overheating

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jazak5

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well,---my 1969 340 barracuda has a overheating problem !! upon investigation/tear down concluded to the fact that the passages in the timing cover/water pump housing are corroded shut .... cleaned them out with a scraper and a shop vac. not sure if there is enough (meat) on the passenger side to seal the pump properly//half way to a timing chain check,,,

1.) can I take the cover off without dropping the oil pan ???
2.) does anyone have a descent cover laying around for a descent price zip # 12051//????? timing marks on the passenger side :prayer:
 
Number one is a yes, and they even have a gasket set specifically for doing that.
The "Timing cover set" comes with left and right pan to timing cover pan gasket ends.

Number 2, I don't have one sorry.
 
If those passages are that bad, the entire engine needs to come out be disassembled to the bare block and sent to the machine shop to get boiled out.
 
Agree with triple R. If things look that bad, God only knows what's inside. Maybe ya could do some sort of "power flush", but me.....I'd want to know.
 
I had once found a "formula" to clean a block with muratic acid solution. it was quit involved. might have found it on slantsix.org>?????? tried it on a slant engine, no problems occurred. how well did it work? don't really know for sure.

I know from previous experience ya better know how to neutralize the stuff and you can cause a world of problems using the stuff!

RRR is right. but an engine trip to the boil out tank isn't always on every plate.
 
If those passages are that bad, the entire engine needs to come out be disassembled to the bare block and sent to the machine shop to get boiled out.
Well yes and no..... the timing cover is aluminum. When in the presence of iron, all the corrosion will be on the AL part. So the cover could be really bad and the block situation be less bad. But, yes, the blocks and heads should be flushed out and cleaned out very well; it just may be doable without full dissassembly. I'd pull the block drain plugs and if they were blocked up on the inside, THEN yeah the blockages there are indeed pretty bad. Either way, then do the muratic acid treatment as a first try. (Just seeing if the situation can be salvaged without a full teardown; I cleaned out a /6 acceptably well that was this bad and got past it's heating issues.)

And the rad is likely going to need rodding out if the cover is that bad.
 
believe it or not the timing cover sacrificed its self for the rest of the engine !!! bought a $13 bore scope for my lap top off of e snay to check the passages !!!!! whew !!!!!
 
If would be good to run it for a day with pure water and 1 lb citric acid (ebay). That is what Prestone Super-flush was back when it worked well. Flush many times after, and don't let it freeze. Pull the block drains while flushing, and you may need to poke a screwdriver in the holes to free up rust. I have converted (converting) all my vehicles to Evans Waterless coolant since I abhor corrosion.
 
Was sitting for a while? Pull thermostat and a couple bottles of rad flush,but if rad is plugged better off to deal with it. Whether to replace or rod out/rebuild.
 
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