Od833 4speed in 64 valiant

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ike61

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I want to put one of these in my 64 valiant. Do I have to get an a body bell housing or will one out of a pickup work? Thanks
 
Bel lhousing has to match the OD input bearing (larger than non-OD 833) & the engine type (G, LA, B). I'm not aware of any body type differences, but then I do not have a truck parts manual, only passenger cars.
 
be careful with truck bellhousings , some require a different clutch set up that might not match your early a. The heavy duty set up causes extra wear on your clutch linkage and I hear you have to beef it up where the z bar attaches to the firewall. Just make sure you use a OD bellhousing and remember to cross reference your parts .
 
AJ/FormS said:
What engine ,what cam,
The ratios in this box are not the best for a hi-reving SBM.
It's not really a 4spd, but rather a 3plus1. And the o/d is somewhat fragile.
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I got a buddy who got a OD from me and put it in his 69 GTX 500 plus HP. He beats on it all the time and it's doing fine. Its been in the car for 2 yr.
 
BFG no slicks
3.55 think
My understanding is the case where's it where's out the gears are basically the same just turned around to make you overdraft. That's just what I've been told I'm not sure about that I just know he's doing fine with his.
 
This is the car

11817225_961620447192523_9056848699766833861_n.jpg
 
It's an O'D bell housing with the bigger bearing retainer. It's behind a 318. I'm basically mocking everything up and collecting parts right now. All I have is a 76 cast iron O'D Trans, 360, and clutch pedal assembly. My neighbor has a 80s dodge pickup with the bell housing in it. I didn't want to go through all the work removing it if it's not going to work
 
I dont think the truck bell will work in an early A as it runs the 11 inch clutch and would probably put the starter into the steering.
 
I tried to make that O/D work with my 360 in a 68S. It wasn't too bad with a 223* cam.But terrible withe the 292/508 Mopar cam. And with just a bit bigger cam; a 230* I finally gave up. I tried every rear end from 3.23 to 5.13 except a couple. It was always the same, the splits were just too far apart.I even bought a GearVenders O/D to split gears with. That was the answer, bringing the rpm drop to less than 1400. Very nice. But I could never get the split right for city driving.So I finally dumped it.
It will work super fine behind a high torque, low-rpm engine.
The 3.09low/Direct 4th box is super for my combo. with 3.23 or 3.55 you get a nice starter gear, and the 3.23s make hi-way driving a pleasure.
I'm still running the GV so it's 3.55s for me. The starter gear is 10.97, and o/d is 2.77. Pretty awesome!
If you keep the teener, and keep the stock cam in it,then the O/D is pretty nice.
If you drop the 360 in and keep it's stock cam, it will be very nice.If you start swapping in bigger cams, moving the torque peak ever higher, then it will soon show it's ugly side. You can put a dualplane and 4bbl on it. headers and free-flowing exhaust. etc; pretty much any thing that does not move the torque peak much higher and it will be ok.If you gear it to run out of steam at between 35 and 40mph in first, you will probably be ok.Put some decent springs on so the engine will rev to 5500. This will then be 3.55s.The Rs will drop to a tic under 3000,(from 5500) so she will need some torque to get out of that hole.Watch for signs of detonation on your plugs. You may have to slow your timing down. See; a regular 4-spd will suck the Rs down to only 4000,(from 5500) so that makes camming it a real pleasure, and the car will accelerate much harder in second.
Like I said ;for a high reving SBM, the ratios in this box are not the best.They can, however be made to work, in certain combos;Like a lightweight A, with hi-torque/low rpm engine.
 
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ike61 said:
It's an O'D bell housing with the bigger bearing retainer. It's behind a 318. I'm basically mocking everything up and collecting parts right now. All I have is a 76 cast iron O'D Trans, 360, and clutch pedal assembly. My neighbor has a 80s dodge pickup with the bell housing in it. I didn't want to go through all the work removing it if it's not going to work
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Is the overdrive transmission a body or truck transmission I'm confused. The 318 and 360 both have the same bellhouse pattern and if it's a light duty truck it should be 10 and a half inch clutch not 11 but you'll have to make sure. Pictures of what you have would be helpful.
 
i think the 64 a body tunnel is to small for a 10 1/2'' clutch bellhousing . i have a 64 barracuda with a 4spd . it only 10'' in the stock bellhousing . do to its small size of the cars tunnel . maybe a scatter shield type od is smaller , still must flatten the , and turn down the od of the release bearing retainer .
DSC07188.JPG
 
The Trans is out of a dart. The pickup is two wheel drive and that's about all I know at thisntime
 
the 10 1/2 bell should fit. might have to make a little room for exhaust. At least that's what I have planned for my 64
 
Get an aluminum small block bell housing, and take it and get the hole bored out to fit the bearing retainer on the 833OD tranny. The clutch linkage isn't going to line up anyway, so if it were me....a hydraulic setup would go on it. If you prefer to use linkage, Brewers makes early A conversion torque shafts to fit a 10" clutch SB bellhousing in an early A.
 
ike61 said:
I want to put one of these in my 64 valiant. Do I have to get an a body bell housing or will one out of a pickup work? Thanks
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Go to Passon Performance, or Brewers Performance websites. The easiest way is to get the correct bell housing. 75 up A or F body. It will be for a 10.5 clutch, 130 tooth flywheel. To get it to work in your early A, you will need a conversion Z bar, bell housing pivot bracket, and threaded adjuster rod. The bell housing will fit without body mods. The O/D will work fine in an early A. Is it a manual car now?
 
Since the LA based 318 had not gone into production model year 64, it's safe for me to assume it came out of a 67 > car. In addition to the shopping list that 66fs gave you in post 18, it will be necessary to insure the crankshaft is machined for a pilot bushing. This step was performed at the factory for all engines destined for MT cars.
FWIW Dept: Using the 72 Parts Manual as a reference source, the 340 & 318 use the same bell housing & clutch disk. Although both pressure plates are for 10½" clutches, they are different for parts number purposes. I've cracked a couple of 318/904 combos open and found the machining for the pilot bushing done, but it's fairly rare. It's sort of like finding disk brake MC & prop valve on a drum brake car.
 
66fs said:
Go to Passon Performance, or Brewers Performance websites. The easiest way is to get the correct bell housing. 75 up A or F body. It will be for a 10.5 clutch, 130 tooth flywheel. To get it to work in your early A, you will need a conversion Z bar, bell housing pivot bracket, and threaded adjuster rod. The bell housing will fit without body mods. The O/D will work fine in an early A. Is it a manual car now?
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It was a three speed on the column with no motor or Trans. It has the clutch pedals and I have a floor hump too.
 
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