Paint Questions

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72ScampTramp

72ScampTramp

Scamp Tramp
Joined
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Fort Dodge Iowa
Ok ive bounced a few ideas off some folks. I recently shot my Scamp with Urethane Single Stage. Monster runs so I sanded it back down and its sat that way for a bit. I need to buy more paint... I was looking at buying Urethane Basecoat/clear system.


1. Will i have to seal the car before switching?

2. If i stay with the Urethane Single Stage I should be able to just prep it and shoot right?

I guess what I really dont understand is that if they are both urethane based paints why i would have to seal if I switched to the Urethane basecoat system.
 
I believe you can just wet sand it flat with some 600-800 and spray your base.
 
Sand it but not wet you want it smooth but wet sanding is a little to smooth, a little profile will improve adhesion ad it still wont be noticeable. Make sure you tack it off good then spray your base.
 
I did plan to resand it all back down to 400 grit. My understanding is a sealer is needed most when you dont know whats underneith! I happen to know all the layers down are urethane based primers because I sprayed them.
 
efriedrich said:
Sand it but not wet you want it smooth but wet sanding is a little to smooth, a little profile will improve adhesion ad it still wont be noticeable. Make sure you tack it off good then spray your base.
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I disagree. You wet sand primer to 600 or 800 why would the base be any different. I know lots of guys that will wet sand 1000 grit and respray clear.
 
Well maybe I will be shooting it myself again. Just talked with a local shop. I asked how much to paint If i delivered the car ready to paint. Supplying the paint as well. To mask and shoot $1200
 
72ScampTramp said:
Well maybe I will be shooting it myself again. Just talked with a local shop. I asked how much to paint If i delivered the car ready to paint. Supplying the paint as well. To mask and shoot $1200
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God, I love these threads. LOL!!!!

$1200.00 ... And how much money have you wasted on your amateur attempts?

If you don't want a pay for a pro paint job take classes and learn to spray.

Or better yet, start with a single panel and work your way up.

Stop throwing your money away.

BTW - I admire your "never give up" attitude.

sscuda

:glasses7:
 
sscuda said:
God, I love these threads. LOL!!!!

$1200.00 ... And how much money have you wasted on your amateur attempts?

If you don't want a pay for a pro paint job take classes and learn to spray.

Or better yet, start with a single panel and work your way up.

Stop throwing your money away.

BTW - I admire your "never give up" attitude.

sscuda

:glasses7:
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Im shooting Restoration Shop paint from TCP Global. Right now all ive spent on top coat isabout $160... The BC/CC system is $270. Sorry but IMO a car delivered ready to spray $1200 is too much. Not to mention im supplying the paint.
 
72ScampTramp said:
Im shooting Restoration Shop paint from TCP Global. Right now all ive spent on top coat isabout $160... The BC/CC system is $270. Sorry but IMO a car delivered ready to spray $1200 is too much. Not to mention im supplying the paint.
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Scamp,

You have the desire, I can tell. That's 80% of a good paint finish.

If you want to shoot paint properly you have to start at the beginning and build up to a complete paint job. I have never heard of anyone getting it right the first time, or second or third either, etc. etc..

The best way to learn is find a local school that teaches body and paint at night. You will learn from a trained professional (semi-trained most times). They will try to teach you the proper methods without the bad habits most of your friends will have.

Or, practice your technique on individual panels at your leisure. Not the best way but it is practice. And you get to develop your own bad habits.

Is there a bump shop in your area you could help out part -time after work or school.? They could train you but it would take a while before they let you pick up a gun.

In short; there are no quick fixes for your dilemma. It takes practice, practice , and more practice before you will be satisfied with your work.

You can keep painting the car yourself and end up with a film build issue like cracking, splitting or delamination (peeling). Or you can pay the painter the money he wants and be done with it. The $1200.00 sounds a bit steep but I have no idea what they charge nowadays for paint or labor to paint a car. Ask around to a few other shops.

I wouldn't stop trying though, sounds like you might make a painter out of yourself in the long term. I was like you about a life time ago.

