People building cars should watch this.

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TrailBeast

TrailBeast

AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
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A year old video, but good information on crappy aftermarket parts sold as “performance”

 
Saw that a while back, was linked from....somewhere (Finnegan's Garage? VGG? Steve Dulcich?). Anyway, Birdsong really speaks his mind on this one, and while he does seem a little PO'd from time to time, he makes some damn good points.

Good video, IMO.

(Edit: Come to think of it, I think I may have even responded to that video, something to the affect of, "Well, I guess you won't be getting any freebies from them anytime soon!".)
 
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I was surprised by his comments on the "Green" axle bearings. He is definitely not a fan of them.
 
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6PakBee said:
I was surprised by his comments on the "Green" axle bearings. He is definitely not a fan of them.
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I'm not, they suck, good for drag racing or tooling around cruising...
 
Jus' sayin, but "they suck" is not a technical term, and doesn't really tell us much.
 
WHERE DID he say anything about what brand the GOOD alternator is??
 
67Dart273 said:
Jus' sayin, but "they suck" is not a technical term, and doesn't really tell us much.
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Are You referring to the green bearings?
Yeah, no mention at all who makes the kickass billet alternator, guess We have to search "billet alternator".......it's expected of Us now.
 
67Dart273 said:
Jus' sayin, but "they suck" is not a technical term, and doesn't really tell us much.
Click to expand...

If you thrash your Mopar at road courses and autocross events (like Chris Birdsong does) with lots of hard cornering the Green bearings (ball bearings) can't hold up to the sustained high thrust loads. The vast majority of classic Mopar owners don't do that though so for most people they're fine.

Modern RWD cars equipped with IRS use unit-bearing hub assemblies which have a pair of opposed tapered roller bearings built into them to support thrust loads. Later-model Mustangs that still had solid rear axles used straight roller axle bearings that provided no side support but the axles were retained with C-clips inside the diff for thrust support. Same with any C-clip axles like the Chrysler 8 1/4", if you break an axle shaft the entire wheel/tire/brake/hub assembly slides out the tube and you're SOL but that's generally only an issue on bigger heavier vehicles with big tires doing offroad stuff, or a high-powered drag car that sees high torque loads from launching with sticky tires etc.
 
I did a few aftermarket fuel injection ECUs on some of my kids cars. We monitored air fuel ratio and we won't run the car if the ratio is too far off. Pretty standard thing when you run aftermarket fuel injection you should be monitoring AFRs and correct the system if its too rich or too lean. Sounds like he just slapped the fuel injection on the car and ran it without monitoring checking if it was working correctly?

Power Master alternator, yep I had one once. It was exactly like he said. Discharged battery at low RPMs completely useless part. I returned mine got money back went with some basic replacement alternator which worked fine.

Brand new Wildwood brakes that don't work, thats terrible, money down the drain.
 
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