With the dist installed and the cap off does the rotor turn when you crank the engine?
yes, rotor turn when cranking and the correct coil from FBO.Are you using the fbo recommended coil
Did some more checking today.yes, rotor turn when cranking and the correct coil from FBO.
I swapped out the starter and battery, same results.If the voltage during cranking at the ig sw is not within 1/2 volt of battery voltage, then some voltage is getting lost between them. The usual culprits, in order of probability are: the firewall connector, the fusible link, or the ammeter gauge.
The most voltage you can get at the switch is battery voltage.
So if it's less than 9.5 volts at the sw,(and therefore just a tic more than that at the battery), and the aforementioned connections are good, then the battery is is either in need of charging, or dead, or shot; or the starter is drawing way too much current, making the battery appear to be shot..
Yep that’s what i plan on checking next. Pull the plugs and spin it over be hand and see how freely it spins. The plugs did sit out of the motor for about two weeks, maybe some rust?Well, someone already mentioned to bypass all of the ignition system, by jumpering the battery directly to the FBO ECU. So if you can't get within 1/2 volt of battery voltage there during cranking using this method, then disable the ignition system, charge the battery, and try again. If the battery voltage is still low, then take out the plugs, charge the battery,and try again. There has to be a legitimate reason that the battery is falling to 9.5, and since you already subbed in a different battery, and a different starter, then it sorta has to be mechanical; like liquid in the cylinders,over-advanced ignition, or dragging internal parts, just to name the most likely.
Ok removed the plugs and spun the motor by hand, turns freely no drag.Well, someone already mentioned to bypass all of the ignition system, by jumpering the battery directly to the FBO ECU. So if you can't get within 1/2 volt of battery voltage there during cranking using this method, then disable the ignition system, charge the battery, and try again. If the battery voltage is still low, then take out the plugs, charge the battery,and try again. There has to be a legitimate reason that the battery is falling to 9.5, and since you already subbed in a different battery, and a different starter, then it sorta has to be mechanical; like liquid in the cylinders,over-advanced ignition, or dragging internal parts, just to name the most likely.
Yes but cranking voltage at the battery with all plugs in,at summer-time temperature, should be more than 10.5v and holding for at least 15 to 30 seconds at this time of year. The longer it holds the bigger or the better, or the stronger, is the battery.I should have some where near 10 volts. yes no?
Ok, I removed the jumper wire from the ballast resistor and now have spark and it started.Current takes the path of least resistance. In start that would be the large battery cable to starter and the starter. Everything else about the car runs on different much smaller wire. Then there's a fusible link, amp gauge, ign' switch, bulkhead terminals, etc.., to create more resistance in this path. What you have found thus far, you have less than battery voltage through all of that stuff, and lesser still when starter is drawing the lions share. There always was a back feed through the ballast resistor during start but that resistor reduced the backfeed/draw. A bypassed ballast resistor doesn't. I would need to study wiring diagrams for your model to know what circuits are getting full 12 volts during start that should not.
Relays are used to get improved voltage to headlights. Same approach would get improved voltage to charging and ignition systems.