Oil Pressure

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spinman_1949

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Ok I have been working on the wiring and got that all sorted out. Put a new tranny yoke and new ujoints. Slop gone. Fixed the speedo cable issue and fixed the tranny selection slop.

This one has me stumped.

When I bought the car the oil pressure showed low at idle but it did increase with RPM. Now with a fresh build I am getting exactly the opposite. At start up oil pressure is over 60 PSI. Even when warm it stays up in that range. But bring the revs up and it drops !! The idiot light does not come on, but the pressure on the guage can drop to zero at around 3500 rpm. It almost seems like the guage is working in reverse.

Any quick way to check this? I really want to make that meet tomorrow night. I figure the engine is OK because before I noticed this I drove the car at least 300 miles if not more.

I am thinking the guage could be wired wrong, but that does not explain the fact that the guage registered in a more normal manner before the engine was rebuilt.
 
what kind of gauge are you using..? electric..stock or mechanical gauge?
 
Are you using the original oil gauge w /electrical sender? If so change the sending unit. Common occurrence.
 
It is an aftermarket electronic guage. Keep in mind it was working correctly prior to the build. I do have a mechanical guage but it is such a bear to access that area with the engine in. The idiot like is functioning, but not thrilled about trusting that.
 
Sorry I tend to forget to identify the car.

1969 Dart 340 GTS 727 No original guage.
 
Pull the wire off your sender, turn the iginition key on, see where your guage is at,it should be at zero, then ground the wire and see where your guage goes. When your wire is grounded the guage should go to max pressure. If it functions correctly checking it that way your sending unit is the problem.
 
one bad 440 said:
Pull the wire off your sender, turn the iginition key on, see where your guage is at,it should be at zero, then ground the wire and see where your guage goes. When your wire is grounded the guage should go to max pressure. If it functions correctly checking it that way your sending unit is the problem.
Click to expand...

He has an aftermarket gauge and this may or may not be true
 
Mechanical gauge is the way to go, ill help you if you need it.
Just pull the cap off the distributor and remove elec type and replace with the new line and fitting.

If anything shorted....good chance the elec sender is toast.

The galley plug was missing on one of the lifter galleys, that why the pressure sucked at idle before the rebuild. Your power problem was due to zero ring seal from thee most horrid hone job I'd ever laid eyes on..lol. That sucker runs nice now...and smooth.
I would never depend on an electronic oil psi gauge.
 
Well Justin and I took a look and it was just a loose connection. Oil pressure when hot is 50 PSI or better when hot. All is fine in the oil pressure world. LOL !!
 
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