Not a racer but asking a cam question.

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moparmat2000

moparmat2000

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Ok, heres the overview on the engine driveline, and useage. I have a 1977 360 i am turning into a 408. Using KB745 pistons with a 20.50 dished volume, cometic .040" headgaskets, eagle H beam rods, 4340 forged 4" stroker crank from ohio crankshaft. I will be using an eddy performer RPM intake thats port matched to a pair of procomp aluminum heads 65cc with 2.02-1.60 valves w chevy diameter stems, an eddy 750 carb, and hedman block huggers. Engine will end up 9.6 to 1 compression so its pump gas friendly on 92 octane. It will have a Mopar electronic dist fired with an HEI module. 4 speed manual OD trans and 3.73 rear end gears.

If i mill the heads down to 62cc it will end up 9.8 to 1 CR. Not sure if thats going to be too high for street use with pump gas, but can do that if necessary for a bit more oomph. The heads are still bare and in the box, but set up for chevrolet diameter stems.

I plan on beefing up the trans before this goes in so i dont blow the gears in it, eventually will buy an A588 OD from Jamie Passon. I plan on driving the car freeway, maybe strip duty once and awhile, do some jack rabbit starts at traffic lights to startle the honduh crowd. Mostly general funning around etc.

Engine will outwardly appear stock 1967. Going for the restored sleeper look of a stock dressed looking 273 2bbl not commando. I want people to walk past it at a show without giving it a second look.

Now for my cam question. I am looking for something that will work with this combo and not make the engine sound to radical and choppy. If i leave a little power behind i'm ok with that. Its supposed to be sleeperish. I can lie about cast iron colored block huggers and say i couldent find any date code correct exhaust manifolds so i used these. Though i doubt most people will ever notice them anyways.

Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
Matt
 
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moparmat2000 said:
Ok, heres the overview on the engine driveline, and useage. I have a 1977 360 i am turning into a 408. Using KB745 pistons with a 20.50 dished volume, cometic .040" headgaskets, eagle H beam rods, 4340 forged 4" stroker crank from ohio crankshaft. I will be using an eddy performer RPM intake thats port matched to a pair of procomp aluminum heads 65cc with 2.02-1.60 valves w chevy diameter stems, an eddy 750 carb, and hedman block huggers. Mopar electronic dist fired with an HEI module. 4 speed manual OD trans and 3.73 rear end gears.

I plan on beefing up the trans before this goes in so i dont blow the gears in it, eventually will buy an A588 OD from Jamie Passon. I plan on driving the car freeway, maybe strip duty once and awhile, do some jack rabbit starts at traffic lights to startle the honduh crowd. Mostly general funning around etc.

Engine will outwardly appear stock 1967. Going for the restored sleeper look of a stock dressed looking 273 2bbl not commando. I want people to walk past it at a show without giving it a second look.

Now for my cam question. I am looking for something that will work with this combo and not make the engine sound to radical and choppy. If i leave a little power behind i'm ok with that. Its supposed to be sleeperish. I can lie about cast iron colored block huggers and say i couldent find any date code correct exhaust manifolds so i used these though i doubt most people will miss em anyways.

Any help would be appreciated
Thanks
Matt
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I would call three or four of the cam Grinders people are going to recommend and see which way the pendulum swings. I think I went a little too radical my first time and just a tad conservative this time. Had I chose something slightly in the middle towards what I have now I would have probably not changed my cam. But nevertheless I was happy with what I got both times. Me personally, I called Ken at Oregon cam grinding. gave me confidence having an in-depth conversation with the owner and subsequently he drag races with his cam profiles also. also when you think about it I'm sure car cams are only a small portion of the different kinds of cams that they grind. But, I would call others too that are recommended and again see what the consensus is. My-2
 
Thanks j par
I will give him a call after i get the short block together. Its going to be a bit of a financial push for me to get it to a long block through the winter. I have the rods, just bought the pistons from another member, and dropping some cash on that forged crank. Plus the machine work.

I will chronicle the buildup on my 67 restoration thread as i go. I will have a nice 360 crank and 8 rods to sell though.
 
