Options for installing AMD Quarter on a '70 Dart

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1MeanA

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I'm just mulling over how to install an AMD quarter panel. I've already installed the driver's side and its all tek screwed in place. There was some lessons learned.
  • Its difficult to install a whole panel exactly like the factory did. You're going to have to cut and trim around the roof pillar (at least I had to).
  • Disturbing as few factory welds as possible is preferable to me especially where splices are easy to cover/not as visible
  • Installing a full rocker is a ton of work so I installed 2 partial sections on the passenger side (turned out well)
  • Butt welding on old metal isn't fun and its hard to get a good finished product. Instead of totally cutting out the outer wheel well housing I butt welded in a section of the outer wheel well housing on the driver side. I will overlap weld on the passenger side.
  • Leaving the door on until the quarter is fitted so the rocker and quarter gaps can be checked was a good decision.
So now I am humming and hawing about how to fit the passenger side quarter. I was thinking of not disturbing the roof seam as well as the rear window and possibly the trunk welds. I could cut a line along the top flat surface and flange along the gulley from the front of the rear pillar to the back. Has anybody done something like this? Its just an idea at this point....maybe a bad one. :)
IMG_1996.JPG
 
You did it the correct way on the drivers side, I recommend the same for the passenger side. Quite often people use the cheater quarters and weld it at the belt line, that is not how I would want MY car done, the first time I had it restored in 1979 I used cheaters, the next time I used full quarters and was MUCH happier with the way it turned out...My two cents...
 
I had a black Demon done with partials/cheaters and I remember seeing the ghost lines if the car was in the sun.
 
On the quarter to roof seam, you typically have no choice since they are usually rotted there. The correct way would be to tuck the quarter under the roof and that may require drilling a few of the drip rail spots. Another option is to cut a small slit so the roof can be lifted slightly. Another thing that helps is to trim off some of the flange on the quarter so there is less to tuck. As long as it goes under about 1/2" it will be fine.
I would never section an outer rocker. They are not hard to replace except for the ends and even if you section it you will still have to deal with those unless you just leave the original ends. Keep in mind that is a rust prone area and you have no way to access and seal those butt welds.
Outer wheelhouse are also fairly easy to remove in one piece. It looks daunting at first but once you get into it they come out easy.
Full quarters are the way to go if they are available. The less seams to hide the better.
 
...The correct way would be to tuck the quarter under the roof and that may require drilling a few of the drip rail spots. Another option is to cut a small slit so the roof can be lifted slightly. Another thing that helps is to trim off some of the flange on the quarter so there is less to tuck. As long as it goes under about 1/2" it will be fine...
That's basically what I did. I didn't see a way of getting it under the roof with some trimming and I see others have had to do that too. I'm pretty happy with the sectioning job on the rocker (from the back of the door to the back). One thing I noticed with both the rocker and quarter is that any misalignment or variation in gaps existed before I started are still there after I finished. I measured and recorded the gaps and took photos before I started. I guess that means everything is installed correctly :)
 
Yep, they weren't perfect when they were new. I just did rockers on my 74 cuda and the rear inner on the driver side was cocked about 1/4". (E body had two piece inner rockers).
 
Yeah if I decide to spend time on gaps it will be a lot of extra work. There are already a few places I have to do something with.
 
Your work looks exceptional. I would do the second side exactly the same. In the seam where they used to put lead, I put a few skim coats of All Metal, or similar. It is waterproof and very resistant to cracking. Then finish the area off with regular filler.
 
Just my 2 cents worth- I agree, you did it the right way. Anytime you can avoid excessive welding and subsequent filling/finishing gives you a better final product. As far as where you splice the sail panel, it doesn't really matter IMO. The factory decided to put the joint where it is for 2 reasons- ease of production/assembly and viability of replacement should the need arise. "MoparMike1974" said it, I would never section an outer rocker. They are straight forward, and somewhat structural.
Nice work.
 
I do believe the outer wheel houses tuck INSIDE the inner quarters. The outer rocker also tucks inside the lower part of the inner quarter as well.
 
Yes you are correct. The outer wheelhouse tucks inside at the sail panel support. You can either splice it with a lap joint or butt it. The rocker can be spliced with a lap joint at the inner quarter or just peel up the bottom of the inner quarter after you use you spot weld cutter. Either way is relatively easy if you take your time.
 
Yes you are correct. The outer wheelhouse tucks inside at the sail panel support. You can either splice it with a lap joint or butt it. The rocker can be spliced with a lap joint at the inner quarter or just peel up the bottom of the inner quarter after you use you spot weld cutter. Either way is relatively easy if you take your time.
I have always replaced mine as the factory intended. If sectioning a rocker I would suggest more than a lap weld. It should have a full backer with plug welds and a solid weld. You can access them for corrosion protection with a wand from the front or rear. I personally wouldnt section a rocker on a classic car... although we do it daily in the collision world it has to be in certain locations specified my the Oem.
 
Agreed. Just wanted to clarify. As per my previous post, I would never section a rocker. And yes, in the collision world I have done a vertical splice with a sleeve and plug welds along the sleeve, but the splice I meant was if you are restoring a complete panel and trying to avoid removing an overlapping panel, since the amount of overlap on the splice might be minimal and is usually along the length of the rocker. Totally agree with your post.
 
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