rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
Nope. I definitely checked for contact at max lift (1.6 rockers), all good.
416" on the dyno
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rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
Don your intake looks good and I agree you're probably not giving up much. Again, the main reason I went with the SV was because of the extra material. IMO the regular Victor was just too short for the height of the intake ports at least for me doing the job myself. For what it's worth, Rod agreed with me on that.
If I had stopped here it may have been OK but there would have still been a significant overhang. You can also see that just opening the ports to match the heads accomplishes little as there is still a lot of material that would need to be removed just beyond the exit face. Look at the outer port roof and the inside port floor on the left. Regardless of the the angle of the image, this is the way the port is cast. The lower angle of the Victor runner creates the sharp turn on the inside port and widens the angle where the outer port meets the head. The difficulty of doing this job correctly increases tenfold when you start removing material up into the runner because you have to grind away a ton and need to go pretty far up to get close to even all around. Bell-mouthing the exit area will decrease port velocity.
On the dyno we actually had an open spacer which effectively increases plenum volume and it seemed to be fine. I did not touch the plenum area on the SV save for smoothing out some of the roughest areas. Plenum work is not easy. I’ve killed three different intakes trying to do it.
To prove my point, the image below represents my attempt at plenum work on the Victor 340. It's all pretty random and the openings are nowhere close to being the same. That's really the hard part. Measuring the openings on the port side is much more straightforward. The ones on my SV are fairly close in volume because I paid attention to it. It also was not necessary to go as far up into the runner.
Yeah, there is Splash Zone or Moroso epoxy but this intake is toast. This pic should help you understand why Wilson charges so much for their work. It's almost impossible to do this job right without cutting the intake in half and/or welding the tops of the runners. If you're married to a particular intake that may be the only choice but the Super Victor saved me from having to send this out (with the cylinder heads) to have it repaired and ported properly.
This damage is from inadvertently grinding the divider with a long shank burr going through the plenum. I was trying to remove material from the outer port wall and didn't see what was happening on the burr end. This is not fixable without a bunch of welding and I don't have a TIG machine. Also note how little material is left on the bottom.
From all the research I did on the subject it seems like port matching is the most productive thing you can do if you're trying to do this stuff at home. Removing obstructions in the intake tract is always going to be beneficial regardless of whether there is a corresponding increase in volume. Just don't go too far.
If I had stopped here it may have been OK but there would have still been a significant overhang. You can also see that just opening the ports to match the heads accomplishes little as there is still a lot of material that would need to be removed just beyond the exit face. Look at the outer port roof and the inside port floor on the left. Regardless of the the angle of the image, this is the way the port is cast. The lower angle of the Victor runner creates the sharp turn on the inside port and widens the angle where the outer port meets the head. The difficulty of doing this job correctly increases tenfold when you start removing material up into the runner because you have to grind away a ton and need to go pretty far up to get close to even all around. Bell-mouthing the exit area will decrease port velocity.
On the dyno we actually had an open spacer which effectively increases plenum volume and it seemed to be fine. I did not touch the plenum area on the SV save for smoothing out some of the roughest areas. Plenum work is not easy. I’ve killed three different intakes trying to do it.
To prove my point, the image below represents my attempt at plenum work on the Victor 340. It's all pretty random and the openings are nowhere close to being the same. That's really the hard part. Measuring the openings on the port side is much more straightforward. The ones on my SV are fairly close in volume because I paid attention to it. It also was not necessary to go as far up into the runner.
Yeah, there is Splash Zone or Moroso epoxy but this intake is toast. This pic should help you understand why Wilson charges so much for their work. It's almost impossible to do this job right without cutting the intake in half and/or welding the tops of the runners. If you're married to a particular intake that may be the only choice but the Super Victor saved me from having to send this out (with the cylinder heads) to have it repaired and ported properly.
This damage is from inadvertently grinding the divider with a long shank burr going through the plenum. I was trying to remove material from the outer port wall and didn't see what was happening on the burr end. This is not fixable without a bunch of welding and I don't have a TIG machine. Also note how little material is left on the bottom.
From all the research I did on the subject it seems like port matching is the most productive thing you can do if you're trying to do this stuff at home. Removing obstructions in the intake tract is always going to be beneficial regardless of whether there is a corresponding increase in volume. Just don't go too far.
HuntedDuckV351
Well-Known Member
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