PAINLESS WIRE HARNESS (thoughts)

-
Not to be redundant but the universal fit kits are exactly that. I have used American and Painless. If you are going that route it is cheaper to just buy what you need since you are going to have to sort It out yourself anyway. I do not do the OEM restore route so for me it was better than the factory replacing kits. I use dual fans electric fuel pump etc etc. regardless of what product you do, get a big piece of construction paper and draw your cars electrical components on it. Then start designing your system. It will save you hours and hours of time. A bit of research and homework on the front end will save you mistakes and allow you to really clean up the install. Everyone wires cars up differently.
 
I had my car done by a retired GM electrical engineer who does wiring installs now as his side business.
He really likes the Rebel kit he used on mine.Uses them for all his installs. He put fuel, water and fan on relays, replaced every inch of wire in the car and charged me 1500.
I thought it was a great deal. No way I could crawl around under the dash, etc.
Everything works great, he put in new battery wire, etc, etc. car starts like it has a 16v battery in it
 
Vans auto harnesses are M&H and you get free shipping on eBay. Ended up being about $30 cheaper than year one even with a discount.
 
Dartsun said:
I’ve bought the Ron Francis “mopar” kit and it was way too overwhelming for my electrical experience. I bought an M&H factory replacement one and wow it is very nice. I’d shell the extra money if it was
Click to expand...

clementine said:
I did American Autowire.
Its great, like really great, correct connectors, correct everything, marked every 6 inches.....its really great. (now $1100)

BUT.....if I did not care about originality I would find a fella on here that put the fuses in the glovebox and ran through the firewall with something else. You may have to search it out, I dont remember his name but the way he did it seemed like it would save your back in the long run and you could run the wires out of sight.

$0.02
Click to expand...
I did that on my '71 Duster. So when I flip the glove box down, the fuses are right there. I used the Ron Francis Express Harness. Still had to purchase connectors as the kit was not "plug & play". Kept the original starter wiring and deleted a few accessory wires that wasn't being used . Worked out great so far.
 
I have this exact Painless kit and agree that it was not painless at all....lol

Long story short, I ended up only using only the lighting circuit and building my own harness for everything else.
 
-Boosted- said:
I have this exact Painless kit and agree that it was not painless at all....lol

Long story short, I ended up only using only the lighting circuit and building my own harness for everything else.
Click to expand...
Exactly my point! Painless like all the others has a good product provided you understand what you are getting into!
 
Sublime one said:
Exactly my point! Painless like all the others has a good product provided you understand what you are getting into!
Click to expand...
Yup, in my case it was mainly because my build changed direction. Went from street car to race car so it was easier to build versus splice. I thought the kit was good but I know how to wire a car. Might be a different story for someone inexperienced.
 
-Boosted- said:
Yup, in my case it was mainly because my build changed direction. Went from street car to race car so it was easier to build versus splice. I thought the kit was good but I know how to wire a car. Might be a different story for someone inexperienced.
Click to expand...
My default setting is always race car! For instance when wiring nose clip I put a power strip on each fender so I can get to all relays and trouble shoot super easy. You can just make it out behind reservoirs. Might help OP? I think I have a pix of my wiring diagram as well if that has any value to you @73SwungOut ? Obviously yours would be different due to components but it might prime the pump?

IMG_0763.jpeg
 
Sublime one said:
My default setting is always race car! For instance when wiring nose clip I put a power strip on each fender so I can get to all relays and trouble shoot super easy. You can just make it out behind reservoirs. Might help OP? I think I have a pix of my wiring diagram as well if that has any value to you @73SwungOut ? Obviously yours would be different due to components but it might prime the pump?

View attachment 1716174527
Click to expand...
Nice, I used a couple of buss bars as well.
 
I've used two EZ wiring kits and love them, but I did need to reuse a few factory connections and download a wiring diagram for both my 67 dart and 68 valiant to match up the steering column and switches.
 
Sublime one said:
My default setting is always race car! For instance when wiring nose clip I put a power strip on each fender so I can get to all relays and trouble shoot super easy. You can just make it out behind reservoirs. Might help OP? I think I have a pix of my wiring diagram as well if that has any value to you @73SwungOut ? Obviously yours would be different due to components but it might prime the pump?

View attachment 1716174527
Click to expand...
Wow looks really sharp. I went with Kwik Wire 20 Circuit Harness. Did some research on them and couldn't find not one bad review. Customer service has been superb. The owner would call me right away within 15 min of posting a question on their page. The Harness is arriving today so I'll be drawing out my Dart on a poster board and start drawing out the paths where i want each wire to run and hide before actually trying to install. Hopefully this will make it easier. It be much appreciated if you could share that diagram. I'm sure it's slightly different but hey....you got lights in the front? Lights in the back? So do I haha... Much love
 
I used M&H. Perfect and quick. Wires are bundled/ wrapped so they fall exactly where the factory harness did. Get one of those color large laminated diagrams and it will go very smooth. I used a few Painless relays for ignition, fans, and fuel pump and wired those separate. The M&H harness is missing the snap tab on the bundle that goes to the back where your left foot sits. It's easy to pull apart but just cinch it with a tie wrap. Other than that, it was perfect with all factory connectors installed. Well worth the money and makes it a quick switch over.
 
73SwungOut said:
Just did some research on Kwik Wire. Seems like the 22 circuit harness is pretty nice. Any thoughts on that brand?
Click to expand...
I used a Kwik Wire harness on a 62 F100 I had about 10 years ago. Pretty generic & I had to change the steering column connector over to Ford but other than that, it was pretty nice. No idea what they have for MOPAR.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top