Oil dipstick tube install?

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jabdusty57

jabdusty57

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Ok - any suggestions on how to install the next oil dipstick tube I'll buy without destroying it?
 

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x2 on removing the chrome. get a boxed end wrench (3/8") i think, slide it down the dipstick tube until it stops and that little ring, then tap the wrench with a small hammer. :)
 
Good idea about removing the chrome. There was way too much resistance when I was taping it in. Thanks.
 
I didn't remove all the chrome on mine. I did bevel the edge with a file, though.

The best route that I've found is to use a screwdriver with a plastic handle that you don't care to beat up a little, slide it down into the tube until the handle butts up against the opening, then hit it with a metal hammer. It will mar the screwdriver handle a tiny bit, but it gives you great control with the handle to keep it centered and it keeps the the install pressure/ impact centered, also. First shot, no problems.

When they are straight, the tube looks and is a bit close to the head. Just let it go in close to the head/ block at that short distance from the head, then bend it out to your liking a bit, after it's in. Don't go too far forward when you bend it or you'll have fun getting the fuel pump in.
 
mine was really tight, I cut a metal rod to fit snug inside the tube with a little oil. it was about 1" longer than the tube and I peened the top end over a tight fitting nut to make a good surface area for tapping it in.

Dave's screwdriver idea is probably sufficient and much easier, but I wanted to make sure I didn't pinch the bottom while driving it in.

engine was still on an engine stand so I also inspected the underside to make sure no swarf etc was created. also gave it a good blow with the air gun and wiped it with turps for good measure. yes, I'm anal about this kinda thing.

God knows what I'll have to do if I ever want to get it out again.
 
Mine was firm to drive in (Lol sounds like a porno!!) just applied some oil to the tip prior and tapped it in.Like frosty s mine was on the stand with the sump off so you could check and clean it properly if needed.
 
I use a crowsfoot socket that fits without sliding over the bottom lip. Then I put an extension on and tap it in...works great when the engine is in the car.
 
Hit that tube with some 80 grit sand paper to take off some of that chrome. Then put tube in the freezer for an hour, that will cause the metal to shrink slightly. Then use a heat gun to heat up the block to expand it slightly. This will give you a few thousands of clearance. I slid a small socket down the tube that fit snug around the collar, then stacked sockets up the tube, and tapped it in from the top.
 
Before trying to install a new chrome one in my new stroker I measured it to see how much diff there was and found it was about .010" bigger than the hole. That's a huge difference so I carefully filed some of the chrome off then put it in a freezer for a couple hrs and when installing it I inserted a snug fitting long Phillips screwdriver in it, applied a little grease to the end and tapped it in place. Was still a tight fit. Hope I never have to take it back out.
 
340sFastback said:
Hit that tube with some 80 grit sand paper to take off some of that chrome. Then put tube in the freezer for an hour, that will cause the metal to shrink slightly. Then use a heat gun to heat up the block to expand it slightly. This will give you a few thousands of clearance. I slid a small socket down the tube that fit snug around the collar, then stacked sockets up the tube, and tapped it in from the top.
Click to expand...

Metal, bearing races, dipstick tube, etc.. in the freezer to shrink... yes.

But, Hmmmm... many people also say heat the hole in the block to expand it, but in the case of putting heat around a hole in an engine block, my thoughts are that the hole would constrict, since, it seems to me, the expanding, heated, metal would more easily expand toward an empty cavity (the hole), than expand into the cold, restricting, solid metal of the entire block. Heating a simple washer, or ring... then yes, I believe the hole would expand. I think of it this way... if you heated the entire block in a furnace, my brain tells me that any small holes in the block will constrict (heating metal expands toward least resistance). When I put a heat on a bound stud, I don't heat the surrounding metal, just the stud... to expand it before letting it cool and torquing it out. Food for thought and opinions anyway.
 
Put it in the freezer overnight and it will slip right in.
 
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