passenger rear wheel locked

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A shop with a press will be needed to replace the bearings. I think most guys on here would recommend the (green) bearings. The 8-3/4 does not require you to pull the pumpkin (what you are calling the hub) both axles can be withdrawn without touching it. One side will have an adjuster on it to take out the side play when you reinstall the axles. As far as the tag goes, the factory did install them when new. You should be able to do this without much effort. Be safe and always use jack stands and eye protection.
 
Arrgh... this wasn't in the plan. I ordered the better ones from NAPA but not the Green ones. I think they'll be ok, (there's varied opinions about them even on this site), I doubt I'll still be around by the time it needs another set ;). Thanks again.
 
run the regular bearings it is not a problem. You likely do not have a sure grip unit (pt) if you can turn one wheel with the other locked (unless very worn out). Do both while you're there may as well just do it once and be done with it.

There is a hole in the axle flange and as you spin it it will align with the axle nuts that secure the axle and backing plate to the rear end housing. On the side that spins you likely only need to remove the nuts and the axle will slide out. On the frozen side it may require you to disassemble the brake shoes on that side to remove the nuts properly.
 
totally bewildered now. the rear wheel turns with a breaker bar (not easily) with the drum off (drum comes off easy). both wheels up engine running, in drive, the drivers side turning from the drive shaft, passenger side not moving at all... WTH?
 
belmateo said:
I hope the outer bearing didn't chew up the housing end. I would get that axle out of there asap.
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Going to try this weekend. LOL, not like it's going anywhere anyway.
Where can I get these "Green" bearings? The guys at the supply stores are clueless, they don't show up online at their sites. My local speed shop just closed their doors for good. I saw some in the classic Mopar catalog but are there any other outlets?
 
How did you verify you were in N? The shift indicator? Could be the tranny isn't really in P or N when it shows that. Before tearing into the rear-end, I would disconnect the driveshaft. It takes 10 min, assuming you can get at the rear end, and I think you need to do that anyway for the rear-end work you plan. Good to do periodically anyway to check and lube the U-joints. If you have a Sure-Grip rear-end, I don't know the diagnostics. It might seem stuck when it is OK.
 
well it's not the axle bearings! Something must be up with the 489 section, apparently it's been out before, its leaking and there is no ratio tag or SG washer on it. Probably best to pull it anyway because I don't want some rediculous high ratio suckin gas. So I better see what's in there and what's screwd.
 
thanks all for your help.
Well, got the bad news today, it was the sure-grip unit, the whole things shot, can't even rebuild it. Ring & pinion are ok. Crap! Now I gotta find a new one.
 
wlecat said:
thanks all for your help.
Well, got the bad news today, it was the sure-grip unit, the whole things shot, can't even rebuild it. Ring & pinion are ok. Crap! Now I gotta find a new one.
Click to expand...

What type is it clutch or cone? What is bad in it? May be able to help and a picture of it and what is wrong would help.
 
clutch, spiders AND casing all torn up! My friend who owns a transmission shop took it apart & showed me, he advised me to get a new unit, as it's not worth fixing. Now I know why the car sat so long. This is killin' my budget
Thanks for the offer of help. Trying to determine which type to get, I want new, can't take a chance on putting in a used SG unit; new prices are all over the place, some ridiculous.
Offers on new units will be considered;
free new units will be gladly accepted ;)
 
Those are the Eatons, yes they look tough. Might be too much $ for something I don't need. Will be running 3.23 ratio, no serious racing. Maybe a little light hopping is all.
Giving these serious consideration. You'll probably recognize them.
 

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  • 8.75 Sure-Grip Power-Lock Posi Unit - 30 Spline - Mopar NEW.jpg
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  • 8.75 Sure-Grip clutch type Unit - 30 Spline - Mopar NEW.jpg
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Yes, that's the bottom unit I am giving very serious consideration I noticed the mod too. The others mention shims, do I need them or can I reuse the old ones?
 
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