Missing tire size.
What is the OD ratio of the Pason trans?
When you say, “Look like a 273 on the outside...”
What do you mean? You will already have the aftermarket intake, heads and shorty headers.
 
"Appear" like a stock 273. Stock valve covers and everything painted heads and all 1967 commando red. Intake is my performer RPM with the markings ground off and Eddy 750. My electronic dist with hidden HEI 4 pin. Those in the know will spot everything, but the casual observer, honduh, chivvy, or furd guy probably wont. Would prefer to use my 68 340 hi performance exhaust manifolds to complete the look, but i know they will leave some horsepower on the table. This is why the headers and them being painted cast iron gray.

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Tire diameter is going to be 25.5" dia. 255 60R15. Remember "appear" stock. 15x7 steelies body color with blackwalls and dog dish caps. May concider 15x8 custom made steelies with just the right offset on the rear to fit the stock wheel wells. I believe the passon 5 speed OD is .7 overdriven like the A833 OD is but gives an extra gear and a closer more evenly spaced ratio between all 5 gears. The A833 OD by contrast is essentially 1,2,4,OD for lack of a better discription.
 
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3.73 X .70 = 2.6— final drive ratio.
255/60-14 or 15 inch wheels?

I would look at cams no larger than 220 @.050. Plus 10* for a solid flat tappet cam at max.
 
I like your style, Kind of like mine... I built a 1970 dart to be stock looking to the casual observer too... It's a 383 400 HP 436 ft/lbs of torque, custom hydraulic roller cam that idles with 17" of vacuum. Tin valve covers and edelbrock performer RPM painted, heck I even painted the fancy billet timing cover for the roller cam. Holley sniper injection, A518 trans, 3.91 gears, Mickey Thompson ET Street SS tires. I also got the headers coated like cast iron. I like Mike Jones for custom cams. Jones Cams

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dartgarth said:
I like your style, Kind of like mine... I built a 1970 dart to be stock looking to the casual observer too... It's a 383 400 HP 436 ft/lbs of torque, custom hydraulic roller cam that idles with 17" of vacuum. Tin valve covers and edelbrock performer RPM painted, heck I even painted the fancy billet timing cover for the roller cam. Holley sniper injection, A518 trans, 3.91 gears, Mickey Thompson ET Street SS tires. I also got the headers coated like cast iron. I like Mike Jones for custom cams. Jones Cams

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Hiding in plain sight. Thats exactly what i want.
 
rumblefish360 said:
3.73 X .70 = 2.6— final drive ratio.
255/60-14 or 15 inch wheels?

I would look at cams no larger than 220 @.050. Plus 10* for a solid flat tappet cam at max.
Click to expand...

I agree with rumblefish. Are you looking for a hydraulic flat tappet or mechanical? Roller?

Something like this could work Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam - Chrysler 273-360 262/268 - Lunati Power
or this if you can go a bit more exotic.. Voodoo Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Cam - Chrysler 273-360 270/279 - Lunati Power

Garth
 
Hydraulic flat tappet.
Also kinda wondering ballpark what this combination would yield in HP and torque.
 
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Call Dwayne Porter at Porter Racing Heads for a cam.
 
exactly the way i like to see them, most people walk on by my car without a glance.
As for the cam,keep it around .220 like Rumble suggest with hi lift and
your manifolds will be fine.Headers don't benefit cams with short over lap very much.
 
What do you guys think about a rollmaster timing chain set, and use a mopar chain tensioner?
 
Also looking at purchasing these parts as well. I want this thing to live a looong time. Crank is internal balance.

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I am not familiar with the rocker arm & balancer company.
 
My machinest swears by em. He just built a 408 for a guy recently, was very happy with these.
 
Got a Rollmaster CS5010 billet nitrided steel gear and chain set for $74 new shipped. Howd i do that when they are $115-$125 plus shipping most places? Apply for an Amazon credit card that i will never use, and get an instant $50 gift card to apply towards the purchase, free trial of Prime for free shipping and cancel it within 30 days. When the card arrives, call em up and cancel it. I felt like i was selling my soul a little bit with that one lol.
 
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I don't know about the balancer or rocker brand, I run the Crane iron rockers in my engine.

Garth
 
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