ol' slant is dead... need help!

-
Does the pump Have anything in it that could be shaved down? I thought it was designed to have minimal moving parts.
 
?6's are cheap, I have a 198 in my garage I would let you have for a song and dance if you were a little closer.
 
marksmopars said:
?6's are cheap, I have a 198 in my garage I would let you have for a song and dance if you were a little closer.
Click to expand...

198's are rare! people will give good money for those as they make the long rod motor's with the rods in it
 
A whole lot fear mongering. I have overheated a slant many times with no problem. You drove only 1/4 mile? Boiling over didn't hurt engines in the days of cast iron blocks and heads, like yours. The knocking was likely "pinging" which is common when the head gets hot. It sounds like someone tapping the top of the engine with a hammer. It is a combustion event, not metal-metal contact.

It would take a long time for heat to get to the bearings. The pistons would go first since aluminum. I don't think rings could come off in shavings. When they failed in my M-B diesel, they broke in chunks and took pieces of aluminum off around the piston grooves.

Fix the hose, change the oil if it smells burnt. Check fluids. Start it up. Probably no problem. If you still hear knocking, then start worrying.
 
In order for the metal slivers to reach the little holes in the oil filter, they had to go through the pickup tube and oil pump. If the rotor and/or housing of the was scored by the metal passing through, the pump will not develop full pressure. Would it be enough to damage the engine if not replaced, I can't say. I suggest a compression test to determine if the problem is rings. You don't need to start the engine to run the test, but it will need oil.

Putting el cheapo oil and filter in it to see if it knocks is a good idea. It seems to me that the engine was close to the end of its life, at least without a rebuild, and you happened to be there when it expired.

FWIW: A carbureted engine in my experience will suffer vapor lock before internal damage occurs. As engine heat escalates, it begins to rattle or ping. At first this only happens under acceleration. Right before it vapor locks, the engine will ping when the throttle is opened even a little bit more.

When replacing coolant in an engine that has puked its coolant, let the engine cool down first. Putting cold coolant in a hot engine will at the best shoot a jet of steam back out the radiator and at worst will crack the block or cylinder head.
 
i was getting on the hwy one day not pushing my crate /6 i ordered when i heard a knocking i pulled over listened and was like yep rod drove it home had a 7 year 70000 mile warrenty so i wasnt worried got home called the guy he said it was a detonated piston i need to change my plugs i was like i know a rod know when i hear it he told me to drive it and it should stop well i did made it to work fine knocking of course then home then left again and poor old girl spit the #6 rod out and hit the started a big hole i was mad called him he was like was there oil in it hell yes just did a change 500 miles ago and it was full so when i pulled the motor took the pan off i found all 4 flex plate bolts broke off cam broke in 3 places and broke the rear of the block chewed the bearing to crap stripped the bolts holding on the rod cap and rod was in so many pieces and damaged the #5 rod also but i decided not to go back with a /6 but i will be getting it replaced to have a spare one around so just think it could be way worse lol
 
64dart440 said:
i was getting on the hwy one day not pushing my crate /6 i ordered when i heard a knocking i pulled over listened and was like yep rod drove it home had a 7 year 70000 mile warrenty so i wasnt worried got home called the guy he said it was a detonated piston i need to change my plugs i was like i know a rod know when i hear it he told me to drive it and it should stop well i did made it to work fine knocking of course then home then left again and poor old girl spit the #6 rod out and hit the started a big hole i was mad called him he was like was there oil in it hell yes just did a change 500 miles ago and it was full so when i pulled the motor took the pan off i found all 4 flex plate bolts broke off cam broke in 3 places and broke the rear of the block chewed the bearing to crap stripped the bolts holding on the rod cap and rod was in so many pieces and damaged the #5 rod also but i decided not to go back with a /6 but i will be getting it replaced to have a spare one around so just think it could be way worse lol
Click to expand...

thatsaheckofastorysorryaboutyourengine
 
66plyValiant said:
might be rare but doesn't make it worth any more money. its still a very good engine but definatly never be a v8
Click to expand...
You know since you obviously have no good advice to the op as to how he can fix his engine, why not go over to the big block and small block forums where the people there will actually appreciate your snide little off hand comments as to how V8's are way better than slants.

Seriously go troll somewhere else.

Just saying.:D
 
Aside from the random comments and arguments that have been added to my questions... I changed the oil last night, drove it around for a bit then let it idle. I did notice the oil change has made it only knock while I'm accelerating or in the higher rpms at least. Still not sure where the shavings came from especially since they weren't coming out of the pan. What I've gathered here, I'm going to change the oil pump next since it drives fine, no loss of power or overheating that I can see. The motor was supposedly rebuilt but I can tell if that's the case, it wasn't done very well.
 
still sounds like a rod or wrist pin id take it easy on the old girl its sounding very similar to mine just try and save you some money before it blows
 
/6 Matt said:
You know since you obviously have no good advice to the op as to how he can fix his engine, why not go over to the big block and small block forums where the people there will actually appreciate your snide little off hand comments as to how V8's are way better than slants.

