one headlight is brighter 73 dart

-

Lasalle

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2022
Messages
184
Reaction score
120
Location
Indiana
I just installed and aimed a pair of NOS #6012 headlight bulbs. Same brand, same number. One is noticeably brighter. Why? I am thinking of switching them side to side to see if that makes any difference. All wiring is original.
 
It easily could be either the lamp or the wiring. No easy way. Switch them and go from there
 
Is that with car running? If so when you disconnect dimmer bulb check the voltage at the plug, should be about 13 volts with engine running and ammeter is showing a plus charge and or voltmeter is showing at least 13 volts. If so change bulbs or it could be defective.
 
A dirty / corroded ground can do that.

Do an Ohms test on both bulbs also, see if they are at least close to the same.

(a new bulb does not mean it is good)
 
Yes this condition is with the car running. Is there a ground for each bulb?
 

Bad Ground on the Passenger Side Headlamp, the dim one.
My first thought would be ground.
A dirty / corroded ground can do that.

Do an Ohms test on both bulbs also, see if they are at least close to the same.

(a new bulb does not mean it is good)

I switched the bulbs side to side and the passenger side is dim still. It is not the bulb. Where is the ground for the passenger side headlight? Thank you for your replies
 
Are the high beams switched on?
See if switching them evens the brightness.
How about another dead bulb somewhere?
Tail , turn or side marker
 
Hi/Lo does not make a difference. No other dead bulbs.
If the headlight switch is good...2 things, bad wire on the that bank or bad bright switch on the floor. Bypass it and see what you get. Use some alligator clips.
 
Headlamp ground is black wires screwed to the radiator frame. Some years have two blacks crimped in one eyelet connector on the drivers side, others are two blacks in individual eyelets, one drivers side radiator bracket and one on the passenger side bracket. Where the wire crimps into the eyelet is notorious for being green and fuzzy inside the vinyl where you can't see it. Give the wire a good pull, if it is green and fuzzy it will break easily at the eyelet.
 
This is where the grounds are on my 67 Dart. Drivers side is currently removed in the photo but you can see where the 2 wires were.

Pass side
20180310_202304.jpg


Drivers side
20180310_202317.jpg
 
I have two black wires crimped in one eyelet screwed to the drivers side radiator support near the battery, like Col_Steve described. I will check that for corrosion. Thank you for posting pictures Dana67Dart.
 
Different brightness between L & R H/Ls is not the h/l or dimmer switch. It could be a a bad ground; corrosion in the lamp socket terminals; corrosion/high resistance in the wiring. Since lo & hi beam didn't make any difference, I would be looking at the common factor: grd connection or corroded skt.
 
Success ! I cleaned the contacts in the headlight socket plugs with "DE OX IT". That helped. Then I uncrimped the wires off the ground eyelet, cleaned everything, then soldered them onto the eyelet. That solved the rest of the problem. The bulbs are the same brightness now. Thanks to all who helped.

Getting good headlights on this car turned out to be a lot of work. One bulb was burned out and they were not aimed properly. First I had to replace the little plastic threaded inserts in the aiming mechanism. Then I bought a pair of NOS 6012 bulbs from Ebay. I dropped one while installing it. It did not break but a little reflector inside shifted. The ebay vendor had another identical bulb. I aimed them but one was dimmer. Then the low beam stopped working on one. I fixed the ground and reused the working original bulb. Now everything works right but I still have two different brand bulbs. At this point I don't care anymore.
 
By the way I would not have put conventional lamps back in. I would have at least bought halogen sealed beam replacements. These so far as I know used the same part no's with an "H" added
 
I put the OEM style bulbs back in because I thought I would be avoiding other problems. Other posts on this forum said that newer style bulbs use more amps and the original wiring was not up to that.
 
There is a lot of voltage drop in the stock system. Putting the headlights on relays with upsized wiring improves performance of the headlights.

uRK6Ftn.jpg


Grounds as you've found out are really important to the efficiency of the system.

Good to read you got it figured out.
 
I put the OEM style bulbs back in because I thought I would be avoiding other problems. Other posts on this forum said that newer style bulbs use more amps and the original wiring was not up to that.
You are correct.
And a high quality, old stock 6012 could easily create more useful and effective light than an a poorly made new higher wattage lamp.

from 2008 Wagner Lighting catalog
upload_2022-2-16_10-0-6.png


With two lamps, double the amps for the electrical wires and connections.
Also, the design amps are at 12.8 Volts.
The operating voltage will be close the alternator output voltage 13.9 to 14.9 Volts.
The higher the voltage across each lamp, the more current each lamp will draw and the brighter it will burn.
This is the reason a relay system usually results in brighter lamps. There's less resistance and shorter distance between the alternator and the lamps, so voltage at the lamps is very close to alternator's.

For good or bad, H6024 lamps took advantage of the technology to produce pretty much the same candlepower at low beam as the earlier lamps. The good was less stress on the older wiring system, at least on low beam. The bad is that none of the current production H6024 have proven to have good optics. They're either made on old molds and equipment, or sloppy, and manufactures don't care. GE's lighting was sold off and the nighthawks are not the same now at all. :(
 
-
Back
Top Bottom