guys. Mike
 
voodoo1 said:
Man I was gonna comment and say, you guys ***** more than a guy complaining about a Chevy motor in a Ford... But all is good. Haha

Merry Christmas to all you guys. Mike
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no spin-outs here....we're back in the groove!

Merry Christmas,
Denny
 
TUBULAR CONTROL ARM INSTRUCTIONS - ***In some cases, especially if using bearing ends, slight grinding may be needed on the forward frame bracket in A-bodies. Before connecting arm to spindle, move it through the complete range of motion to ensure adequate clearance. *** oOpS!!!
 
If you're serious about buying this k member, here's what you need to know straight from QA1's own instruction manual. If you're just going to get angry with me, it doesn't matter, because, everybody might have been correct in a sense, but my info was 100% spot on, no B.S..

Sure I'm an asshole, but I'm good at it.
 

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