paint question...

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Darren

Darren

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Hey guys after getting a few quotes of 10 - 12 grand to paint my 68 Barracuda 383s (California car with original paint and some minor surface rust) I have decided to try and paint it myself. I am not looking for a show car but a driver and hopefully still looks good. My question is I am painting the car GG1, seeing the color is metallic can I paint the doors, hood, fenders and deck lid separate from the body. I would like to do a few panels to see how they turn out. I have some experience in painting but pretty much a beginner wanting to learn. I have already painted the engine bay with GG1 single stage and it turned out pretty dam good. Also rebuild engine and car is running so engine will be staying in. I want to do the rest of the car base/ clear. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 
Definitely, Just did a fender for a truck separate and you can see it.
 
I wonder if I can have the GG1 mixed to have no or very lttle metallic in the paint?
 
I have painted base/clear metallic colors on cars apart. You just got to make sure you use the same paint out of the same can. Also make sure you spray on the same amount of coats & do all the parts at the same time. Ive never had a problem
 
That's one thing. I was hoping to do the parts one day and the body the next. Due to size of garage....
 
I have decided to paint the car assembled. Another question .. I am going to start with painting the inside of the doors, all jams and underside of deck lid. All these areas are original paint and fairly clean, do I need to use epoxy primer in these areas? Or just scuff and prime with good primer then base/ clear?
For the rest of the the car I will be mostly stripping to bare metal so I will more than likely be using epoxy primer. Thanks
 
I learned a lot from this site. LearnAutoBodyAndPaint. They have several post on utube, and if you wish to join, you have access to watch a lot of really good videos and can ask questions. I did join, but when they start trying to sell you a program, just wait. I ended up paying $79 for the program, which has paid for itself with what I have learned. I have started painting my 65 Barracuda, the interior any way. Good luck, It's not rocket science, but you do need some help sometime.
 
With metallic paint, you want to watch for Tiger stripes. I think it usually happens when you get too close with the gun. I have shot a car with each coat a different direction, then pull the gun back and lay a final coat to even the metallic. I'm sure someone will chime in who has more experience.
 
When it comes to the jambs, I would just scuff them with red scotch bright pad then spray your base on. I spray at least 3 coats of base on car. First coat going front back, 2nd coat side to side, 3rd coat front to back again. Then for metallic colors after all that I turn the gun pressure up just alittle & give it what they call a fog coat. Its where you hold the gun about 15 20 inches away from the car & spray in a cross hatch patern. That will eliminate what they call tiger stripes.
 
cawley said:
I have painted base/clear metallic colors on cars apart. You just got to make sure you use the same paint out of the same can. Also make sure you spray on the same amount of coats & do all the parts at the same time. Ive never had a problem
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This above. Try to find what is referred to as 'hide charts'. Usually either large or small black and white squares. Once you spray them and the black is hidden, STOP! Uniformity of paint thickness is critical! Too little and you see through, too much and sags/runs and or the effects part don't lay out right. Practice with those. Yeah, it can be expensive, but better to get good so you don't waste the whole gallon can on your project. And, if you have more than one can of the base material, that is the UNTHINNED paint, find a good steel container and mix all well then transfer to larger container and mix again. Another trick. Don't let the seller tell you that you don't have to. Is it worth it, YOUR MONEY AND TIME, not to?
 
The paint I will be using is PPG base/clear paint code GG1 how metallic is this paint? Thanks
 
how much do the shops want , if you peel it down do all the prep work so they could spray it all at once ? any change in weather or you spraying tech talent can and will make the color look differant from one panel to another . as matl's costs is not either . it would be a bad investment to wast your money and efforts . most of the cost is disassembly , prep and reassembly . you could trim costs and get a great job as well . i do automotive resto , painting is the most timely and what you see first . sets the tone of any restoration and the hardest to reverse . drivetrain , interior , trim just bolts on , paint is everywhere . just my thoughts on your project . pomonamissel
 
^^ That is my plan for this Duster. I have worked out a deal with a local shop - if I do the body work / prep they will do the color / clear in a downdraft booth vs doing it in my garage... I plan on getting the body work lined out with the help of a guy I have worked with before on a couple automotive jobs and get it in epoxy primer then let the shop give it a once over to touch up any issues I may have - then paint. I too received 3 quotes in that 10-12K range. Going this route I should be able to keep the paint and body work to under 3K. Good luck with this one, I will be following.
 
pomonamissel said:
how much do the shops want , if you peel it down do all the prep work so they could spray it all at once ? any change in weather or you spraying tech talent can and will make the color look differant from one panel to another . as matl's costs is not either . it would be a bad investment to wast your money and efforts . most of the cost is disassembly , prep and reassembly . you could trim costs and get a great job as well . i do automotive resto , painting is the most timely and what you see first . sets the tone of any restoration and the hardest to reverse . drivetrain , interior , trim just bolts on , paint is everywhere . just my thoughts on your project . pomonamissel
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I got a couple quotes of 10 - 12 grand range, and that was bringing the Cuda in with no chrome, trim or glass. I told one shop I would strip the paint, so he brought the price down to 10 grand. BTW the car is a original paint California car with only surface rust, but has a few minor dings. Thanks
 