Seriously go troll somewhere else.

Just saying.:D
Click to expand...

It's America, he's free to give his opinion wherever he pleases even IF people don't like it. Just saying.

I own a Slant six and have owned several along with small and big blocks, and I say a Slant is not that forgiving of lax maintenance. The ones I've been around with high mileage all bypassed the smoking and losing power that the V8's do, and went straight to blowing a rod bearing. I have YET to see a small-block lose a rod bearing. I'm sure they do but not in my own experience.

The OP should change the oil and filter and see what happens. If it knocks, then guess what, it blew up despite the it couldn't possibly happen's. I agree that a younger engine with less miles and wear should easily survive a short overheating.

But, nobody knows what shape this engine is in, and overheated, thin oil will take out a loose bearing. Fact.
 
Take a hacksaw, cut the old oil filter open and have a look at what it caught. You should be able to tell the difference between the shavings the saw put there and what the oil filter has caught. Post pics if you cant determine, one of us has probably seen it before.

Can you tell if it is bottom end or the valvetrain?
 
66plyValiant said:
might be rare but doesn't make it worth any more money. its still a very good engine but definatly never be a v8
Click to expand...

/6 Matt said:
You know since you obviously have no good advice to the op as to how he can fix his engine, why not go over to the big block and small block forums where the people there will actually appreciate your snide little off hand comments as to how V8's are way better than slants.

Seriously go troll somewhere else.

Just saying.:D
Click to expand...

How dare you knock the greatest :D motor ever made......Seriously.....it is a public forum, you are a member here which gives you the right to post in any forum you have access to it. Some one does not like what you have to say then perhaps they should learn to accept the fact that everyone is entitled to there opinion....and not everyone is going to be in agreement so it is best to figure out how to deal with it...just saying....

All that being said.....can't wait to take the / from my car out to the woods and put a few 50bmg rounds thru it....:glasses7:
 
snowcrow said:
Aside from the random comments and arguments that have been added to my questions... I changed the oil last night, drove it around for a bit then let it idle. I did notice the oil change has made it only knock while I'm accelerating or in the higher rpms at least. Still not sure where the shavings came from especially since they weren't coming out of the pan. What I've gathered here, I'm going to change the oil pump next since it drives fine, no loss of power or overheating that I can see. The motor was supposedly rebuilt but I can tell if that's the case, it wasn't done very well.
Click to expand...

My engine was doing that before I got a new drain hole installed in the oil pan while going down the road lol
 
inkjunkie said:
How dare you knock the greatest :D motor ever made......Seriously.....it is a public forum, you are a member here which gives you the right to post in any forum you have access to it. Some one does not like what you have to say then perhaps they should learn to accept the fact that everyone is entitled to there opinion....and not everyone is going to be in agreement so it is best to figure out how to deal with it...just saying....

All that being said.....can't wait to take the / from my car out to the woods and put a few 50bmg rounds thru it....:glasses7:
Click to expand...


they are a great engine but when they go I wouldn't waste my time putting another in its place!

its like the 3.9 L dodge engines, when they work great, time they start knocking its time for an upgrade
 
snowcrow said:
Aside from the random comments and arguments that have been added to my questions... I changed the oil last night, drove it around for a bit then let it idle. I did notice the oil change has made it only knock while I'm accelerating or in the higher rpms at least. Still not sure where the shavings came from especially since they weren't coming out of the pan. What I've gathered here, I'm going to change the oil pump next since it drives fine, no loss of power or overheating that I can see. The motor was supposedly rebuilt but I can tell if that's the case, it wasn't done very well.
Click to expand...
Ok I read all of your posts . 1st find out why your oil lights coming on . You should have never been driving it at all if the oil light was on:shock: (At any time ) 2 Im not sure your hearin a Knock . A knock dont come and go . If its bottom end (At lest the v8s ive sent sky High ) One slanty too. ) It sounds to me you got it outta time . Run the timing on that thing after you find out why the heck the oil lights coming on . :shock:
 
So the verdict is (after going to a mechanic and having several car enthusiast friends listen and look) I spun a bearing. I've been quoted by a respectable shop 2500 for the complete rebuild, labor and warranty Is that reasonable since classic industries offers a long block remanufactured for 1800 free shipping???
 
$1800 sounds fair for a rebuild long block w/ warranty, but

You should be able to get a good, used slant six almost free, since people here can't even sell them when they upgrade to a V-8. Worst-case is a $250 junkyard engine. You can turn one over by hand and feel for each cylinder to insure it is good. I recall a lot of rebuilt ones in wooden crates from a government warehouse sold on ebay a few years for ~$500 each (hydraulic cam type).
 
Found out knocks CAN come and go cause the way the bearing was spun, it only sometimes knocks. Regardless, a rebuild is in order!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top