only starts in run position

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bumnround

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I just installed an electronic dizzy in my 67 cuda 273. While cranking it will not start but as soon as I release the key from start to on it fires and runs. What did I do wrong?
 
Double check the splice into the ballast wire to be sure your into the correct one.
 
While cranking I have got 11.8 volts on one side of ballast and at coil at same time. With key on on I've got 12 volts on other side of ballast. Can't figure it. I guess I'll sleep on it. Thanks
 
with the key in the run position you should have around 6 volts at the coil. with the key in the start position you should have 12 volts at the coil. i'd start checking at the ballast resister and work out from there
 
Disconnect your balast resistor and ohm's check it! I don't remember the exact specification, somewhere in the neighborhood of 10 ohms +/- I think it might be bad.

As far as voltage with the key on at the coil +, it will depend on what the ignition module is telling the coil to do, if the control unit is telling the coil to fire/spark (points open in the older distributor) the coil circuit will be open and you will indeed have true battery voltage (12.5v.) on the + side, if the control unit is telling the coil to recharge/build up (same as points closed in the old syst.) voltage then you will have like 6 to 7 volts at the + side.
 
bumnround said:
I just installed an electronic dizzy in my 67 cuda 273. While cranking it will not start but as soon as I release the key from start to on it fires and runs. What did I do wrong?
Click to expand...

I'm going to bump this for you because I have the exact same issue on a 440. Please let us know if/when you find out what the problem is.
 
I didn't install the conversion kit but took the set-up out of an early 80's caravelle. I have not been back out to the garage due to work,hopefully tonight I will have a chance. Thanks
 
"Disconnect your balast resistor and ohm's check it! I don't remember the exact specification, somewhere in the neighborhood of 10 ohms +/- I think it might be bad."

I think you meant to say "Disconnect your ballast resistor and check the resistance using an ohmmeter. I don't remember the exact resistance specification, somewhere in the neighborhood of 10 ohms +/- I think it might be bad."

There is no such thing as an ohms check!
 
I had the same problem, I went back to the original ballast resistor and problem solved.

I got my electronic dizzy setup from a FABO member and assumed that the ballast I needed was for the year/model that it came from. So I purchaced a ballast resistor from O'Reilly's. Turns out that the "new" resistor was to high of a resistance to work properly. I had the exact same trouble as you do now. That's why I say stick to the old points ballast and see what happens.

John B.
 
Oh yea! My original ballast resistance was around .8 Ohms near 1 but not quite. I think 10 ohms is too much if I recall correctly.

John B.
 
Are you using the five pin ECU with the dual ballast?
Dual ballast have different ohm ratings top/bottom.
Check the ohms as stated above. Should be around .5 on one side & 5.0 on the other. Be sure the positive coil is wired up top(.5ohm)
Double check all wiring.
Single ballast ohm rating will be around .5 ohm
I have had them pass a continuity test ok but when ohm checked, they were creating to much resistance to run.
 
Sorry I never got back to you guy's. computer issues. The air gap was a little large. I adjusted it to .008 and it fired right away in the start position. I'm a little surprised as the gap was not off a lot and you'd think a full 12v at the coil it would have been the other way around. Thank for all the support.
 
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