I couldn't agree more. Very appreciative of all the great people on this site, and the wealth of knowledge.
Opinion on this Spark plug reading.
- Thread starter Woodie
- Start date
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yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
It still looks like you have a bit too much total timing. I'm looking at the line across the ground wire. The line that is closest to the shell is total timing. The line that is closest to the center wire is initial. Initial looks a bout dead nuts on. You want that total line up an 1/8th or so from the shell. Maybe it's there and I can't see it that good in the picture.
As for the rest of the plug...you're nailing it.
Now you need to cut the shell off the plug and post some pictures of the porcelain so we can see the WOT fuel ring. To do that, you need to make a clean cut, meaning you need to make a 1/4 mile pass (or close to it) at WOT and kill the engine clean, WITHOUT locking the steering wheel or something crazy (!!!!) and then pull the plug and take the shell off. Then you'll know how close you are at WOT.
When testing like that, even at the track, I decide what plugs to pull (I usually know which holes are the leanest and pull those, as you are jetting to the leanest cylinders) and throw extra plugs in the car. At the end of the pass (or road...don't tell the wife or the sheriff but I test on local roads...where it is relatively safe out here in BFE) I jump out, pop the hood, drink a ginger ale while things cool off a bit, pull the plugs I want to look at, screw in some other plugs and come home and look at the plugs after I get the shells off. Them I make my changes and do it again.
Good thing I don't drink beer, because some days it takes a 12 pack of GA to get the job done. I'd be hammered.
As for the rest of the plug...you're nailing it.
Now you need to cut the shell off the plug and post some pictures of the porcelain so we can see the WOT fuel ring. To do that, you need to make a clean cut, meaning you need to make a 1/4 mile pass (or close to it) at WOT and kill the engine clean, WITHOUT locking the steering wheel or something crazy (!!!!) and then pull the plug and take the shell off. Then you'll know how close you are at WOT.
When testing like that, even at the track, I decide what plugs to pull (I usually know which holes are the leanest and pull those, as you are jetting to the leanest cylinders) and throw extra plugs in the car. At the end of the pass (or road...don't tell the wife or the sheriff but I test on local roads...where it is relatively safe out here in BFE) I jump out, pop the hood, drink a ginger ale while things cool off a bit, pull the plugs I want to look at, screw in some other plugs and come home and look at the plugs after I get the shells off. Them I make my changes and do it again.
Good thing I don't drink beer, because some days it takes a 12 pack of GA to get the job done. I'd be hammered.
Right on YR. Hopefully tomorrow or Monday I will get a chance to do a clean cut. As for the total timing, It is all in by 3000 and totals out at 32* I assume I need to cut the threads off the plug with a cut off wheel... I will do that tomorrow and post some pics from the plugs used today. Thanks for your guidance and input, this is a great learning experience.
Wòodie
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Work the intake or jet up 1.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Yep. You are slightly rich in the middle and lean at WOT. I forget what intake you have, but you have to jet to the leanest cylinder. Or as MO said, work on the intake to correct the cylinder to cylinder distribution.
Also, I'm not a fan of a 4 hole spacer on a open manifold. I've yet to see that work, even with tapered spacers. The only time I use a 4 hole is if it's an anti-reversion plate. A true AR plate. And those require some work to install or those don't work either.
My intake is off now so I can make the AR plate fit. It's now become a winter project.
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