Newer Aluminum W/P on '65 273 with A/C

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one mile

one mile

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Daughters '65 Cuda, Factory A/C with 273. I installed Firm Feel power steering Box from manual. Putting later Saganaw pump on motor, can I just swap to Aluminum pump on Motor with pass side outlet? Cast Iron Pump lower outlet hits newer steering pump and factory Mopar Bkts. I got with pump will not work and I do not want to do a "Butcher Job". I know lower radiator port will neeed to be moved but what about my stock Alt. and A/C ? Any input welcome. Thanks, Tim (Dad) :banghead:
 
I believe you will need new pulleys to make that pump work. The alum. Pump is longer to the nose of the pump.
 
I put a newer alum w.p. on my 65 273. It is 1" longer so I couldn't use the factory fan w/ spacer nor a clutch -fan. I had to use a Summit nylon fan. Depends on your radiator. Mine was for a ~72 Dart, the earliest one Autozone could get. I assume your later pwr steering pump brackets are made for the alum pump so don't need the outer hole of the cast-iron pump. I had to use a later Federal pump. I used a short alum pulley on the water pump. As I recall, my alternator belt is on the water pump pulley and the pwr steering pump only on the crank pulley. You can easily locate the alternator axially, use chrome spacers from Ace.
 
You will loose the view of your timing scale also. I think your ac compumper has idler and tension pulleys and a single V belt. Thats where your real problems will be. Not easy to change there line up.
You might be better off just buying everything from the block face forward to the radiator support from a later LA. That would put the compumper under a matched pair of V belts, delete the little pulleys, and all those other conflicts.
 
Thanks Redfish. I forgot to mention that I installed a later timing cover (mine was corroded anyway), and had to cut another mark in the damper for the new timing mark. Best to use a piston stop to find TDC for that. I temporarily rigged up the original bolt-on timing tab for that, but it doesn't quite fit around the tube.

Redfish is correct that pulleys are confusing, without much info on what is out there between different years, dampers, factory AC, different pwr steering pumps, cars vs trucks or vans, etc. Many of the after-market alum pulleys won't work for you, but you won't know that until you try (how would I know?). I recall that Bouichillon had some of the better info on the parts they sell. Personally, I wouldn't invest much into re-engineering for the RV-2 compressor. It is reliable, but so heavy they put different torsion bars in AC cars. A new Sanden is much smaller, lighter, and more efficient.
 
Going Sanden for sure ,for the looks of being updated and I am sure the parasidic drag is MUCH less. Is it impossible to see the timming tab or just hard to see? I am going Electric Fans so I can CONTORT with the Timming Light to see it without fear of "Fan Rash". I can change the cover but would rather not, Daughter is getting after me to quit taking things APART! Ha Ha ..... Thanks, :D Tim (Dad)
 
Impossible. You can't bolt your sheet-metal timing tab to the new water pump since the inlet pipe sticks out there.

Look for my post a few years ago where I showed 4 different timing covers for SB's. I have never seen a sheet-metal tab for the driver's side, though there might be. You could fab your own. Interesting that one cover has an integral tab on the passenger side.
 
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