Nitrous on a 340 100 shot

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Heat range will be correct when two-three threads around the base are darkened. Timing will be about perfect when the light coloration on the ground strap just about reaches the base.

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Here is cylinder #1 spark plug. 2 pics of it with the gravel in the background

And 2 pics of cylinder #3 with brown tarp as background

And 1 close up of cyl#1 is that detonation on the porcelain?

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Hard to tell on a screen. Get a magnifying glass and look at it. Your tune up is close. Looking at that plug I’d pull one degree of timing and use one heat range colder and re test. And at that point in your fueling I’d be cutting a plug to look at the fuel ring. Nice work.
 
It’s hard to tell but is the end of the ground electrode sharp and square? Or is it just starting to nip the end of it?
Referencing your last pic above
 
TT5.9mag said:
It’s hard to tell but is the end of the ground electrode sharp and square? Or is it just starting to nip the end of it?
Referencing your last pic above
Click to expand...
It's square not sharp. I just zoomed in from one of the first pics. What do you mean "starting to nip the end"?
 
When the timing is close to the ragged edge, the first thing to show signs of it, is the ground strap. It will melt back the end of the tip.
 
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Not a good pic but you get the idea. This is case of too much timing and heat in the ground strap.
 
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nfhDODGEnfh said:
It's square not sharp. I just zoomed in from one of the first pics. What do you mean "starting to nip the end"?
Click to expand...
This has been a pretty educational post thank you all guys for sharing everything y'all have I built my 340 to spray 100 shot on also. Just had health issues get in the way. I've only had one other vehicle with nitrous it was 2100 lb but I didn't set up the spray kit on it
 
TT5.9mag said:
If it’s square then it’s sharp. :lol:
Compare it to a new plug and give your opinion.
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Looks square and sharp to me, compared to a plug before running nitrous and looks the same. I'll definitely be keeping an eye on my plugs as I continue to use nitrous. Seems like the best way to ensure engine is ok. Thanks

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nfhDODGEnfh said:
Looks square and sharp to me, compared to a plug before running nitrous and looks the same. I'll definitely be keeping an eye on my plugs as I continue to use nitrous. Seems like the best way to ensure engine is ok. Thanks

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Click to expand...
I ain't trying to be a pain in the *** but the inquisitive Carpenter in me wants to know if that's Square from top to bottom or Square from the long side across the short side or does he mean everything involved?
 
TT5.9mag said:
When the timing is close to the ragged edge, the first thing to show signs of it, is the electrode. It will melt back the end of the tip.
Click to expand...
I will dial it back another degree of timing and try a colder plug aswell and see if the results change much. Right now I'm at 33* and my best tune was 35* so I may be a little to high. Just didn't want to loose much power when NA but I suppose that's the tradeoff.
 
nfhDODGEnfh said:
I will dial it back another degree of timing and try a colder plug aswell and see if the results change much. Right now I'm at 33* and my best tune was 35* so I may be a little to high. Just didn't want to loose much power when NA but I suppose that's the tradeoff.
Click to expand...
I agree with the fact you want to keep it Full Throttle without the bottle! But the beauty of that is you still got the bottle!
 
nfhDODGEnfh said:
Looks square and sharp to me, compared to a plug before running nitrous and looks the same. I'll definitely be keeping an eye on my plugs as I continue to use nitrous. Seems like the best way to ensure engine is ok. Thanks

View attachment 1716070959
Click to expand...
Square with sharp corners is good. My advice is above a few posts back. If you were nipping the end of the electrode I’d say pull 3 degrees out of it. But I’d need to see where your fuel is at to know for sure. Youve got a little tune up work left to do. And you’re correct the best (ONLY) way to know what is going on in the chamber is by reading the plug.
 
nfhDODGEnfh said:
I will dial it back another degree of timing and try a colder plug aswell and see if the results change much. Right now I'm at 33* and my best tune was 35* so I may be a little to high. Just didn't want to loose much power when NA but I suppose that's the tradeoff.
Click to expand...
If you get an ignition controller that yanks the timing only when the n2o is activated you can have your cake and eat it too.
 
Ironracer said:
Sounds like I need to buy a book with super large glossy color pictures and get my eyeglasses out and perfect the art of reading plugs just for the heck of it
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Not just for the heck of it. You’ll learn a bunch and you junk will never run better.
 
TT5.9mag said:
Square with sharp corners is good. My advice is above a few posts back. If you were nipping the end of the electrode I’d say pull 3 degrees out of it. But I’d need to see where your fuel is at to know for sure. You e got a little tune up work left to do. And you’re correct the best (ONLY) way to know what is going on in the chamber is by reading the plplug
Click to expand...
I'll do another pull or 2 soon with 32* timing instead of 33 and let everyone know the results. For anyone wondering the engine combo it's a 340 bored 30 over with 10.5:1 , j heads, air gap intake, procomp xe268 cam, 780 holley, Doug's headers, msd ignition. Nothing crazy but a fun street car. Thanks again to all the helpful advice.
 
TT5.9mag said:
If you get an ignition controller that yanks the timing only when the n2o is activated you can have your cake and eat it too.
Click to expand...
I've considered it for sure. But already bought the msd6a so just waiting for enough funds to rebuy a digital 6plus if loss of power really bothers me haha.
 
Here is a video I made of how I cut plugs in my redneck lathe. AKA drill press.

 
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