Out of curiosity what are the cost differences

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MOPARMAGA

MOPARMAGA

" The other hard member"
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Cost differences Between a 10 second car and a car in the 9s ?
Nhra license.
More sfi certified parts ?
Nhra Cage certification.
There probably some other things I'm forgetting but I just want to know if anyone has recently gone from 10s to 9s and what was different.
Thanks guys.
I'm thinking of going through my heads and porting and installing my solid roller that's a bit closer to what my engine wants. 272-284 @.050
Vs. the 264-268 @.050.
 
Really not that big of a deal.
I always build my Cage right so it will
certify anyway. If you have to scrap the bar/cage and
build another new one = Then that IS a big deal!
NHRA License is not big hurdle.
A couple more SFI items not a real fortune and really
not a bad Idea anyway.

It is frustrating to not be able to work on your car to go
faster and know your up against a wall of restriction to going
faster!
 
GTX JOHN said:
Really not that big of a deal.
I always build my Cage right so it will
certify anyway. If you have to scrap the bar/cage and
build another new one = Then that IS a big deal!
NHRA License is not big hurdle.
A couple more SFI items not a real fortune and really
not a bad Idea anyway.
Click to expand...
Great thanks John, I'm still in the building process with the dart, it has 10 of the 12 point cage bars installed then I will call up the local cage cert guy to come over.
If I can afford to get the rest of the parts to do a roller cam then I'll also need to get a couple more parts for my trans too.
It's going to be a foot brake car & maybe 3300-3400 pounds
 
I would think it depends on how close the car is to the 9s now. Does that make sense? If it's 10.90 for example, it would take more to get to 9s than if it was 10.20s. I would assume you got that much figured out. I'm like John though, it's probably not a huge amount. I mean......a 350 buck hit of nitrous would do it. lol
 
certified chassis, has to be recerted every three years, compitition license, can get expensive though.
 
I think one of the big things that deters some people is I think when your in the 9s you need a 2 layer fire suit, full face helment, gloves, neck collar? I'm not 100% sure on it all as I'm not where near that close, but seems most that run 9's have those items. But it really depends on the track or promoter at which event you're at as well. Some of the big $$ races I've seen guys running 5.0s (in the 1/8) in open face helmet, sneakers and shorts.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
272-284 @.050 Vs. the 264-268 @.050.
Click to expand...

You can run pretty fast with a 264-268 @ .050" cam. Going to a 272-284 cam @ .050" can require higher quality/ stiffer springs and more required valve train maintenance.

The stiffer the valve springs the more frequent valve spring changes are a possibility. The faster you go the more it cost initially and upkeep cost.


Years ago I raced a car that ran 7.50's in the 1/8 mile, which back then Super Pro was 7.99 or faster. There was a dragster that ran 4.51 @ 151 mph in the 1/8 racing at my track every

week. I had a nice roll cage, but was my car safe enough to be on the track if I had to line up next to this guy?

All that said, if you race in a class were you are lined up and racing a much faster car than you, aka: Super Pro your car should be safe enough to take a hit in the rearend from

that faster car racing towards you in the lights at 150 mph should something go wrong with either car. The short answer is I would have in no way been prepared safety wise should have

something ever happened. I don't know you or your car, but before I worried about going faster I would make sure you're as safe you can be before going faster.

Tom
 
I have several friends that have 9 second capable cars but slow them down to only run 10.00s because they for what ever reason don't want to deal with the 9 second requirements and rules. My local track is strict and they watch if you are going to fast with out the required safety equipment you will be warned. A few months ago I was dialed 11.46 and forgot to put my SFI approved jacket on .. and was warned . The rules are there for reason! Rule enforcement varies from track to track. I run 11.50 index and my car has all the safety equipment to run 11.00s ( roll bar , 5 point harness etc. ) I would say over half the cars in the class have no roll bar ( required for 11.49 and faster ) despite being able to run 11.30s, 40s and faster , they regularly go high 11.40s ! I guess since they aren't dialing faster than 11.50 its ok. There is one guy that runs several early 60s Chevys I saw him dialed 11.20s a few weeks ago .. no roll bar , he runs several tracks in the area but I have never seen him at my local track , I guess he knows he would get thrown out !
 
Now I’ll have to break out my rule books but I’ll tell you one thing, WDRA and IHRA are more racer friendly. I’m legal with my single layer jacket and blue jeans till I got to Norwalk (NHRA). I have to pull out my big boy jacket out there. 6.0 is the perfect place to be. My car is 8.50 legal but it doesn’t need certification. I now I’m going to do something stupid here done and it’s going to make me get mine certified and a few other rules kick in. They now make super nice light weight multi layer coats and pants that I’ve been looking at. I’ll post that up later too because if you need this stuff anyway it’s not that much more expensive. John I’m sure runs into certifications more often in the classes he runs.
 
