We tried all day to remove the oild pump on my 65 Valiant with a 170. We got as close to as the pump shaft was completely out but because we couldn't tilt the motor any more at all it did not allow us to lift the oil pump out of the car. It's still too close to the passenger side frame. We tried every thing we could think of. We tried the procedure out of the 65 Valiant Chrysler service manual and it didn't even come close to working. I don't see how they followed that instruction back in the day because we followed it step by step and had all the tools and it didn't work at all. What way are you'll getting the oil pump out? If it's this hard to get out it will be just as much of a nightmare to get it back in. Any tricks. This is horrible design, defnitely not a roadside repair. It's a lot easier on my big block Charger, it's right up front on the bottom but I can't get it out on this Slant six. Everything is removed from that side too, nothing is the way except the K-frame. We had it pretty much out of the block and just couldn't get it up out between the motor and frame. I hated to give up for the night. Any tricks?
Oil pump change impossible on 65 Valiant 170
- Thread starter wh23g3g
- Start date
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grumpuscreature
Resident Curmudgeon
All of them I've ever changed were on an engine stand. It could be worse, '68 Cobra Jet Mustangs needed an engine pull to change the friggin spark plugs.
lowbudget
Mopar Man
When i did mine on the Aspen yesterday I went down with it to get it out. I had motor mount out to change bushing. I have read of people using a sissors jack to get the clearance. There is a lot of info over on org.
Thanks Mike
Thanks Mike
You said you tried everything. Did you try pulling the engine? Good God man, what is it? 12 bolts and a couple hoses and it's out. Buy the time you spent all that time in a wrestlin match, you could have had it back in by now. Why do people always pick the hard road? It just baffles the hell outta me.
66aCUDA
/6 Racer
If there is an easy way without pulling the engine I dont know about it. I have always heard about unbolting the pass side motor mount use a jack to jack up that side and pull it out. However I have NOT done it this way. Charrlie S would be the one to talk to to see if it can be done.
Frank
Frank
Take the right motor support apart and the trans support , along with anything else nessesary torotate the engine back to a straight up position.
Back in the day, everyone knew the slant 6 was the same Dodge engine just leaned over to lower the hood line. So to work on it , sometimes you need to stand it up again.
Hope this helps
Back in the day, everyone knew the slant 6 was the same Dodge engine just leaned over to lower the hood line. So to work on it , sometimes you need to stand it up again.
Hope this helps
slantsixdan
=..=
That's because the manual is assuming the engine mounts aren't sagged out, which yours probably are. See here for new urethane left and right mounts, and see here for new rear (trans) mount. Replace all three. In the meantime, unbolt the rear mount and the right mount and jack up the engine by the oil pan. It will rotate on the left mount and swing up on the right to give you clearance to R&R the oil pump.
Pfft. This is not "horrible design". Exactly nobody changes an oil pump on the roadside. Most people never change an oil pump at all; it's very low on the list of easy-access priorities.
Be glad it's not inside the crankcase.
805moparkid
Slant and AFX Guy
:cheers: aint slants great!
66dartman
Well-Known Member
when I had the /6 in mine it took about 1 hour to have it out, makes it much easier to do what you're doing and gives you an opportunity to clean it up & paint it.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Take a deep breath and start fresh! Like Dan said, be glad it is not in the crankcase! It's just a machine, nuts and bolts! Tilt the engine up and it will come out.
Why are you changing the pump? Are you sure the pickup is not clogged? If it is gunked up, new pump won't help.
Why are you changing the pump? Are you sure the pickup is not clogged? If it is gunked up, new pump won't help.
lowbudget
Mopar Man
On my Aspen I changed the left motor mount guts with a poly bushing when I had manifolds off. When I did oil pump I pulled distributor, unbolted right motor mount, pulled radiator shroud, jacked motor up, pulled motor mount changed to a poly bushing then pulled the pump and changed when everything was out of the way. To me the motor mount was tougher than the pump. I recurved dist, and put on new vac advance and put it all back together. I figured as long as I was on that side I might as well do it all as it needed it. The good news is it went back together way easier then it came apart.
Good luck Mike
Good luck Mike
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
The last oil pump I changed in the car was many years ago. It was my 65 Valiant, 170. If I remember correctly, I unbolted both motor mounts from the "K" member. Raised the engine with a hoist (though it could be done with a jack), and pried the engine over to the driver side. Remember the factory installed pump is "shorter" then the aftermarket replacement pumps, and the HV pumps are longer yet.
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