66DartSedan
Well-Known Member
Recently my gauges were acting up and now this morning fuel and temp are dead. used a test light with power on, all fuses read power except the fuse for the instrument gauge. What do i check next?
No power to instrument fuse 66 dart
- Thread starter 66DartSedan
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replace the fuse and see what happens. maybe the fuse was failing and that explained the acting up. or it might be an intermittent short somewhere that ultimately popped the fuse.
What has been changed lately?
What has been changed lately?
66DartSedan
Well-Known Member
OKay, i turned the headlights on, and then with my test light i get power to the "instrument" fuse.
headlights, tail lights, blinkers, instrument panel lights all working, but gauges suddenly not working.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
The inst fuse is a "trick" circuit. This is the ONLY fuse that is "downstream" from something else
The power for the dash dimmer comes FROM the tail / park circuit in the headlight switch. Through the dash dimmer, and out on the tan wire, it then goes down to the fuse panel, through the inst fuse, and to the dash lamps on ORANGE wiring
So the tail circuit has to be intact and the fuse OK
The light switch has to be "on" either park or head
The dash dimmer has to be turned "somewhat" to the left..........
and only then will you see power on the inst fuse
The power for the dash dimmer comes FROM the tail / park circuit in the headlight switch. Through the dash dimmer, and out on the tan wire, it then goes down to the fuse panel, through the inst fuse, and to the dash lamps on ORANGE wiring
So the tail circuit has to be intact and the fuse OK
The light switch has to be "on" either park or head
The dash dimmer has to be turned "somewhat" to the left..........
and only then will you see power on the inst fuse
66DartSedan
Well-Known Member
I see that now. So I'm more confused as to why my gauges have stopped all idea sudden.
I realized that now. I've turned on everything, and checked the test light and it is getting power, my dash lights are working, headlights are working tail lights are working, but both gauges are not. The circuit board, instrument cluster gauge are new maybe 6 months old, i dont see anything on there that is suspect do you?
66DartSedan
Well-Known Member
True, I hope not. It's only 7 months old. And cost me $50 It's an ivr4, electric solid state one.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
The gauges have nothing to do with the inst fuse, that fuse is strictly lighting
The "circuit path" for the gauges (let's take temp) is as follows:
From the ignition switch power, is run to the dash cluster. NONE OF THIS IS FUSED (might be on later cars but not the inst fuse lol)
Ign switch...............cluster CONNECTOR PINS......circuit board..........power to the IVR.........out to the various gauges...........through the temp gauge...........back to the CONNECTOR PINS..........out on the temp sender wire to the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR.........out to the engine bay to the TEMP SENDER CONNECTOR............to the TEMP SENDER...........to GROUND
FAILURE POINTS this varies by year
Cluster connector pins are a big issue, they get loose, need to be soldered to the board traces, and cleaned
The IVR contact fingers can lose contact with the board traces, and you must solder jumpers across.
The gauges studs/ nuts can become loose/ corroded. Loosen/ tighten them a few times to scrub them clean.
Again the sender wire goes through a connector pin which can be loose
=========================================
If NO gauges are working, I would look for loss of power to the IVR from the ignition switch, a defective IVR (new does not mean good) or bad / loose contact fingers for the IVR on the PC board.
Here is a very old thread which is unsurpassed
Printed circuit pins repair
Scroll down showing the pins and IVR connector repair
The "circuit path" for the gauges (let's take temp) is as follows:
From the ignition switch power, is run to the dash cluster. NONE OF THIS IS FUSED (might be on later cars but not the inst fuse lol)
Ign switch...............cluster CONNECTOR PINS......circuit board..........power to the IVR.........out to the various gauges...........through the temp gauge...........back to the CONNECTOR PINS..........out on the temp sender wire to the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR.........out to the engine bay to the TEMP SENDER CONNECTOR............to the TEMP SENDER...........to GROUND
FAILURE POINTS this varies by year
Cluster connector pins are a big issue, they get loose, need to be soldered to the board traces, and cleaned
The IVR contact fingers can lose contact with the board traces, and you must solder jumpers across.
The gauges studs/ nuts can become loose/ corroded. Loosen/ tighten them a few times to scrub them clean.
Again the sender wire goes through a connector pin which can be loose
=========================================
If NO gauges are working, I would look for loss of power to the IVR from the ignition switch, a defective IVR (new does not mean good) or bad / loose contact fingers for the IVR on the PC board.
Here is a very old thread which is unsurpassed
Printed circuit pins repair
Scroll down showing the pins and IVR connector repair
66DartSedan
Well-Known Member
Okay perhaps I've been looking in the wrong place.
Yesterday, as I was driving the car suddenly just died. Turned the ignition and got nothing.
Remembering the previous owner had re-routed the ignition with this fuse and it was warm to the touch and coming apart. I fiddled with it and that allowed me to start the car and get home.
When I got home I went under the dash and made certain the ignition was tight and re-spliced the wire so the connection was better. The car starts fine.
Maybe I need a new ignition switch.
66DartSedan
Well-Known Member
Okay I went thru the back of the dash and I found the issue. The guy I bought this from had rigged the old circuit board and ivr, I've since changed every thing except the wiring harness which he's spliced and taped up once I pinch that black taped wire both gauges turn back on. So I'll need to take the re splice and fix it.
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