Painting...

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twayne24365

twayne24365

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Well I'm about to paint my car, I'm just asking if there is anything I should do differently or add to my process, I'm going to be using a single stage acrylic enamel.here's what I have so far.
Sanded car down with 80 grit all of the filler and glaze work is finished, very few small spots are bare metal. Everything has been blocked and hand sanded with 180...

I have primer sealer that doesn't need hardner or reducer. after I give it 2 coats and it dries, I plan on blocking it down with 400, then 600 grit, then comes the pain.
Is there anything I should add or do differently? Thanks
 
I would not use a primer that did not require a hardner and reducer. After I had the priming and blocking done I would use a 2 part sealer on the whole car just before shooting color. That is just how I do it, what you have planned will work as well.
Good luck----DR------
 
Why do you want to leave the surface so aggressive and then sand the sealer? Can you list the products you have?

I would suggest you prime the car then finish with 320-400 then seal and paint. A list of your products will help.
 
They are finsh 1 products from Napa...its what we used on my dads car and it turned out pretty good.
If I went to 400 grit then primed it, do I still have to use a sealer before laying the paint on?
 
That is an exciting time for sure. I have used epoxy primer then 2-k primer on my 65. Good luck and take your time. Send pics.
 
Well here was some pictures doing the body work, the worst spots on the car were the roof to quarter seams, the lower quarter, drivers side door in the front bottom corner, and the drivers fender needs some attention
But here's a few pics

IMG_20160508_212332539.jpg


IMG_20160509_244740687.jpg


IMG_20160509_212936505.jpg
 
Here's the drivers side lower door after I sanded off a 1/2 inch of filler

IMG_20160510_114725390.jpg
 
Has any primer surfacer been sprayed yet? I would definitely prime the car and block it before sealing and painting.
 
No, nothing has been sprayed yet, I'm going to get the paint today, I'll get primer....also when I prime it then block it all out, do I need to use sealer before the paint?
 
From what I understand, the sealer seals in the bodywork to prevent anything "popping up' or cracking under the paint. I am not sure if it is necessary, but it may be extra insurance. I am not sure if the sealer gets blocked. I would think not, unless it is laid on thick Also, my car had a lot of filler in the drivers door also, its amazing, my car is rust free, but still has a lot of filler to make it straight. I think it is something with the Dart /Valiant body where it takes filler to really straighten them out.
 
Ha-ha, yea that sounds about right. I'll go ahead and get primer, sealer, and paint....I'm not looking for a show car by any means but something half decent lol
 
Can you buff the paint you are using? that is the ultimate final step with base/clear anyway. You would be surprised how good it can look with a little more work after the paint is dried.
 
Can single stage acrylic enamel be buffed. I believe what I purchased said it couldn't be buffed or clear coated.
Really not sure, just curious
 
I've always heard of buffig single stage....like the old laquor, mine as well roll it on then buff the hell out of it lol
 
I haven't sprayed mine yet. I do have epoxy primer with 2-k, but that is where I had to stop
 
Tadams said:
Can single stage acrylic enamel be buffed. I believe what I purchased said it couldn't be buffed or clear coated.
Really not sure, just curious
Click to expand...

One thing I can suggest is ask for a P-Sheet when you buy your products.. PPG always calls them P-sheets or Product sheets... it gives you all the info on the product and how to use it. I suggest reading each one before using them. It usually answers all of your questions.

As far as buffing a single stage well, yes and no. Is it a solid color? Then yes. If it has any pearl or metallics then no. When you wet sand a metallic paint and buff you disturb the flake in the paint.
 
why not use single stage urethane, it would be a better product and not cost much more.
 
Well I went to get the paint yesterday, and they no longer have the finish 1 acrylic enamel. So I got ppg urethane single stage and primer
 
plese try to take off all your parts dont paint a car with bumpers on it or side markers handles all that stuff needs to come off.
 
Att: They are all getting rid of signal stage paint. Paint companies are getting rid of all paint products that take reducer.I don't seal my paint jobs any more. Final sanding of any thing I use 400 grit then my top coat. Make sure you use a good wax & grease remover & a tack cloth.
 
cawley said:
Att: They are all getting rid of signal stage paint. Paint companies are getting rid of all paint products that take reducer.I don't seal my paint jobs any more. Final sanding of any thing I use 400 grit then my top coat. Make sure you use a good wax & grease remover & a tack cloth.
Click to expand...
Why are they doing away with all Single Stage? Is it the EPA?
 
cawley said:
Att: They are all getting rid of signal stage paint. Paint companies are getting rid of all paint products that take reducer.I don't seal my paint jobs any more. Final sanding of any thing I use 400 grit then my top coat. Make sure you use a good wax & grease remover & a tack cloth.
Click to expand...


Makes sense, I heard that the industry was going to water based paint. Acrylic I'm thinking. I had some paint work done on my Harley this past winter.
 
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