Pick a block

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

LA roller cam block. 318 or 360. I’d like to collect 3 of each

Yep, that should last a man his lifetime if he doesnt build time bombs.

 

[383Scampman]

IMO , any MAgnum block that passes a mag check for everyday service . If you're building a street motor they it doesn't really matter . I would save the 340 for the resto crowd . Just make sure you have the heads maged also . 99% are cracked .

 

[K.O. SWINGER]

Only a sonic check will tell you what can or can not be done. I had a 340 tank with a .020 over bore. Had it been sonic checked to begin with instead of assumed, it never would have been machined. The wall thickness in cylinder #8 after boring was a huge .034 thick.

Amazing huh?!?![ Core **** oh I mean core shift sucks !! I worked in an iron foundry and I know it can happen with any cast, but I'm curious what year was the block?

 

[replicaracer43]

People seem to never consider the fact that the bores have corrosion INSIDE the water jackets, and in the case of 50 year old blocks, it can be quite a issue

 

[rumblefish360]

Try typing your quote on ether side of the quote tags.

Year of the thin walled 340? I don’t remember and I ain’t checking until spring.

 

[AJ/FormS]

which block is favored and for what reasons.

IDK, but I have a killer 367 (4.04 x3.58), with a small cam, that makes a cheap to build dynomite lil STREET powerhouse.

 

[Garrett Ellison]

Try typing your quote on ether side of the quote tags.

Year of the thin walled 340? I don’t remember and I ain’t checking until spring.

My machinist says to sonic check all 340 blocks, but says that the 1971-73 (casting date 1970-1972) blocks usually are where you’ll find a set of thin cylinder walls.

 

[Krooser]

How do you get 4.250 bore out of a factory 340 block?

You don't....but thats what works. Maybe sleeve it but the bottom end would likely blow out!

 

[Nat]

block don't matter to me as long as it checks out solid , 318 340 or 360 can all br built up well with he right parts .
i guess a roller block would be best as all i hear these days is the crap quality of hydraulic lifters made these days

 

[go-fish]

I have a 650hp 1971 360 block that is currently a 408” with forged internals, Hughes ported Edelbrock Performers, main girdle, hyd. roller lifters, and a D1 Procharger.
I’m about to pull the engine and freshen it up. Nothing wrong with the engine. I just parked it when gas was expensive, I was going to college, unemployed, and just had baby #2. It’s been inactive for 6 years.

Right now, I have a 340 based stroker going together at a well known machinist. Performer heads ported by him. I dropped off the block, heads, Edelbrock Proflo 4 intake (Victor with bungs), road race pan, timing and valve covers. Piston and cam unknown to me, I just told him at least 500 hp. On this build I viewed it as let the engine master do what he does best. I gave him a idea of what I needed and trust his knowledge and expertise to get me there. This engine is going to be in an auto cross/ roadrace car and he’s built a few of those. He’s not fast and I’m getting anxious but, hey, coronavirus slowed everyone down except my job apparently.

Yesterday, I picked up a 1973 360 for a spare. I like the early run of 360 if you can find one.

Almost forgot about my 318 spare. It’s a 1971 block, I believe, with a forged crank. 302 heads. I was going to rebuild it and put it in the truck I have in the for sale section. Ill throw it in with the sale of my ‘76 D100 which has the original 318 still in place.
Sorry for the shameless plug for the truck sale.

BTW, there’s a lot of LA **** on my Instagram @5_points_racing . Hit me up if you’ve got pics of your LA on a stand or dyno.