Painting Engine

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Johnjgonzo8D

Johnjgonzo8D

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Now this is something I want to do in the near future, If I wanted to paint my engine, what should I do? I want to do the intake manifold, valve cover, and block. Would regular coats of spray paint be okay? And should I sand it down with a smooth grit to get rust off first? any help is great. Thanks guys
 
Just clean up any grease or fluid that is on the motor. Then, you can hand sand it to give the paint something to cling to. I used high heat flat black as a base coat on mine. Then painted the block Chrysler Red. And did the manifold black. The oil pan and valve cover is Silver. All the brackets are flat black as well.
You can get all the paint from NAPA, Autozone, Pepboys, O'reilys, etc.
 
The problem I've had in the past is getting the block, heads, etc. clean enough. Any oil in the nooks and crannies just makes the paint flake off. I use spray-on brake cleaner to get in the tight spots.You can remove the valve cover and manifolds and get them cleaner than if they were still on the car. Also good time to replace any leaking gaskets.

I'm in the middle of a 225 rebuild so everything is apart with the block, head, valve cover, oil pan, etc. hot-tanked. Everything else I've been bead blasting down to bare metal. If you are "restoring", the block, intake, valve cover, oil pan, etc. are all one color.
 
Factory was the same color all over except the alternator and AC brackets which are black, and the exhaust manifold, which is unpainted. VHT engine enamel Chrylser Red is an almost exact match for the original.

Use copious amounts of degreaser; not Gunk, but a paint prep type of cleaner. Remove any loose paint.
 
As stated, cleaning is critical to any paint project. I had great success with Eastwood 2-part engine paint. I applied it with a brush and it was self leveling. It dries very hard and has not peeled after about 2k miles. Pics in my build thread if your interested. I think brush is easier than spray if the engine is in the car.
 
I'm painting a 318 right now.

I haven't done this in decades, but there are new products available.

First I used Zep de-greaser and pressure washed as much grease as I could.
Three times, and with the engine at different angles on the stand.
Next I wire brushed as much rust as I could with a drill, then a Dremel.
Finally, I'm using Duplicolor rust converter.

I've had real good luck with this in the past, and you can see remnants of the surface rust change to a black material. I think the key is to get off as much rust as you can, and only use the converter for what absolutely wont come up due to casting texture etc.

We shall see how it turns out.
 
Just finished mine...Marla
 

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When I painted my engine I used oven cleaner to help get gunk off, then I pressure washed it, and used starting fluid and a rag to get off any remaining oil or grease. Works like a charm!
 
Many people spray everything installed at once, like the factory did. I paint all components off the engine, in different colors. Spray "500 F engine paint" works. Rustoleum's lets you spray at any angle, which is needed if painting w/ engine in car. Some have an associated primer, which might help. I used Rust Destroyer spray primer since they claim 800 F.

I recently posted my factory slant valve cover, where I used Rustoleum's new "Metal Coat" spray. It gives an interesting irredescent look.

You can get true colored hoses in silicone (blk, blue, red). It lasts almost forever, but is pricey (see ebay). I use it for some 5/8" heater hose and the turbo inlet duct on my M-B.
 
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