Not the braking I want

-
Understood,but the point is the relationship of frt. piston dia. to the
rear brakes,which are not a new setup. Smaller rotors than mopar
teamed up w/those rears are already at a disadvantage,let alone the
teeny caliper pistons,it would take a small MC bore w/extra travel to
apply the same force to the rotors OE's would've. To come up w/the
desired frt./rear balance, something's got to change,or add an adj.
proportioning valve to the rear line.
In no way would I put drilled/slotted nonsense on your truck unless
you simply like the appearance, you're actually decreasing the friction
surface w/that stuff. Better pads as suggested are a smarter move.
 
Got all my new brake parts installed and bled, pedal feels much better but I need to get it out and test everything out. It does seem like I have a lot of drag on the front rotors now (turning the hub by hand)? Is this just because everything is new?
 
Some discs drag more than others, but a quick hyd. check is to pump the pedal up hard, then try to rotate the
hub. If it's tite,crack the bleeder(have the wrench on it & ready),if it releases immediately and "burps" there is pressure trapped in there. If not,make sure the pins are
lubed w/silglyde or equivalent grease, and that you can
pull out on the caliper firmly so that it "frees-up" by hand.
 
schmitt said:
Got all my new brake parts installed and bled, pedal feels much better but I need to get it out and test everything out. It does seem like I have a lot of drag on the front rotors now (turning the hub by hand)? Is this just because everything is new?
Click to expand...
Probably...sometimes they are that way. Disc brakes count on the pistons seals to distort when they apply, and when released, the seals 'undistort' and pull the pistons back. There may be some assembly grease in the bores yet. I'd not worry about it 'til I drove it. Just stop regularly when you have not been using the brakes much and see if the fronts are hot; if so, then something is dragging.
 
Well I have great brakes now!! Only put on about 5 miles the other day and all was good took it out for a couple miles today and good brakes but I had a bit of a squeal again.
Could my brake foot pedal be adjusted to long not letting it return all the way?
 
Well, I doubt that the pedal has an adjustment but the rod could possibly be too long. If you just drive and don't use the brakes, and then gradually stop, there should be very little heat in the brakes. Is this the case?

Are these the same pads? If so, then I suspect the pad material for the squeal. Is it correct that this squeal occurs only when you apply the brakes? If so, then see if you can get some anti-squeal 'goop' to apply on the back of the pads.

Glad to hear things are better now!
 
nm9stheham said:
Well, I doubt that the pedal has an adjustment but the rod could possibly be too long. If you just drive and don't use the brakes, and then gradually stop, there should be very little heat in the brakes. Is this the case?

Are these the same pads? If so, then I suspect the pad material for the squeal. Is it correct that this squeal occurs only when you apply the brakes? If so, then see if you can get some anti-squeal 'goop' to apply on the back of the pads.

Glad to hear things are better now!
Click to expand...

Yeah I shortened the pedal Rod a touch to give that a shot. ( raining now)

Brand new pads, rotors, and calipers. Put some anti squeal goop on when assembled.

It only happened for a little bit but seemed to be doing it with very little pedal but I should drive it a bit more to be more accurate.
 
Dunno if you have had a chance to perform any pad bedding process, but that might help. If you want, get a fresh pad surface for re-bedding, by sanding the pads with a piece of drywall sanding mesh, about 180 grit, laid on a very flat surface.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top