Oil Change Question?

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Mr.FT

Mr.FT

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Hi All,
I have a question on oil changes on a car that I put @ 500 -700 miles a year on. A little background, the car is my 72 Demon 340, I use Valvoline VR1 10/30 racing oil with a Wix filter. I change the oil and filter once a year at the beginning of show season. Some people are telling me that is over kill and I should only have to change it every two years. I look at it as cheap insurance. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Tom
 
i've gone 3 or 4 years as long as it's reasonably clean...and yes rub it between your fingers to check it too!
 
It's what ever makes you comfortable. Some say it is best to change at the end of the season having fresh oil while the car is in hibernation.This way acids and impurities are removed and not etching away at the internals while sitting. I change oil way often for vehicles that get less use during the year. My old truck sees about 1200 miles a year but is used 12 months so only about 100 miles a month. I change it once or twice a year because it does short drives 3 to 10 miles at a time.It has a carburetor and I worry about cylinder wash. Your call.
 
ir3333 said:
i've gone 3 or 4 years as long as it's reasonably clean...and yes rub it between your fingers to check it too!
Click to expand...


I agree , I will also go a year or more between oil changes on cars that I do not use often . If oil is sitting in a container on a shelf in my garage for a year or so or in the oil pan of my Mopar what difference is there really ?
 
Hi Tom,
I am in the same mileage boat as you, maybe even a bit less. I also use Valvoline 10W30 VR 1 oil (part #VV205 ) with either a Wix or Baldwin oil filter. I change my oil in the late fall before she takes a nap. My reasoning for the fall change is because of all the acids in the oil that have accumulated during the Spring/ Summer driving. I don’t want that stuff sitting in the crankcase during the Winter. Food for thought...
Take Care,
Greg
 
VR-1 is racing oil and does not have the additives in it for storage or long term use and I would for sure change it at least once a year.
 
Being raised on a farm and employed as a heavy equipment mechanic I change it by hours and not the calendar or miles. Some engines idle more than they are driven.
 
Not going to be a popular opinion, but I feel the VR1 is overkill and in fact a bad oil for cars that are stored. I recently learned way more about VR1 and other racing oils than I ever wanted or cared to.
VR1 is racing oil that has a heavy zinc content. Not meant for cars that are used for cruising or daily use. No more than 500-700 miles. You go racing over the weekend and change it. The oil is missing detergents that are needed for daily use and/or storage. It should never be considered if there will be an extended period of time between changes.
It was, in fact, strongly recommended to me by a person in the automotive petroleum to use a credible high mileage motor oil. There is a higher concentration of detergents and additives in the high mileage oil. Not necessary on newer cars, but a good idea for longer periods of time between oil changes.
He also made a point to recommend synthetics. I've never been completely sold on synthetics, but I've never really had any issues with them.
Good luck.
 
My biggest concern would be condensation.
 
Im running mobil one 15w-50 in my 340 as per the engine builders reccomendation. Could it go longer than 1 year between oil changes? Sure. But i can change the oil for less than $50 bucks a year for the oil and mobil one filter. Oil is cheap. You cant change it too often. Ill stick to my once a year ritual of changing both fuel filters and changing the oil.
 
usually change at the beginning of the season. didn't last year because we had hardly any miles on the oil because i put the motor in so late in the year..

i use driven racing oil that is specifically designed for a car that sits a lot during the year, so even if i go every other year changing it i'll be fine with it..

here is what i'm using... Joe Gibbs Driven HR-2 Conventional High Performance Motor Oil 02006

"Joe Gibbs Driven HR-2 conventional high performance motor oil provides excellent startup and storage protection for small block engines and crate motors. Using oil additive technology developed for the US military's combat equipment, this multi-grade, high zinc content formula delivers proper anti-wear protection for older-style pushrod and flat-tappet engines. The same chemistry that's found in the Joe Gibbs Driven racing oil that has powered Joe Gibbs Racing to multiple NASCAR championships offers superior camshaft wear protection."
 
gunbunny said:
Not going to be a popular opinion, but I feel the VR1 is overkill and in fact a bad oil for cars that are stored. I recently learned way more about VR1 and other racing oils than I ever wanted or cared to.
VR1 is racing oil that has a heavy zinc content. Not meant for cars that are used for cruising or daily use. No more than 500-700 miles. You go racing over the weekend and change it. The oil is missing detergents that are needed for daily use and/or storage. It should never be considered if there will be an extended period of time between changes.
It was, in fact, strongly recommended to me by a person in the automotive petroleum to use a credible high mileage motor oil. There is a higher concentration of detergents and additives in the high mileage oil. Not necessary on newer cars, but a good idea for longer periods of time between oil changes.
He also made a point to recommend synthetics. I've never been completely sold on synthetics, but I've never really had any issues with them.
Good luck.
Click to expand...

That's funny, I've run nothing but Valvoline Racing oil for the last 40 years in everything from a 1964 HP 273 Barracuda, to 1996 ACR Neon all daily drivers, all still run like new, 250K to 300K miles on them. Some cars sit for over a year. Either 20W50 or straight 30. I change oil and filter every 3K. I like post #6. Joe Gibbs oil is good also.
 
Dropped an engine in a corvette for a buddy. Break in oil is still in it, told him to drive it 500 km’s and bring it back for a service and a leak check. That was a year ago.
Even if it didnt reach the mark,it still should come back.

My classic will get fresh oil at the end of the season regardless of the mileage.
 
318MoparGuy said:
Hi Tom,
I am in the same mileage boat as you, maybe even a bit less. I also use Valvoline 10W30 VR 1 oil (part #VV205 ) with either a Wix or Baldwin oil filter. I change my oil in the late fall before she takes a nap. My reasoning for the fall change is because of all the acids in the oil that have accumulated during the Spring/ Summer driving. I don’t want that stuff sitting in the crankcase during the Winter. Food for thought...
Take Care,
Greg
Click to expand...
Hi Guys,
I think we need clarification on the VR 1 racing oils...as I stated above I use VR1 10W30 part#VV205 for increased zinc/ phosphorus content for my flat tappet 318. There is also a VR1 racing oil NSL (Not Street Legal) part#VV850 that is only meant to be used for less than 500 miles for real racing applications as it has higher zinc/ phosphorus and probably no detergents. I hope this info brings to light the differences and puts any concerns about using VR1 (VV205) to rest. I have been using Valvoline in all my Mopars through the years and they have always done their job.
Take Care,
Greg
 
318MoparGuy, I am also using the VV205 not the NSL oil as recommended by the local speed shop. I like your recommendation of the fall change, I may switch and do that this year. Tom
 
I prefer to do mine in the spring, april/may. That way i have fresh oil in for the summer heat and know im good. If the oil breaks down any by the end of fall it wont matter as much through the winter months.
 
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