PROSTOCKTOM said:
You can run pretty fast with a 264-268 @ .050" cam. Going to a 272-284 cam @ .050" can require higher quality/ stiffer springs and more required valve train maintenance.

The stiffer the valve springs the more frequent valve spring changes are a possibility. The faster you go the more it cost initially and upkeep cost.


Years ago I raced a car that ran 7.50's in the 1/8 mile, which back then Super Pro was 7.99 or faster. There was a dragster that ran 4.51 @ 151 mph in the 1/8 racing at my track every

week. I had a nice roll cage, but was my car safe enough to be on the track if I had to line up next to this guy?

All that said, if you race in a class were you are lined up and racing a much faster car than you, aka: Super Pro your car should be safe enough to take a hit in the rearend from

that faster car racing towards you in the lights at 150 mph should something go wrong with either car. The short answer is I would have in no way been prepared safety wise should have

something ever happened. I don't know you or your car, but before I worried about going faster I would make sure you're as safe you can be before going faster.

Tom
Click to expand...

The sting of the initial cost of the roller goes away quickly when you make more power and have a more reliable engine.
 
Thanks dudes, I'll read all this on lunch. I appreciate it.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I would think it depends on how close the car is to the 9s now. Does that make sense? If it's 10.90 for example, it would take more to get to 9s than if it was 10.20s. I would assume you got that much figured out. I'm like John though, it's probably not a huge amount. I mean......a 350 buck hit of nitrous would do it. lol
Click to expand...
Yeah if it had less power I wouldn't even worry.
 
My car was an ex super gasser, that I bought less engine, trans, center section, and electronics.
When I started running it, I had to add a couple bars to the cage, but other than that, the car was legal for nines. All SFI stuff necessary.
I wasn't, no license.
So, when I got bounce for running the equivalent of nines at our local eighth, I slowed the car down, in various ways.
Gonna run the new car at low tens too, even though it was an eight second car at one time.
Not gonna run nines, for the reasons in post six, and the medical exam, (tho I know I would pass. )
 
Last edited:
Don’t you already make enough power to get in to the 9s?
 
GTX JOHN said:
Really not that big of a deal.
I always build my Cage right so it will
certify anyway. If you have to scrap the bar/cage and
build another new one = Then that IS a big deal!
NHRA License is not big hurdle.
A couple more SFI items not a real fortune and really
not a bad Idea anyway.

It is frustrating to not be able to work on your car to go
faster and know your up against a wall of restriction to going
faster!
Click to expand...
Sox and Martin would whole-heartedly agree with you.
 
I can’t believe what it used to cost to have a cage put in. My 82 charger was a pro street car when I bought it. It was a very slow B1 engine car. Very slow. I did some upgrades to it and had a friend tear out the cage and put a chrome moly cage in it. He did a beautiful job for 1100.00. I had it running 10.0’s with a stock crank 440 with 906 heads i
Ported.
 
Going off memory....

Cage cert
SFI Trans shield
SFI pants
SFI shoes
SFI collar or head restraint
SFI gloves

This is in addition to what is already required for 10.0 - 11.50
 
pittsburghracer said:
I can’t believe what it used to cost to have a cage put in. My 82 charger was a pro street car when I bought it. It was a very slow B1 engine car. Very slow. I did some upgrades to it and had a friend tear out the cage and put a chrome moly cage in it. He did a beautiful job for 1100.00. I had it running 10.0’s with a stock crank 440 with 906 heads i
Ported.
Click to expand...
My 12 point art Morrison mild steel cage cost $1200 and I picked it up
 
pittsburghracer said:
Now I’ll have to break out my rule books but I’ll tell you one thing, WDRA and IHRA are more racer friendly. I’m legal with my single layer jacket and blue jeans till I got to Norwalk (NHRA). I have to pull out my big boy jacket out there. 6.0 is the perfect place to be. My car is 8.50 legal but it doesn’t need certification. I now I’m going to do something stupid here done and it’s going to make me get mine certified and a few other rules kick in. They now make super nice light weight multi layer coats and pants that I’ve been looking at. I’ll post that up later too because if you need this stuff anyway it’s not that much more expensive. John I’m sure runs into certifications more often in the classes he runs.
Click to expand...
I'm sure you'll slip a pic in of your new silky underwear too...thanks in advance
 
Don't forget the recertification of parts . The freight costs can be huge as well as removing and reinstalling the components. My bell is now 5 years certified but the clutch set up is still every 2 years. Seatbelts every 2 years too. Freight was 180 to ship my clutch/flywheel assembly. Bell is 90 each way. Seatbelts 70 bucks plus freight. And as pointed out SFI suit which typically is thicker and heavier can be miserable on a hot day. Chassis certification money too.
Just part of going 9.9
 
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