O.k. I have decided on my set up! How is this???

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myasylum

myasylum

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It took time and some reading, but I think I've got it down of what I'm going to do. If someone could let me know if this sounds like a good set up or overkill please let me know!

ok. I have a 360 and I am going with Lunati 60402 cam, RPM Air Gap Intake, 750 Edelbrock (or Holly) Carb (I think). Performance angle valve job, milled .030. I'm going to try to port match the intake/heads myself, Comp 901-16 springs with .20 shims (instead of the double springs Lunati suggest), Headers, 2500-2800 Stall with a rebuild 904 Tranny. My rear end is a stock 3.21, which i figure is good enough considering it is stock for a while.

I think that is all. Should that get me +300hp?

Thanks!
 
YUP! Im gonna take a stab and say better than 330h.p and somewhere around 400ft/lb tq
 
Sounds like a great setup. Try to get at least 9.5:1 compression with milling the heads. Should be well over 300 HP with that setup too; mostly depends on the extent/skill of your head porting.
 
myasylum said:
It took time and some reading, but I think I've got it down of what I'm going to do. If someone could let me know if this sounds like a good set up or overkill please let me know!

ok. I have a 360 and I am going with Lunati 60402 cam, RPM Air Gap Intake, 750 Edelbrock (or Holly) Carb (I think). Performance angle valve job, milled .030. I'm going to try to port match the intake/heads myself, Comp 901-16 springs with .20 shims (instead of the double springs Lunati suggest), Headers, 2500-2800 Stall with a rebuild 904 Tranny. My rear end is a stock 3.21, which i figure is good enough considering it is stock for a while.

I think that is all. Should that get me +300hp?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Use the Lunati springs. Trust me, I am running the 268/276 lunati with comp beehive springs, and have had nothing but issues with lifters......

And the shims, check your closed height, I bet you don't need em, and even cant even get to your installed height with stock retainers on stock heads.


Oh, tuned, you should be able to get 1HP per inch.
And if your going around 2500 stall, why not up the cam? Lunati's work good with stockish compression.
 
It's been a debate if I should go to the next cam up. A lot of people on the board thought it might be too much and wishful thinking. Some of you on the other hand think it would be a good idea. I'm unsure till myslef. I still could return it, but I don't know??

and... I have NO experience porting heads. I'm going to try though. I think with patience I should be able to do alright. It's just going to take time. I don't think I could screw up much unless I go totally hog wild.

Thanks for your opinions, that's exactly what I wanted. What about the carb? There seems to be a big debate between Holly, and Edelbrock. Also if I even need a 750, 600 might be good enough??

Thanks guys!!
 
Porting heads is not too hard, just don't go nuts doing it and try and keep in mind where the water jackets are. you mainly want to clean out the castings where the valves go into the head, (bring them out to the edge of the seats) and port match them to your gaskets. Be sure to get some carbide burrs and use an air powered die grinder, the only way to fly.
 
Just smooth the ports out a little bit, gasket match, and blend the valve job. It is not real expensive to have a shop do that work.

I would go with a Eddie 650 AVS. It is a very nice carb and would work well on the street. Sure a bigger carb might give you more top end on the drag strip at the expense of throttle response. I would stay away from 750 Edelbrock carbs, have heard of too many issues with them. I would not go 750 unless you go with more cam and go Holley if you go bigger.

Get the compression up to 9.5:1 like others have said. Best way is with the right pistons.

I think the cam is good for a nice street / strip car. Little on the mild side though. Don't go with a bigger cam unless that compression is a good 9.5:1.

I think you are on the right path.
 
I'm worried with, ".020 shims under the valve springs"
Why shim the spring? Do you know what the added height will do to the rate/at what new pressure?
 
As far as shimming the valve springs that should only be done to get the install height where it needs to be. And there will be deviations in tolerances so not all springs should be shimmed the same. I bought one of these when I set my valve springs up:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRO-66902&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Here is a cheaper one if your install height is below 1.8" (mine was 1.85" so I had to go with the above):

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-900032&N=700+115&autoview=sku
 
Like I said before, you just can't slap shims in there. You need to measure the install height on each and every spring because all the parts are not blue printed and perfect. Each valve will require a different amount of shims to get the correct install height. So what you need is an assortment of shims
 
The heights better NOT be all over. If they are, get a new shop. The Serdii gets them within .001" of each other accross the head. No variance. I use new valves in every build, because decent stainless performance valves are cheap now, and I run OS to brign teh seats back out in the chamber. With cutting the spring pockets and the valve changes they better be exactly right.
 
Should still be measured anyway. My eddie heads Stage 2 ported from Shady Dell required different amount of shims to get the correct install height.
 
You don't need a cam bigger than that. .475" intake lift is plenty for a moderate street 360 build and more duration won't really be beneficial unless you up the compression and converter/gearing a bit more.
 
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