Partial Cluster Power - probs not an IVR issue

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csheehy

csheehy

^Yup, that's me
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Could use some help. I changed to the RT Engineering IVR last week and am having problems now that I didn't before - namely, parts of my cluster are not live.

'68 Barracuda

I'll start by saying, the IVR red lamp is blinking, and there is 12V at the appropriate post on the circuit board. All the lights work on the cluster. I added a positive ground from a grounding screw on the circuit board to the chassis. Things seem OK so far. The car runs - had it out today.

But...
  1. Fuel and Temp gauge still not operating (Fuel used to work - somewhat)
  2. Brake and High Beam indicators not working (new problem)
  3. No power to the INST fuse at the box in Acc or Run positions (new problem)

I've been under the dash more time today than I slept last night. I'm scratching my head on this one, hoping someone here is smarter than I am (not difficult) and has an answer or at least some tips.

Thanks all,
Chris
 
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Sounds like you created them.

When you added the SS IVR did you disable the factory IVR in the fuel gauge, and how!

It it very easy to mess up the multipin connector to the dash without some finesse! Grounding to the dash can always be an issue. Did you bench test?
 
1969383S said:
Sounds like you created them.

When you added the SS IVR did you disable the factory IVR in the fuel gauge, and how!

It it very easy to mess up the multipin connector to the dash without some finesse! Grounding to the dash can always be an issue. Did you bench test?
Click to expand...

Thanks for such a quick reply.
  1. I did disable it by opening the fuel gauge and bending the action arm (whatever it's called)
  2. Multipin - that's something I hadn't thought of other than I know it's connected. Not sure if I'm off the mark though. Is there an image showing how any of the colors on the passanger side align with respective pins? I can see that side easily - sort of. A visual would help. Great idea.
  3. Nope - didn't bench test. Regrets.
Thanks again for the rapid reply!
-C
 
Bending the arm in the fuel gauge is open for discussion! Seems like a cheap idea to me!

You can confirm the voltages with bench testing.

Here is a factory wiring detail in color.
 

Attachments

  • 68 Barracuda Factory Wiring REV 2.pdf
    120 KB · Views: 127
Yea, sounded crazy to me too. Blind faith.

Reading 11.3V at the 12V terminal on the cluster. Is that what you're looking for? Tested as-installed.

Thanks for the pic, that's a super version. I'll match it up tomorrow best I could. I appreciate your help Gerald.
 
The output of the regulator to each of the 3 gauges should be +5v. Roughly 10 ohms should be full, 23 ohms half and 73 empty. Same for all three gauges. You can bench test using the rheostat of an old headlight switch on the cheap.
 
csheehy said:
  1. No power to the INST fuse at the box in Acc or Run positions (new problem)Chris
Click to expand...
THAT FUSE is inline AFTER the light switch. Power path to the dash lamps is as follows:

Power to dash lamps is in tail/ park circuit, and goes through the light switch FROM that, ............through the dimmer control..........out of the light switch.............TO the fuse panel on tan............through the inst fuse..........and out to dash lighting on orange wiring

So the parking or headlamps must be on.........

The tail fuse must be supplying power..........

The dimmer control must be "sufficiently" turned to the left.....

and then you will have power to one end of the inst fuse
 
Can you post a good clear photo of the rear of your cluster. These are easy to follow just by looking at them. ARE YOU SURE you fed the new IVR into the correct terminal of the cluster?

Other problems...........broken circuit board traces.....

loose / corroded nuts on the gauge studs.......

loose / corroded connector pins at the cluster connector

I've made postings (many) on testing gauges. You can insert resistors in place of the senders to test them. All three (Ralleye) have same sender resistances

THANKS to whoever posted this photo of the gauge tester

c-3826-jpg.jpg
 
1969383S said:
The output of the regulator to each of the 3 gauges should be +5v. Roughly 10 ohms should be full, 23 ohms half and 73 empty. Same for all three gauges. You can bench test using the rheostat of an old headlight switch on the cheap.
Click to expand...

I was typing LOL
 
Here's what's going on in the image (below).

The IVR is behind the red box grounded to the old condenser mount on the cluster housing.
  • Red wire from the IGN spade of the IVR is connected to the 12V stud on the cluster
    • The other IGN spade on the IVR is feeding the red box - a signal converter for running a V8 tach on a 6cyl engine
    • The 12V source for the ChargerSpecialties tach (Classic Industries) is being sourced at the circuit board 12V post - the tach fine.
  • Black wire from the IVR 5V spade leads to the gauge input on the cluster
  • Circuit board is clean, no apparent faults, and is otherwise in good visual appearance. Original.
  • A ground has been added under the red box and is the same as it appears HERE (let me know if an uploaded image is better - pic is not on my PC, but I can make it happen)
  • All bulbs are new
  • All connections are using factory components which are clean and free of non-conductive anything
  • The AMP gauge is bypassed - just connected the two terms with a bolt and taped to enclose and avoid shorting
Hope this sparks your thought process - thanks again guys!
BTU19KhF0RF


Here's how the Fuel Gauge was modified...
 
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Frankly the photos are so small I cannot really tell but from what I can see.....OK

Can you "jig" it up on the bench, battery neg power to the ground point, and to the ign terminal, what are you getting for 5V at the IVR?

Make CERTAIN your grounded is actually so
 
All tips were great - thank you all - it sparked my thinking. It seems I not only had a bad ground, but a bad temp sender too. Process of elimination also concluded that my Fuel gauge is kaput. A project for another day. Oil and Temp are much more important than a fuel gauge (to me).

Thanks again to all!
-Chris
 
Well that's great you made some progress. Is it possible the fuel gauge problems are due to "surgery?" IN other words maybe it could be fixed?
 
Fuel gauge fix - I hope so. It's very likely an internal fault not external... I'll probe around some more this summer, but I was mostly concerned with getting my status gauges working than my fuel. I can remember to fill my tank, can't guess on pressure and temperature though :)
 
csheehy said:
All tips were great - thank you all - it sparked my thinking. It seems I not only had a bad ground, but a bad temp sender too. Process of elimination also concluded that my Fuel gauge is kaput. A project for another day. Oil and Temp are much more important than a fuel gauge (to me).

Thanks again to all!
-Chris
Click to expand...

Both the old IVR and the actual fuel gauge nichrome is very black, so I would agree with your assement as stands. I replaced all with the charger specialties gauges and replaced the Tach board why I had the cluster on the bench. Mounted the SS IVR as you did. Happy camper now!
 
G
1969383S said:
I replaced all with the charger specialties gauges... Happy camper now!
Click to expand...
Glad to hear good things about CS. I found Russ there to be less than helpful or knowledgeable. I was not impressed. Perhaps I'll reconsider future dealings. Thanks for your insight.
 
These are very different from factory gauges in design.

I was very pleased short of the ammeter! The directions stink as far as it goes and the the amp gauge is an issue to install. I found a solid way to install it safely and the solution was pretty darn simple! You likely have the items needed in you kitchen drawer.
 
To me, it is one of those deals that you weigh the cost of used unknown originals against rebuilt originals and again against $400 of original looking modern style units x how many times do you want to do the dashboard boogie?

I put my originals back in at restoration not knowing for sure due to the aux mechanical gauges I previously had, with crossed fingers and the whole dash on the bench without pre-test. After that did not give the results I wanted due to oil pressure and temp gauge issues, I opted for the one boogie and spent the $400. I wish I had budgeted it up front and not had to do the one boogie I have done!
 
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