no headlights or anything+upgrade alt question

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john27pa

john27pa

74 360/904 Duster
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I rewired my 74 Duster with a complete harness from a 74 swinger-inside and out. Even took steering column from swinger/valiant. Anyway- dumb question first. I dont have the ammeter hooked up in dash yet. Would this cause me to not have any juice inside car and to all lights inside and out? From what I can see- looks like it may be the direct electrical connection for everything-the ammeter. Is this right?

Second question. I installed an alt from a 79 Cordoba-100 amp. Just nice to have the extra output. Do I need 4 gauge wiring for this? Sounds really thick compared to what I remember being in the Cordoba?? Will this 100 amp fry my ammeter? If so- how do I bypass the ammeter to run dash and lights-if 1st question is because of ammeter?

I dont have a key for the steering column-hopefully I can get that switch out without too much problem.
I have juice at the starter relay under hood, but seems like thats the only place. It turns over. No gas in car yet.
 
Ok- going to run a 6 gauge wire from alt to battery post on relay with a 10 gauge fusible link. Is this still going to get electric to the dash and headlights? Can you tell Im no electronics whiz? lol. Seems to me that since im bypassing the ammeter gauge, I still wont get power to the dash-right? Is there another wire im missing somewhere that gets power to inside the car and the head/tail lights? I always thought thaT THE lights were basically a straight shot from battery to switch to headlights?? I dont even have my 4-way emergency flashers working??!!
 
john27pa said:
Ok- going to run a 6 gauge wire from alt to battery post on relay with a 10 gauge fusible link. Is this still going to get electric to the dash and headlights? Can you tell Im no electronics whiz? lol. Seems to me that since im bypassing the ammeter gauge, I still wont get power to the dash-right? Is there another wire im missing somewhere that gets power to inside the car and the head/tail lights? I always thought thaT THE lights were basically a straight shot from battery to switch to headlights?? I dont even have my 4-way emergency flashers working??!!
Click to expand...
Wait- I think I got you now- tie the two wires at the ammeter together with the bolt and tape- got it. Kinda sucks that it renders that gauge useless. Time to get a volt gauge put in my oil pressure and tach cluster.
Thanks! I also looked on--->
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html
 
What I meant was you must tie the ammeter wires together to GET POWER. What I should have said was, you either need them tied together or else the ammeter hooked up

Hooking the alternator directly to the relay stud will ALSO render the ammeter useless, but that's what you need to do with that big alternator

If you look around, somewhere, there's an article on installing an inexpensive VOLTMETER inside your factory dash in place of the AMMETER, and it looks fairly stock.

I'll try to remember to look for it in the morning. I'm getting bleary eyed tonight.
 
bohica2xo said:
If you want to keep the stock ammeter functional, you can install an external current shunt.

I need to go back an add some new pics to the thread, but here is how:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=151601

B.
Click to expand...

You have some good ideas there, but it still bothers me that you are depending on the original wiring (it seems?) through the bulkhead connector for power in/ out of the interior.

High-amp current is the root of all evil with these connectors. Even "back in the day" I saw failures of these, including my own 70 440 sixpack which had an "optional" 60-65 A alternator, and "a little bit of amateur radio gear."

Long before there was Al Gore or the internet, I removed the main feed wires, drilled 'em out, and ran larger gauge wiring in/ out of the connector.
 
The wiring behind the dash is original. The loads are reasonable, worst case is the heater & wipers on at the same time.

One reason I need to update the pics is I have added relays for lamps, ignition etc. underhood.

If you look at the pictures, the '65 has buss bars through the bulkhead connector. The wires bolt down to the solid bar that extends through the bulkhead.

I agree that on cars with a push on connection, the connector is not up to the task, and should be replaced with a solid wire like madefi shows on their site.

The shunt still serves the same purpose in either case, and provides a secure bolt down connection for future use - like a ham radio.

The A bodies have weak electrical systems, with things like the under dash hidden splice / weld & the unfused blue wire running everything under the hood. My favorite is the horn wire, right off of the start relay with no fuse.

I am slowly correcting things like that & will post more pics.

B.
 
bohica2xo said:
If you look at the pictures, the '65 has buss bars through the bulkhead connector. The wires bolt down to the solid bar that extends through the bulkhead..
Click to expand...

Ah, yes, forgot that detail, and too bad Ma didn't continue usin' em.
 
When adding a big alternator to a mopar system it is always a good idea to fix the charging circuit path. There is no reason to send all of that current into the cabin & back out if it is not needed in there.

With a big alternator the OEM wire from the alternator, through the various connectors all the way to the battery is a fire waiting to happen. That is the reason I replaced the wire in those pics with a larger cable.

60 amp alternators are antiques now. Even a small denso from a D100 is a 90a unit I will be mounting a 145a unit on the 318 this month to replace the 37a antique. I actually have a 275a unit laying here for a customer that would fit.

If you add a 100a alternator to an A body, I would recommend adding a second wire directly from the output stud on the alternator to the battery positive. At least 10 gauge, and 8 gauge would be better. This wire is installed to supplement your OEM harness. Keep the OEM circuit in place as well. This will serve as a crude current shunt, and keep your system alive while you work out the other details. If you wind up with something like CS144 alternator, an 8 gauge wire is absolutely necessary - in addition to your OEM circuit.

B.
 
Ok- hooked up ammeter and battery. Not starting car yet-just checking lights and dash electronics. I still have no headlights. I have parking lights and dash lights. Horn keeps blowing. I only have 5 spots in my fuse block to fill. ??hmm?? Anyway- horn could possibly be relay-not sure yet. There are two spots that take the turn signal flasher. One is on left side of dash-the other is over by glovebox. Could this be a double?? One for turn and one for emergency? My emer flashers wont flash and neither does my turn signals. Could itbe that all my relays are crap? Thats my type of luck! Any ideas other than relays? How about the headlights?
 
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