Oil gallery plug removal tool

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Dustert73

Dustert73

Stripping bolts since ‘10
Joined
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Hey everyone, I have a 360 magnum but I'm assuming its the same for the LA's as well. I need to get the tool to remove the little oil passage/gallery plugs at the back of the block. I thought it was just going to be a 3/8 extension but its too big. Can i get this tool from advance auto or lowes or related? If so what is it?
 
I can't remember what size they are for sure. A plug socket works best. They look just like a adapter but don't have a spring loaded ball like the adapter does (which is a huge weak point.) Regardless of size, insert the tool in the plug and give it a few taps with a hammer to help loosen the plug threads before you crank on it with a ratchet. It will come out easier that way. Here's a photo of a old MAC set.
plug.jpg
 
If you have an acetylene torch there, heat the plug to red hot. Not the block, the plug. Once it's a dull red, hit the plug with some WD-40 on the plug, or you can use wax or Marvels. When it cools a bit, you can take a regular screwdriver and screw it out by hand.


If you don't have a torch...you can easily booger up the plug even with the correct tool.
 
A trick I learned about taking out plugs, is to wack them with a hammer as I turn them out. I use a piece of 5 1/16 square stock, turn it with a Crescent wrench. Some sb Mopar plugs take hex keys, I use hex bits, turn them with a breaker bar.

Good luck!
 
Thanks for the replies everyone, I went into town and picked up some 5/16 square stock for like 3 bucks. Cut off a small portion of it, used a 3/8 (from what i remember) 12 point socket and my 3/8 electric impact driver. Even hitting it with a liberal amount of Pb and wacking with a hammer a few times it totally just twisted the square stock right around, it kinda looks artsy lol. If my phone wasn't broke id throw some pics up on here.

Tomorrow I'm going to grind down a old 3/8 extension like Kim said, and hit it with some heat and see what happens. If that doesn't work I'll prob have to invest in a kit with the right tool.
 
Dustert73 said:
Thanks for the replies everyone, I went into town and picked up some 5/16 square stock for like 3 bucks. Cut off a small portion of it, used a 3/8 (from what i remember) 12 point socket and my 3/8 electric impact driver. Even hitting it with a liberal amount of Pb and wacking with a hammer a few times it totally just twisted the square stock right around, it kinda looks artsy lol. If my phone wasn't broke id throw some pics up on here.

Tomorrow I'm going to grind down a old 3/8 extension like Kim said, and hit it with some heat and see what happens. If that doesn't work I'll prob have to invest in a kit with the right tool.
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If you have enough heat it will come out by hand. You don't need anything special. I have a screw driver laying there that I use to screw them out if they are hex or six sided.
 
You need tool steel. Not cold rolled stock. Just did it last week on mine. They are no fun. But they will come out. Heat is your best bet.
 
I ground down an extension. Don;t normally need heat, but occasionally I do. You can also weld a nut onto if if you really booger it up. Then get a socket on the nut before it cools down...
 
yellow rose said:
Use a 284/.484 cam with a 3.73 gear, a Strip Dominator, a 750 double pumper and Hooker 5204 headers. At 2000 feet that's a 12.8X combo right there.


And don't forget you need the distributor recurved.

Then you are golden.
Click to expand...
Had the cam reground to pretty much 268 xe comp specs through Oregon cam regrind company, 600 eddy and air gap, hooker headers (hit on pretty much everything they could before bashing them to fit), and 3.23 gears. But with some pretty short tires. The thing turns like 3k at around 70, makes me think the shorter tires maybe increases the rear ratio? Not sure. I'm really going to try my hand at tuning with this 360, getting a vacuum gauge and a wideband at some point. The 318 i had in it before ran so good i didn't want to mess with it lol
 
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