Oil leak

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Charlesvolare

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I freshened up my 360 and got it back in my car today. Everything is good except for a fairly decent oil leak around the timing cover/oil pan. It's not at the corners, it's at the bottom like the pan isn't seated down tight. I used a cork gasket with rubber ends, Mr. Gasket 394, and I torqued the pan to 15 ft-lbs, however one of the bolts that goes into the corner of the timing cover seemed tight so that may not have been an accurate reading. It seems like a lot leaking for that, but I plan on rechecking everything an re-snugging the bolts. Is this something that's somewhat common, would it be worth it to pull the timing cover back off and re-seal it? It's not leaking at the corners and running down from what I can tell, just leaking out from the bottom.
IMG_20200105_171848.jpg
 
Well, you ain't gonna wanna hear it, but the "correct way" that comes apart and goes back together is to remove the oil pan, clean it all up GOOD, put the timing cover on FIRST, then the oil pan. That's how they are "supposed" to be assembled. I know a lot of people remove and replace the timing cover itself all the time, but you risk exactly what you are experiencing. Also, sometimes, that front rail on the oil pan does get bent down and upon retightening, does not compress that front rubber gasket enough to make a good seal. The only thing that will correct that is, once again, removing the oil pan and bending that rail back up in the correct position and reinstalling everything correctly.
 
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Well, you ain't gonna wanna hear it, but the "correct way" that comes apart and goes back together is to remove the oil pan, clean it all up GOOD, put the timing cover on FIRST, then the oil pan. That's how they are "supposed" to be assembled. I know a lot of people remove and replace the timing cover itself all the time, but you risk exactly what you are experiencing. Also, sometimes, that front rail on the oil does get bent down and upon retightening, does not compress that front rubber gasket enough to make a good seal. The only thing that will correct that is, once again, removing the oil pan and bending that rail back up in the correct position and reinstalling everything correctly.
I assembled it by loosely fitting the timing cover, installing dampener, then oil pan, torqueing oil pan, then tightening/torqueing timing cover. Oil pan was straight, while I had it off I welded in an oil baffle and made sure all the flanges were good.

I made a timelapse of most of the engine assembly:




00100lrPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20191215203617040_COVER.jpg
 
I agree with RRR, plus I looked at the picture of the oil pan. Is that welding inside the pan?
If so, it could be warped.

Rework is always the hardest.
 
I assembled it by loosely fitting the timing cover, installing dampener, then oil pan, torqueing oil pan, then tightening/torqueing timing cover. Oil pan was straight, while I had it off I welded in an oil baffle and made sure all the flanges were good.

I made a timelapse of most of the engine assembly:




View attachment 1715448492


That might have done it. The timing cover should have been tightened first. I'm not really sure it makes a difference, but that is the correct order. Also, I have seen NEW pans have that front rail bent down so it will not compress that front seal. It's certainly worth disassembling to get it right.
 
what about that toyota sealer
I usually use halomar to make everything slide together but this sounds like more
 
I'm guessing that it could be possible that the dampner isn't centered in the seal since the pan was torqued first? It didn't seem to be slinging oil but I didn't look too hard behind it since it was getting dark out. Would it worth a shot of just loosening everything and then torquing it back down timing cover first and then pan if I can get the timing cover separated from the block without tearing the gasket?
 
I'm guessing that it could be possible that the dampner isn't centered in the seal since the pan was torqued first? It didn't seem to be slinging oil but I didn't look too hard behind it since it was getting dark out. Would it worth a shot of just loosening everything and then torquing it back down timing cover first and then pan if I can get the timing cover separated from the block without tearing the gasket?

That's what I was thinking, but it sure would be nice to know if it's the seal or the pan to timing cover corners first.

Every time I have pulled and replaced the timing cover with the pan in place I had to use tapered pins or a couple of big phillips screw drivers to locate the cover back down tight against the pan rails.
Not doing this could very well offset the seal.
 
I'm guessing that it could be possible that the dampner isn't centered in the seal since the pan was torqued first? It didn't seem to be slinging oil but I didn't look too hard behind it since it was getting dark out. Would it worth a shot of just loosening everything and then torquing it back down timing cover first and then pan if I can get the timing cover separated from the block without tearing the gasket?
That is what I would try at this point.
 
That's what I was thinking, but it sure would be nice to know if it's the seal or the pan to timing cover corners first.

Every time I have pulled and replaced the timing cover with the pan in place I had to use tapered pins or a couple of big phillips screw drivers to locate the cover back down tight against the pan rails.
Not doing this could very well offset the seal.

Same here ^^^^^^^^^^
I ended up pulling both and straightening the timing cover up and welding a couple of little braces on it to reinforce it , then put the pan on like rrr said ---on a r/b tho .
 
I’m dealing with almost the same thing. I just changed everything out because the cover was corroded and losing coolant. Got the car running and it’s leaking at the crank seal, now. Very frustrating!

My friend suggested to put the cover on loosely, install the balancer and then tighten the cover bolts. Then do the oil pan bolts, that way the cover seal is centered on the balancer. Opinions on this method?
 
Yes, that is exactly what is being suggested to Charles for his seal leak.
I freshened up my 360 and got it back in my car today. Everything is good except for a fairly decent oil leak around the timing cover/oil pan. It's not at the corners, it's at the bottom like the pan isn't seated down tight. I used a cork gasket with rubber ends, Mr. Gasket 394, and I torqued the pan to 15 ft-lbs, however one of the bolts that goes into the corner of the timing cover seemed tight so that may not have been an accurate reading. It seems like a lot leaking for that, but I plan on rechecking everything an re-snugging the bolts. Is this something that's somewhat common, would it be worth it to pull the timing cover back off and re-seal it? It's not leaking at the corners and running down from what I can tell, just leaking out from the bottom.
View attachment 1715448481
Wish I would have read this before I put my motor in,now I got to pull it and redo the pan timing cover gaskets
 
Well, you ain't gonna wanna hear it, but the "correct way" that comes apart and goes back together is to remove the oil pan, clean it all up GOOD, put the timing cover on FIRST, then the oil pan. That's how they are "supposed" to be assembled. I know a lot of people remove and replace the timing cover itself all the time, but you risk exactly what you are experiencing. Also, sometimes, that front rail on the oil pan does get bent down and upon retightening, does not compress that front rubber gasket enough to make a good seal. The only thing that will correct that is, once again, removing the oil pan and bending that rail back up in the correct position and reinstalling everything correctly.


Right on !^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I even welded support braces on mine after I straightened it .
 
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