Oil filter 90 degree adapter Vs stock oil filter plate

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DartVadar

DartVadar

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So today I was going to put on my oil filter and don't know which one I should use. I would think for simplicity sake the stock oil filter plate would be less prone to leak, because I've read on here some people have leaks even with the correct gasket set.

If I use the stock oil filter plate is it recommended that I drill four more holes into it? it currently has 4. What is the gasket kit for this? Isn't it a simple O-ring? Would this fit with a set of LT headers? If not I guess I'll have to use the 90 degree adapter.

Now my question about the adapter is about the bolt that comes with it has two offset holes that go through it. I've read from somebody on here that I would need to use a different bolt for a high volume oil pump, Is this correct?? I don't know how reliable that source was, and they weren't too sure either.

Now about the adapter gaskets, would this be the correct kit? At least this isn't really a big issue. Thanks.

http://moparperformance.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/37213/P5249320
 
I would not use the 90° adapter unless you really need it. It has more potential leak paths than just going with stock plate.


I have used the regular non 90° plate with high volume high pressure pumps for over 20 years, you'll be fine.
 
krazykuda said:
I would not use the 90° adapter unless you really need it. It has more potential leak paths than just going with stock plate.


I have used the regular non 90° plate with high volume high pressure pumps for over 20 years, you'll be fine.
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Yea I don't really want to use it if I don't have too either, as you said more places to leak.
 
it may depend on which headers - Dougs or TTIs use the straight one with the short filter without any issues.
 
krazykuda said:
I would not use the 90° adapter unless you really need it. It has more potential leak paths than just going with stock plate.


I have used the regular non 90° plate with high volume high pressure pumps for over 20 years, you'll be fine.
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X2. I use the "short" 51068 Wix and it fit on my Hedmans which will not go back on. I was going with manifolds, LOL, until the "Doug's" sale came along, and I could not help myself LOL

do-not-push-button-o.gif
 
Damn I already have a few of the regular sized filters...and I don't want to run manifolds, The ones that came with my 360 were kinda mangled up and are in bad shape so I don't want to use them.

To make things easier should I just use the 90 degree adapter? And are those adapters prone to leaking?
 
DartVadar said:
If I use the stock oil filter plate is it recommended that I drill four more holes into it? it currently has 4.
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Absolutely.


Don't use that POS 90* adapter unless you must. Did I mention they are a POS? They are also very restictive to the oil system.
 
crackedback said:
Absolutely.


Don't use that POS 90* adapter unless you must. Did I mention they are a POS? They are also very restictive to the oil system.
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Okay I won't use that 90*. And I'll probably buy a oil filter mounting plate with a rubber gasket on it.

So what are my options then? Short oil filter like already stated? Or can I just make some extra room for the filter by bringing out the ole hammer to beat on the headers a bit?

Damn I didn't think this was going to be a problem.
 
So you want to buy new headers and then beat the snot out of them to get a longer filter to fit. Call me crazy, I wouldn't do that under any circumstances, especially if the headers are coated. No way, no how!
 
DartVadar said:
Okay I won't use that 90*. And I'll probably buy a oil filter mounting plate with a rubber gasket on it.

So what are my options then? Short oil filter like already stated? Or can I just make some extra room for the filter by bringing out the ole hammer to beat on the headers a bit?

Damn I didn't think this was going to be a problem.
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Back in the day, I worked at a 10 min oil change that used Fram filters. The Ford filter was an 8A which could hold a full quart. The shorter version was the Mopar filter a Fram 43 and it was a 3/4 quart filter. I don't like Fram anymore after some of their filters blew up a couple of my engines, so I would recommend cross referencing the Fram 43 filter to a Purolater or Wix....
 
Another thing thats nice about the plate is, stock it has 4 holes..... well you can drill 4 more in it 90 deg from each other & have 8 holes 2x the flow. Even the magnum motors have 6 holes in them.
 
crackedback said:
So you want to buy new headers and then beat the snot out of them to get a longer filter to fit. Call me crazy, I wouldn't do that under any circumstances, especially if the headers are coated. No way, no how!
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Well not if I don't have too! lol If a short filter fits I will just use that and see if I can sell the three regular filters that I already have. But like already stated sometimes those don't even fit. Is buying some tti or dougs headers the only options? Or can I just deal with unbolting a header during an oil change and use the short filter? Because I don't really want to spend 700 bucks on headers since the car won't see any kind of weather other than sun. Being a college student with a small budget doesn't help either! LOL
 
I never knew there was an issue with the 90 degree filter thing. Good to know.
 
Coated dougs are under 500 from autozone. Don't know how far from the border you are, might be a good choice.

They say free shipping on orders over $75... couldn't find anywhere it said US only on the site.
 
crackedback said:
Coated dougs are under 500 from autozone. Don't know how far from the border you are, might be a good choice.
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I didn't know they were that cheap, but I'm a fair ways from the border. My grandparents are in the states though so they could potentially pick them up for me when they drive back in march. But my main problem with coated headers is that if you spill oil on them or anything they look like crap afterwords. That's what my uncle told me after he built his coronet, he just said to buy some cheaper uncoated ones as they wont see any kind of weather.

I may be able to get them locally, I haven't really looked at headers yet, and yea I can get them online for a pretty good price.
 
FWIW, I moved my oil filter on my V6 Dakota, an '03. A relocation kit is inexpensive. You HAVE to pay attention and take care during installation. I can not seem to get the lines at the block side to stop weeping. Though they do bend a bit. The kit came with basic better than rubber oil lines and work clamps. Brass fittings into the adapter plate. You can do better.

Food for thought
 
rumblefish360 said:
FWIW, I moved my oil filter on my V6 Dakota, an '03. A relocation kit is inexpensive. You HAVE to pay attention and take care during installation. I can not seem to get the lines at the block side to stop weeping. Though they do bend a bit. The kit came with basic better than rubber oil lines and work clamps. Brass fittings into the adapter plate. You can do better.

Food for thought
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I was considering that, but does the extra length that the oil has to take for the oil to circulate though the filter cause issues? If not I think I'll just install one of those kits because like you mentioned they are cheap. Because those damn filters are hard to change with manifolds! I had some fun changing the oil on my 318 before I decided to throw a 360 in.
 
Ive had it on my Dakota for a cousmof years without issue. No oil pressure drop on the factory gauge.
 
Food for thought, headers are like batteries, the more you drive it the longer they last. What kills headers is condensation while the car is parked. Drive it frequently and the condensation burns out.

The same principal applies to the rest of the exhaust.
 
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