Should not need stripped to bare metal if its in decent shape, jmho...
 
tnts72 said:
^^ That is my plan for this Duster. I have worked out a deal with a local shop - if I do the body work / prep they will do the color / clear in a downdraft booth vs doing it in my garage... I plan on getting the body work lined out with the help of a guy I have worked with before on a couple automotive jobs and get it in epoxy primer then let the shop give it a once over to touch up any issues I may have - then paint. I too received 3 quotes in that 10-12K range. Going this route I should be able to keep the paint and body work to under 3K. Good luck with this one, I will be following.
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Yes that is also an option. But for sure I want to paint all jams under deck lid and inside doors. Then also get car in primer and do some bodywork. I already painted engine bay and freshly rebuild engine, so i would like to keep the underhood alone. I will be starting a thread in members restorations. Thanks
 
I painted green metallic (basecoat-clearcoat) on my 65 Newport, same code as the Maaco paint years before. One door was on the car and one off - horizontal on sawhorses. The door on the car matches, but the one I painted horizontal looks lighter in sunlight, which I attribute to the metal flakes orienting differently under gravity.

When I paint my Dart, I will use solid-color polyurethane, per the very popular Moparts thread ("Paint yer car for $50" or such). You see enough failed-clear-coat horrors in every parking lot and the aluminum flakes in metallic oxidize over time. Solid paint is much easier to fix with the inevitable chips all but a trailer queen get.
 
I would practice with the gun and some of your topcoat on some old junk doors etc. I would first do the jambs, under lid and hood, inside truck, and.... I would do finish coat with ALL the panels on the car period. one thing to realize, putting all these parts painted back on the car leads to BOOGERS. unless you are good and have good help????
that green with factory metallic is not that hard to do, but it requires the right pressure, and vol, distance from car, and technique. why I say practice with that finish paint on some scrap, get the right feel, then go at it.
if you have a car that will be worth $50,000 finished, THEN I might see someone spending $10,000 on body/paint. BUT what car are we doing here!!???????? just MHO
 
barbee6043 said:
I would practice with the gun and some of your topcoat on some old junk doors etc. I would first do the jambs, under lid and hood, inside truck, and.... I would do finish coat with ALL the panels on the car period. one thing to realize, putting all these parts painted back on the car leads to BOOGERS. unless you are good and have good help????
that green with factory metallic is not that hard to do, but it requires the right pressure, and vol, distance from car, and technique. why I say practice with that finish paint on some scrap, get the right feel, then go at it.
if you have a car that will be worth $50,000 finished, THEN I might see someone spending $10,000 on body/paint. BUT what car are we doing here!!???????? just MHO
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Actually it is a pretty rare car.. 1968 Barracuda formula S 383 4 speed Complete matching numbers car. I have the original manuals , window sticker , cert card and California plates. That's why I was thinking about the 10 grand paint job, but raising a 2 and 4 year old boy and girl the money is needed elsewhere...
 

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And yes I plan on practicing on a 68 Dart hood and Hyundai tiburon front fender I have laying around.
 
doug 371 said:
general rule is to paint metallics assembled
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:evil4:


Not true, painted my demon with trunk hood and doors off, but painted at same time as body and you cant tell at all.

A good painter should be able to paint the car with the hood doors and trunk off and it match unless its tri coat such as pearls or candies/flake then its more difficult but solid colors and metallics are not a issue
My dad painted my demon and painted hundreds of cars and has done paint/body/frame work for 30+ years, every car they did a full resto on at the body shop he worked at when he painted them the doors hood and trunk were always off and sometimes the fenders, never had a problem with color matching.

Having a good quality paint and clear helps too.
Doors trunk and hood off my demon were painted flat on stands, had no issues with color match
 
furyus2 said:
With metallic paint, you want to watch for Tiger stripes. I think it usually happens when you get too close with the gun. I have shot a car with each coat a different direction, then pull the gun back and lay a final coat to even the metallic. I'm sure someone will chime in who has more experience.
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Now I never painted cars, but I have done a lot of work with metallic and mica's used on aircraft. They don't use metallic on aircraft nose cones because of the radar interference, so mica's are used instead. Also, tiger striping can occur because of dirty spray guns, and/or incomplete coverage. Also when the special effect pigment in a clear, whether metallic, (aluminum), or mica, tiger striping is more difficult to control. In the last example, effect in a clear, coverage is VERY critical because of the lack of 'hiding' power. Spraying 'candy effect' is an art in itself.
 
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