Painting...

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wow! you are lucky . no rust! the acrylic urethane will be more durable IMO. me personally, I would give it a coat of the epoxy primer, then a good high fill sanding primer, blocking and getting that just right, another coat of epoxy reduced for s ealer, then follow that with finish coat. I agree the tutorial is a great piece.

probably before long all you will find is water base auto paint.

have very good respirator, cover your self, and eyes before using this stuff!!!!!! No joke!!

yes the right way! ha would be to take every friggin thing off the car before paint, BUT a carefull guy can do pretty darn good with tape. good green tape.... out of sun! but it will NOT give the same results a s pulling everything off!! I agree with him. but not everyone is for perfect results. they drive it noT show it!??
 
A lot of waterborne paints (basecoat) is of a polyurethane make up. I know PPG for sure and possibly Sikkens are made up of latex resins. The PPG waterborne base is fully suspended... basically you don't even need to "shake" or "stir" it as it doesn't settle. All of the mettalics are suspended. No mixing banks are needed, you basically pull the toner off the bank and tip it back and forth 3-4 times and pour. All of the pearls are liquid now too.
 
67Dart440GT said:
A lot of waterborne paints (basecoat) is of a polyurethane make up. I know PPG for sure and possibly Sikkens are made up of latex resins. The PPG waterborne base is fully suspended... basically you don't even need to "shake" or "stir" it as it doesn't settle. All of the mettalics are suspended. No mixing banks are needed, you basically pull the toner off the bank and tip it back and forth 3-4 times and pour. All of the pearls are liquid now too.
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i'm old school, old, and completely wore out! unless it can be shot with a $75 HVLP cheap ole gun, I will be SLO!! ha........

local shop changed over to water base couple years ago and before he retired and tried to sellout, he told me he had to buy all new guns and all for it!??? another guy said NO . i'm NO bodyman, just can't and won't pay to have my driver type cars done, so I do it all. but bout woreout!!!!!!
 
I have not sprayed water based automotive paint, but have finished furniture with it. Very easy to spray. The best part is if you left a glass on a table it will not leave a water stain like furniture did in the past. I wouldn't mind trying it on my car just to see how it works
 
barbee6043 said:
i'm old school, old, and completely wore out! unless it can be shot with a $75 HVLP cheap ole gun, I will be SLO!! ha........

local shop changed over to water base couple years ago and before he retired and tried to sellout, he told me he had to buy all new guns and all for it!??? another guy said NO . i'm NO bodyman, just can't and won't pay to have my driver type cars done, so I do it all. but bout woreout!!!!!!
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Its getting to where you have to do it yourself, most body guys wont paint over your prep work, they complain about your prep work, they have the car fo1-1 1/2 years, they want thousands of dollars. I cme to the relization that if I want it, I will have to do it myself. I am going at it slow, but its moving forward. I don't want a show car either, I want to drive mine and know it will get scratches and knicks so I am going for it. my ultimate goal is that it ends up better than it was, in my signature pic is how it was, in gray primer, so I think it will end up pretty darn good LOL!
 
Yea I'm taking the side markers, bumpers and such off, even though on dads car we just taped everything off, another day or so and I'll be ready to spray. The rain is kind of holding me up, I don't like to sand in the garage lol
 
Totally agree. My 65 barracuda formula S had a guy give me an estimate of 6,000 to paint it. Very little body work and repaint the same color. I may be retired, but have painted a few cars when I was younger and refinished more furniture than I care to think about. For around 350 I can purchase the materials, build a temporary paint booth and do it myself. Time isn't an issue. If it doesn't look good after I finish I can do it over and over again till I'm satisfied and I promise you I will not spend that much. I've already sprayed the dashboard and some interior trim and it looks really nice.
 
I have taken the glass out and removed all of the chrome and trim pieces. I know it will look great when I finish. My problem is I look for all of the mistakes other people make. Then I try to avoid those issues. I'll be proud when I'm finished and when someone asks who did your body and paint, I can proudly say I did it myself. The picture is of epoxy primer as it sits today.

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barbee6043 said:
i'm old school, old, and completely wore out! unless it can be shot with a $75 HVLP cheap ole gun, I will be SLO!! ha........

local shop changed over to water base couple years ago and before he retired and tried to sellout, he told me he had to buy all new guns and all for it!??? another guy said NO . i'm NO bodyman, just can't and won't pay to have my driver type cars done, so I do it all. but bout woreout!!!!!!
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"They" say you must use a "certain" gun for this... well I already had it minus the fluid tip needle and cap.. I said well if it's required guess you better provide it! That set from Sata is about $300. I've used all of my regular guns with no problem with water... and as far as doing it at home... not gonna happen. You need special "dryers" or blowers for water base and a TON of air... Like Screw compressor ton of air.
 
Yea we have a stand up 60 gallon compressor that seems to do the trick....I think one of the most important things is goot filtration to keep the water out of the lines..
Every time you think you have a pannel good and ready to go l, you look back and find something else, body work is so frustrating lol
 
Here's a few my girlfriend took, I tried to do a pannel at a time so I didn't get ahead of myself, these when I glazed the quarters then got them blocked and moved to the doors/fenders

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cawley said:
If your in the market to buy a paint gun make sure it is all stainless if you want to try to spray the new water base paint. The new water base paint dries with air flow not heat. I was also told that in the future people are going to need a license to buy paint material.
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the license, you are probably right. I admit I f that happens, out here in the Mo. sticks, I could go to any number of shops and buy the paint from them . BUT, i' old, retired poor, and just plain tired, i have 6 cars, 5 of which painted, .... and I will just buy up enough material for do maybe 2 more cars in the future. that would be bout 1 gal epoxy primer, 2 gal of sanding primer, and bout 1 1/2 gal acrylic urethane!!!!!!!! ha

its great that SOME people can afford to send their "baby" to the body shop for 1 1 1/2 yrs, and spend $6000. put it is much "greater" that people can have the guts and work ethic to do it themselves. they CAN make the outcome as good as any shop if they want to......but it takes lots of work, some equipment, tools, ingenuity, learning, and LOT of work ! did I say lots of work!???? ha
 
It's awesome when someone asks who painted your car and you can say I did it myself
 
Well, I finally got the car down to 220 and shot the primer on it tonight. 3 coats of ppg white primer. Turned out pretty good, now gonna block it down with 400-600 grit and paint

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the work and $$ will be well worth it all. lets just face it, most of us cannot afford 1 to 1 1/2 yrs in the body shop and their $6000 bill!!?

looks like nice work. don't ya feel good!!?
 
Awesome feeling to be able to do it yourself
 
Well I got the recommended 2 coats on...after it dries off I'll get some more pics

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Sure wish my phone would show pictures. I am excited to see your progress
 
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