NON MOPAR: clutch is not disengaging

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bigtommy

bigtommy

old school power
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my sisters 95 Honda accord clutch is not disengaging. i can put it in all the gears when car is off. but when i put it in first and push the clutch in and turn it over, the car lunches forward or when start in N and push clutch it grins when put into gear. no leaks that i can see with clutch fluid. HELP please.
 
Bad slave cylinder, no fluid in slave cylinder, air in slave cylinder system. Gotta be something to do with the slave cylinder as it's what disengages the clutch. First thing to do is check the fluid level.

btw; the clutch grins??? Must be happy I guess, LOL...
 
It would not HAVE to be linkage/ hydraulics. Could be a bad pilot bearing/ bushing. Could be problems with the pressure plate.

I'm not familiar with Hondoids. Is there an inspection hole/ cover where you can see up into the clutch/ disc and measure release
 
If you can see the clutch fork, have some one push the clutch in and see if the fork is moving...if not, your slave cylinder is not working.
 
the fork is moving. slave cylinder is new. me and a friend had bleed it and fluid comes out and it looks like no air is in it either. i was thinking maybe the throw out bearing is bad. because i have a good clutch peddle. it feels like a normal clutch would. just wont disengaging
 
fishy68 said:
Bad slave cylinder, no fluid in slave cylinder, air in slave cylinder system. Gotta be something to do with the slave cylinder as it's what disengages the clutch. First thing to do is check the fluid level.

btw; the clutch grins??? Must be happy I guess, LOL...
Click to expand...


i cant spell that good lol
 
Could be the clutch is just worn out. It should have been difficult to get in reverse without grinding for a period , then got worse from there. Then some clutch discs will fly apart all at once.
 
Does the clutch pedal ever stick to the floor? Pull the boots back on the slave cylinder & the master cylinder- you have to get under the dash for the m/c. If any fluid comes out of either one replace both.
Otherwise the problem is inside the bellhousing & the trans has to come out. Plan on a new clutch assy & release & pilot bearings. PM me with any questions.
 
That's what they do when the disc is worn out believe it or not.
Fortunatly Honda sticks are really easy to change out.
One of the guys I worked with could take a Honda stick trans out in 10 min.
Of course that was on a lift with air tools.

Take the right front tire off, then take the bottom ball joint loose from the lower control arm.
Take the steering tierod end off the hub.

Pop the axle out of the trans with a fair sized screwdriver or small prybar and swing it way off towards the rear of the car with it still connected to the hub end to get it out of your way.
From there it's cake.

NOTE
The axle has a little ring around the splined end that holds the axle in the trans.
Just a sharp little pop with your pry tool between the trans and the CV joint yoke will pop it right out.
When you are putting it back in, just start the splines back in and give the hub a little sharp push and it'll pop back in.
Then assemble the lower ball joint and tierod back on the hub.

Take all the top trans and starter bolts out before you lift it.(there are only a few)




RedFish said:
Could be the clutch is just worn out. It should have been difficult to get in reverse without grinding for a period , then got worse from there. Then some clutch discs will fly apart all at once.
Click to expand...
 
I also take the bolts out of the brake caliper and hook the caliper in the spring coils, secure with zip tie. This allows a lot more movement in the spindle/strut tower without damaging the fluid hose.
 
Although, if that damages the brakeline it needed replaced anyway.

RedFish said:
I also take the bolts out of the brake caliper and hook the caliper in the spring coils, secure with zip tie. This allows a lot more movement in the spindle/strut tower without damaging the fluid hose.
Click to expand...
 
bigtommy said:
the fork is moving. slave cylinder is new. me and a friend had bleed it and fluid comes out and it looks like no air is in it either. i was thinking maybe the throw out bearing is bad. because i have a good clutch peddle. it feels like a normal clutch would. just wont disengaging
Click to expand...
Maybe your pressure plate is bad. If your clutch disk was shot, you'd still be able to press the clutch in and the disk would release but if the pressure plate went south it wouldn't.
 
It all needs done at once anyway.
And not neccesarily on the disengauge because a disintigrating disc can build up high spots from loose material stacking up in spots.

jerkyboy said:
Maybe your pressure plate is bad. If your clutch disk was shot, you'd still be able to press the clutch in and the disk would release but if the pressure plate went south it wouldn't.
Click to expand...
 
67Dart273 said:
It would not HAVE to be linkage/ hydraulics. Could be a bad pilot bearing/ bushing. Could be problems with the pressure plate.

I'm not familiar with Hondoids. Is there an inspection hole/ cover where you can see up into the clutch/ disc and measure release
Click to expand...

Like I said earlier........................
 
Not sure about '95, but check for a clutch adjustment first. Did a slave and master on a customer's '98 and I ran it on the lift, knowing it was going to need an adjustment. Did the same thing you're describing.

In the '98 it had two adjustments on the pedal. One of the pedal itself, one on the floor that I had to pull back the carpet to get to. Even eliminated a reserve grind from previous work when some replaced the clutch. Customer was happy.

Like I said, not sure about '95 vs the '98, but I'd hate to see you pull a trans if all it was is just a couple of adjustments.
 
ramenth said:
Not sure about '95, but check for a clutch adjustment first. Did a slave and master on a customer's '98 and I ran it on the lift, knowing it was going to need an adjustment. Did the same thing you're describing.

In the '98 it had two adjustments on the pedal. One of the pedal itself, one on the floor that I had to pull back the carpet to get to. Even eliminated a reserve grind from previous work when some replaced the clutch. Customer was happy.

Like I said, not sure about '95 vs the '98, but I'd hate to see you pull a trans if all it was is just a couple of adjustments.
Click to expand...

Great point, you should definitely check to see if there is a way to adjust the clutch. The adjustment would allow for the pressure plate fingers to be pushed in further, which should free up the clutch disk.
 
Wish we knew that in the beginning.
In this order,
Chk the fluid in the clutch cyl.
Chk the bellhousing bolts for tight.
See if you can see past the fork boot to chk pressure plate bolts.
Then it could be a dry pilot bushing.


bigtommy said:
the clutch only has 2000 miles on it though
Click to expand...
 
ramenth said:
Not sure about '95, but check for a clutch adjustment first. Did a slave and master on a customer's '98 and I ran it on the lift, knowing it was going to need an adjustment. Did the same thing you're describing.

In the '98 it had two adjustments on the pedal. One of the pedal itself, one on the floor that I had to pull back the carpet to get to. Even eliminated a reserve grind from previous work when some replaced the clutch. Customer was happy.

Like I said, not sure about '95 vs the '98, but I'd hate to see you pull a trans if all it was is just a couple of adjustments.
Click to expand...

NEVER! NEVER touch the adjustment on the floor! I'ts a pedal stop & is preset at the factory & if the clutch doesn't disengage then you have problems elsewhere. Also all you need to do with the pushrod adjustment on the master cylinder is set the freeplay, it should be close out of the box with an OE part. Basically if you can slide the pin in through the pushrod & pedal it's OK. A hydraulic clutch is self adjusting so you never need to adjust it as the clutch wears.
I've been doing these cars for 25+ years & never saw a disc wearing that would cause it not to disengage unless it was damaged. The worn clutch dust could never build up to the point where it wouldn't disengage. IT'S FREAKIN DUST! It just gets slung around inside the bellhousing.
If its not a hydraulic problem you either have a damaged or misaligned fork or a bad plate & bearing.
Also make sure you have the correct trans oil in it. It takes either the Honda Manual Trans fluid or 5w30 or 10w30 weight motor oil -NOT GEAR OIL.
:burnout:
 
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