Good luck with your painting career.


sscuda
:glasses7:

FYI - Licensed spray painter since '73 and former OEM Paint Applications Manager for an OEM automotive paint company. I retired from the OEM paint industry in '98. I still paint, but just my own stuff. And yes, I still get the supreme satisfaction of doing a good paint job.
 
The tech sheet provided by the manufacturer will answer your questions. Every paint mfg has their own recommendations, and it varies by product. If you need help finding the technical sheets, post what specific brand of paint and which system you plan to use and we can help.

As an example of the info available, is a link to the product page of PPGs popular DBC basecoat. Click on the page to d/l the technical sheet to get an idea.

It would also be useful to look up the sheet for the paint you used to find out how long it takes to cure, material type,etc.


https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProdu...roductID=e295fa42-bf67-4dd5-b617-9e17b5d6179d




72ScampTramp said:
Ok ive bounced a few ideas off some folks. I recently shot my Scamp with Urethane Single Stage. Monster runs so I sanded it back down and its sat that way for a bit. I need to buy more paint... I was looking at buying Urethane Basecoat/clear system.


1. Will i have to seal the car before switching?

2. If i stay with the Urethane Single Stage I should be able to just prep it and shoot right?

I guess what I really dont understand is that if they are both urethane based paints why i would have to seal if I switched to the Urethane basecoat system.
Click to expand...
 
keep at it man. you can make it happen. i used TCP globals resto electric metallic blue SS and it went on sweet. you just need to find that sweet spot with your gun settings, technic, mix and temp. prep and air pressure is everything as well. i had a few decklids i used to get my gun and pressure dialed in , then i went for it.
 
wet sand with 1200 grit then buff it...no repaint needed
unless you sand into the primer...or sealer or metal...whatever is under it.
 
....and when you sand use a rubber block. You can do this don't give up. There's a lot to be said about doing it yourself. It's called pride.
 
harleydartguy said:
wet sand with 1200 grit then buff it...no repaint needed
unless you sand into the primer...or sealer or metal...whatever is under it.
Click to expand...


Thats a good point. You need to block it anyway. Why not block it out and buff it ? Id start with 1000 and knock it down, Then go 1500 and 2000.

Either way $1500 while not cheap isnt a bad price to mask and spray it. They will likely spend a day cleaning and masking, another day paint and clearing. 2 days of work.
 
Third time is the charm, you came this far, you can paint it. Dial that gun in like a laser and you'll have it.
 
Been reading here and on other forums today. Let me see if I understand BC/CC system. When laying the base you can fix your errors as you go between each coat right? Except on the last coat which you want to do no sanding prior to clear is that correct?
 
Basecoat - clearcoat looks best intially, so the best choice for a show car. Manufacturers use that because their main concern is looking good on the car lot. How many cars have you seen lately less than 10 years old with failed clearcoat flaking off? Especially true in sunny areas. Also, the stone nicks and scratches that inevitably occur in a driver can't be easily repaired. A single color can be easily repaired in the future and costs less initially. That is my choice in a driver. If you really want to save search www.moparts.org for "roll & tip" method w/ Interlux Brightsides paint.
 
Absolutely zero reason to use a single stage these days. BC/CC is is superior in every way including repairability.

I work in the automotive refinishing business.
 
Should be way easier to handle as well if a mistake is made. If there is a run, sand it out, spray it again. The pucker factor should go away.


BTW, this thread made me decide to go BC/CC. :D
 
72ScampTramp said:
Well maybe I will be shooting it myself again. Just talked with a local shop. I asked how much to paint If i delivered the car ready to paint. Supplying the paint as well. To mask and shoot $1200
Click to expand...

Just curious, but does that price include them polishing the car too or only masking and spraying?
 
I would assume that is mask and spray. wet sanding and buffing would easily be another days work and I would charge a minimum for $800 to do that at my shop.
 
AdamR said:
I would assume that is mask and spray. wet sanding and buffing would easily be another days work and I would charge a minimum for $800 to do that at my shop.
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All I wanted was it to be sprayed. I was going to take care of the rest. But I think im going to follow the advice here and go BC/CC system and sand the entire car back down to 400grit and shoot. From my understanding I can shoot the Base and if I get some flaws i can fix them on the fly unlike SS. For me that sounds like it might be easier for a beginner like me.
 
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