Oil Splitter Plug -- 360

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dust

dust

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How do you know if it is installed with the engine in the car and assembled?

'77 360 engine. (408 now)
 
If you mean the plug that separates the oil galleys you won't.

Having said that though I do believe this has been eliminated in newer production blocks, don't ask me what year though.
 
Sorry, I don't know the technical name.

It can also be called the oil filter bypass plug.
 
See above post.

Are you having a problem? Why don't you tell us the symptoms instead.

If you aren't then don't worry about it.
 
OK here's what you'll need to do. Pull the oil pan, oil pump, and the #5 main bearing cap. Measuring from the main cap mounting face up into the oil pump outlet hole on the passenger side of the block should only be between 1 1/2" and 1 3/4". Any more and it's either not there or pressed to far in.

Some blocks were machined (years ago) with out the step that would stop the plug so it got pressed in to far.

This plug separates the oil filter feed from the oil filter return.
 
Guitar Jones said:
OK here's what you'll need to do. Pull the oil pan, oil pump, and the #5 main bearing cap. Measuring from the main cap mounting face up into the oil pump outlet hole on the passenger side of the block should only be between 1 1/2" and 1 3/4". Any more and it's either not there or pressed to far in.

Some blocks were machined (years ago) with out the step that would stop the plug so it got pressed in to far.

This plug separates the oil filter feed from the oil filter return.
Click to expand...
I've been told that you could check if it is in place by inserting a rod down the Oil Pressure sending unit hole. When I perform this procedure, the result suggests the plug is not installed.

I'm trying to verify this technique since none of my books mention anything about a plug being there.
 
I've just checked 2 blocks I have here, one a 360 the other a 318. The 360 measures 7.5" from the pressure switch area down to the plug and the 318 measures 7.25". What measurement do you have?
 
raymond said:
I've just checked 2 blocks I have here, one a 360 the other a 318. The 360 measures 7.5" from the pressure switch area down to the plug and the 318 measures 7.25". What measurement do you have?
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Thanks for checking Raymond. I measure 12" on my 360 then it starts to wedge down to another 1".

My dad's 318 also measured 7.25".
 
Okay, I found the procedure in the Chrysler's Magnum engine book. Page 100-101; 7.5" is correct for Magnum's at least. I doubt LA is much different although the 318 is at 7.25".

The guys who built my shortblock forgot to install this plug in my 408, I've ran about 200 miles without the plug. That is why I asked.
 
The plug goes in from the bottom. So if it's not there you'll still need to remove the pan, pump and #5 main bearing.

These plugs are not normally removed or do they need to be installed. If a block has been hot tanked in a caustic solution though it may eat away at the plug. So yours may partially be there.
 
Guitar Jones said:
The plug goes in from the bottom. So if it's not there you'll still need to remove the pan, pump and #5 main bearing.

These plugs are not normally removed or do they need to be installed. If a block has been hot tanked in a caustic solution though it may eat away at the plug. So yours may partially be there.
Click to expand...

To properly clean the oil galleys during a rebuild, all of the plugs MUST be removed and the oil galleys need to be scrubbed with an oil galley brush. The key is to replace the plugs upon re-assembly.

Lee (former ASE-certified machinist)
1966 Barracuda, 340 4 speed
 
lilcuda said:
To properly clean the oil galleys during a rebuild, all of the plugs MUST be removed and the oil galleys need to be scrubbed with an oil galley brush. The key is to replace the plugs upon re-assembly.

Lee (former ASE-certified machinist)
1966 Barracuda, 340 4 speed
Click to expand...
How bad is it to run without the plug (without filtration) for the first 200 miles?
 
dust said:
How bad is it to run without the plug (without filtration) for the first 200 miles?
Click to expand...

Not good. The cylinder walls and rings do a lot of wearing in during this time and those small particles of metal are floating in the oil. Did you do an oil change after the first hour or so of running? If so, it won't be as bad, because you would have gotten alot of the metal out of the motor. I always change the oil & filter after about the first hours of running, sometimes less. When draining the oil the first time, it will look like metallic silver paint.

