One last AC question

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jhdeval

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Okay I got everything installed and I am getting the hoses tomorrow. I have a white wire off the RV2 compressor does that run to the white wire on the evaporator in the car? Also top passenger side has a plug is that the oil fill plug?
 
I have no idea what we are working on, here. What year model? Is this factory, aftermarket or what?

Link to the system if aftermarket? Installer guide?

If it's factory, you have a shop manual, wiring diagram?
 
It is an rv2 compressor with aftermarket under dash evaporator. The rv2 compressor has one wire coming out and the under dash has 2 a red with fuse which I assumed was power and a white wire which I think connects to the compressor.
 
Post some photos. The one wire from your compressor actuates the clutch, as you surmised. The return is via the body. If your under-dash unit has a fan built-in, it probably also has the refrigerant controls inside it, like the expansion valve and the output for the clutch. My 2 after-market under-dash units (c.a. 1960's) have 2 wires: +12V supply w/ in-line fuse and AC clutch, w/ return via a mounting screw. Sounds like what you have. If so, sounds like you should connect the under-dash white to the RV2's wire.

I am guessing your car (65 Barracuda?) didn't have factory AC. If it did, you probably must eliminate the factory expansion valve. Where is this "passenger side plug"? Is it on an after-market "filter/drier" bottle? If so, it is probably for a pressure switch which you probably don't need (my after-market AC's don't) and can also be used to add oil, though best to put that into the compressor directly if it has an oil port.
 
You are correct 65 barracuda. On the lower side smaller hose connector on the under dash there is what looks an expansion valve. Kind of a round piece with a sensor wrapped around the hose connector.
 
That would be a TXV.

It must match the refrigerant you are using, so if it is for R-12, and you are gonna use 134, you'll have to either figure a cap tube/ orifice (must match system capacity) or replace the TXV with one for R134

The aftermarket units are usually pretty simple. There is probably only two wires in and out -- power in, and compressor out. You can wire that output wire in series with any low/ hi pressure switches or other temp controls.
 
Re 67Dart273's suggestion of changing the orifice, my 65 Newport has an under-dash box that was probably installed when new, and is probably similar to yours. It originally ran R-12, then I purged the oil and changed to R-134A for maybe 5 years, then Duracool (butane mixture). All worked fine and I didn't change the expansion valve. If going from R-12 to butane, you almost certainly wouldn't need to change anything since they are so close in performance.
 
I guess I ASSUMED he was going 134. JH, what are you planning for refrigerant?
 
I am going R134 but I double checked with the manufacturer and the evaporator is rated for both R12 and R134.
 
Okay so I have one more question. How do I get into the fuse block? I am going to try and run my power cord directly to the fuse block for my evaporator. If that is a bad idea can someone recommend a different place?
 
The fuse block removes with a single Phillips screw. However, you don't need to do that. You can get a "fuse tap" which is a circular terminal that slides over a round fuse and lets you attach a female spade connector. Ask at an auto parts or ebay. Pick a fuse that turns off with the key and install the tap on the downstream side, unless your wire to your AC unit will have an in-line fuse in which case put it on the upstream side.
 
Bill I really have to disagree with ya here

jh, if you still have the typical factory wiring, and you've probably read some of my ranting and raving about the pitfalls of the bulkhead connector, you might consider doing it "different"

At the very least, if you DO decide to tap into your existing panel, at least yank the bulkhead connector apart and make sure it's in OK shape first

But I'd rather see you add a through wire (grommet) from the starter relay with a nice big breaker, 20A or so. If you are considering adding anything else, like stereo, make it that much larger. But in any case, no 12 or so. You can use a relay in there triggered from any accessory tap on the fuse panel so it's live with key on. When you are tootin' down the road with that AC on "full" you are operating a fairly big fan motor, plus the compressor clutch, and you sure don't want to be smokin' the factory harness.

Now having said that, there are PLENTY of these on the factory stuff, but these girls are getting OLD, and more and more folks are having problems directly related to the bulkhead connector.

Just food fer thought
 
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