Lee
1966 Barracuda, 340 4 speed
 
lilcuda said:
Not good. The cylinder walls and rings do a lot of wearing in during this time and those small particles of metal are floating in the oil. Did you do an oil change after the first hour or so of running? If so, it won't be as bad, because you would have gotten alot of the metal out of the motor. I always change the oil & filter after about the first hours of running, sometimes less. When draining the oil the first time, it will look like metallic silver paint.

Lee
1966 Barracuda, 340 4 speed
Click to expand...
Haha, I don't remember it being that color but yes, I did change the oil after 30-40 minutes of running. Thanks for the info.
 
lilcuda said:
To properly clean the oil galleys during a rebuild, all of the plugs MUST be removed and the oil galleys need to be scrubbed with an oil galley brush. The key is to replace the plugs upon re-assembly.

Lee (former ASE-certified machinist)
1966 Barracuda, 340 4 speed
Click to expand...

This plug does not need to be removed to clean the oil galleys. It's only reason for being there is because of machine methods. Every passage can be reached without removing this plug.
 
Guitar Jones said:
This plug does not need to be removed to clean the oil galleys. It's only reason for being there is because of machine methods. Every passage can be reached without removing this plug.
Click to expand...

Not true. You may think That the oil galleys are clean, but if the motor was especially gunked up with sludge, residual sludge can be left up against the plug and then come loose after the new motor is fired up. For a 50 cent plug and 2 minutes of labor, I'm not going to take that chance.
 
lilcuda said:
Not true. You may think That the oil galleys are clean, but if the motor was especially gunked up with sludge, residual sludge can be left up against the plug and then come loose after the new motor is fired up. For a 50 cent plug and 2 minutes of labor, I'm not going to take that chance.
Click to expand...

Whatever you want to think, but this plug only exists because of the machining procedure. Chrysler does not recommend removing it nor does it need to be removed to reach every thousandths of an inch of the oil galleys.

Steve (30 year and still current Chrysler Certified Powertrain Master Tech)
 
It exists because of machining, but it MUST be removed to clean the galleys out properly. Anything that plugs a passage leaves a low volocity spot next to it. So debris will fall out of the oil stream and settle there. I've found several blockis that had two plugs, one on top of the other. But it must be installed to keep the oil flowing where it needs to go, as opposed to the path of least resistance. And every plug MUST be removed, and every passage must be brushed clean.
 
moper said:
It exists because of machining, but it MUST be removed to clean the galleys out properly. Anything that plugs a passage leaves a low volocity spot next to it. So debris will fall out of the oil stream and settle there. I've found several blockis that had two plugs, one on top of the other. But it must be installed to keep the oil flowing where it needs to go, as opposed to the path of least resistance. And every plug MUST be removed, and every passage must be brushed clean.
Click to expand...


OK, so if they changed the machining procedure and used a larger oil sender unit thread or bushed it down and eliminated the need for the plug what would you guys be removing then?

Think about it, there is no reason to remove that plug. It offers you no additional access to any oil passage. It is not an external plug.
 
Guitar Jones said:
Whatever you want to think, but this plug only exists because of the machining procedure. Chrysler does not recommend removing it nor does it need to be removed to reach every thousandths of an inch of the oil galleys.

Steve (30 year and still current Chrysler Certified Powertrain Master Tech)
Click to expand...

I understand that it exists because of the machining procedure. I guess we can agree to disagree. No point in arguing about this. It doesn't help the person who started the thread.
 
moper said:
It exists because of machining, but it MUST be removed to clean the galleys out properly. Anything that plugs a passage leaves a low volocity spot next to it. So debris will fall out of the oil stream and settle there. I've found several blockis that had two plugs, one on top of the other. But it must be installed to keep the oil flowing where it needs to go, as opposed to the path of least resistance. And every plug MUST be removed, and every passage must be brushed clean.
Click to expand...

I couldn't agree more!
 
Guitar Jones said:
OK, so if they changed the machining procedure and used a larger oil sender unit thread or bushed it down and eliminated the need for the plug what would you guys be removing then?

Think about it, there is no reason to remove that plug. It offers you no additional access to any oil passage. It is not an external plug.
Click to expand...

You are missing the point, but I'm done arguing about it.
 
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