Pick me a mini starter

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mayhem

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I'm gathering parts and on the hunt for a quality starter for a reasonable price. Engine is a 10.5:1 528 Hemi with TTI 2 1/8" headers. I've seen at least one mini starter on Amazon (Total Power Parts 410-24200 - and it's out of stock) with 1.8 kw but the majority are 1.4 kw. I've looked at Rockauto and see a reman PureEnergy unit at $57.79 + $20 core or a new ACDelco unit at $79.79 and no core charge. Anyone have a suggestion as which of these is preferable or is there another choice I should look at?
 
With a 528, I would get the King Kong starter, 3.2 hp MSD DynaForce. The 1.8 kw you listed is only 2.4hp. Powermaster also have a high power starter. 528 is a lotta cubes. Not the area to save a few bucks...
 

I read this thread/post ^^^^ but was a little confused when @slantsixdan wrote:
"This Bosch starter's main body is ~same diameter as the other starters, and slightly longer than the...05-'08 Ram Hemi/MT starter made by Mitsubishi..." and "Its solenoid is clocked such that on a Slant-6 it protrudes outboard more than the block-hugging one on the Ram Hemi starter — this is probably what also makes the Hemi Ram starter not fit B-motors, which looks to me like the opposite-clocked solenoid on the Bosch starter would enable a B-motor fit...This Bosch-type starter's power rating is 1.8 kW." Then posted: "Here's 10+ availability at a pretty nice price." and that link shows a 1.4 kW power rating. My confusion prompted this thread. So, my question then, am I looking for a Bosch starter? If so, is there a specific part number?
 
With a 528, I would get the King Kong starter, 3.2 hp MSD DynaForce. The 1.8 kw you listed is only 2.4hp. Powermaster also have a high power starter. 528 is a lotta cubes. Not the area to save a few bucks...

I was going off of the (relatively) low 10.5:1 compression ratio. Why are cubes important (please excuse my ignorance)? Also, if it matters, the TTI website says to use the PowerMaster XS Torque starter 9523 - or is this just a generic note to use a mini-starter?
 
I was going off of the (relatively) low 10.5:1 compression ratio. Why are cubes important (please excuse my ignorance)? Also, if it matters, the TTI website says to use the PowerMaster XS Torque starter 9523 - or is this just a generic note to use a mini-starter?
Cubes have nothing to do with a starter's difficulty turning an engine. That said, I'm actually having difficulty finding the Bosch starter Dan linked to.
 
I've had great luck with these folks...DB Electrical. I've got 2 of their starters in service about 3 years each. They are simply amazing, relatively inexpensive, and free shipping. Put it this way: if one ever goes out, I'll get the same one from them.

I wish I could tell you how fast it spins my 10.5CR 408 but it rips it so fast it starts quicker than you could really say.

https://www.dbelectrical.com
 
I've had great luck with these folks...DB Electrical. I've got 2 of their starters in service about 3 years each. They are simply amazing, relatively inexpensive, and free shipping. Put it this way: if one ever goes out, I'll get the same one from them.

I wish I could tell you how fast it spins my 10.5CR 408 but it rips it so fast it starts quicker than you could really say.

https://www.dbelectrical.com

How about a part number please?
 
How about a part number please?
Sure - I can help! I use p/n SND0088 which translates to their p/n 410-52033. IIRC, this one comes with the electrical connector "adapter" which can also be removed if it interferes and you then have the basic wiring connector configuration. Hope this helps.

1760310285992.png
 
Cubes have everything to do with the starter. Take the spark plugs out. Notice how much quicker the starter spins? Compression is much less. More cubes means more air that the starter is trying to compress & is why bigger engines need more powerful starters, all else being equal.
 
Sure - I can help! I use p/n SND0088 which translates to their p/n 410-52033. IIRC, this one comes with the electrical connector "adapter" which can also be removed if it interferes and you then have the basic wiring connector configuration. Hope this helps.

View attachment 1716465991

@Demonx2, Do you know if this will fit a big block? I'm assuming so but need clarification. Thanks.
 
Cubes have everything to do with the starter. Take the spark plugs out. Notice how much quicker the starter spins? Compression is much less. More cubes means more air that the starter is trying to compress & is why bigger engines need more powerful starters, all else being equal.

To Bewy's point, here's what PowerMaster says in their propaganda:
The torque output of a starter is the most important consideration. The starter must be able to spin the engine, and do it without overheating internally. Since there is no such thing as having too much torque -even on a street vehicle - a 200 ft.lb. starter will work for everyone. Speaking in general terms, a over 12:1 compression or higher engine should use a 200 ft.lb. starter. Engines up to 12:1 should use at least a 180 ft.lb. starter. 160 ft.lb. starters are good for engines up to 10.5:1.
One thing to keep in mind is that the torque characteristics of a starter are a function of its design. High voltage batteries or low internal resistance batteries will affect the kilowatt output of the starter by changing the output speed but not the torque. Therefore, buy enough torque to begin with.
 
One final note this morning...
Here's what PowerMaster's catalog says about the 9523 starter "required" by TTI:
POWERMASTER PERFORMANCE Sorry but you'll have to navigate the site to page 30. In a nutshell, the starter is a 1.4 kW 200 ft/lb unit.
 
Ok, I lied. I just spoke with Deanna at Indy and she says the mini-starter they sell comes from Mancini and is an offshore product. When I asked about the technical specs, she put Kenny on the line. He says they use the PowerMaster 9523 on all their race cars. Says it fits better than anything else, will last a long time, and has plenty of '***' to turn their highest compression engines over. It is amazing what I didn't know about starters.
 

I've emailed the company regarding the one @slantsixdan posted. We'll see what they say.

Breaking news! Just got this back from the @slantsixdan source:

Unfortunately, it appears this has been discontinued, so we will not be acquiring more inventory. We're very sorry for the inconvenience.

If you need additional help, our live chat agents are just a click away! Simply visit our website and click the chat icon to connect with a team member. We’re available Monday through Friday, 8 AM to 5 PM EST, and we’re happy to assist you in real time.

Thank you for reaching out,
Customer Service
 
Mayhem,
Yes propaganda from PM. They probably do not have a high HP starter in their range, so trying to sell you on lower hp. 1.4kw=1.9 hp. Very low hp. you wouldn't use a 400 CCA battery with a big engine, nor should you use a low HP starter. You will pay a little more up front but you will have a starter that will start the engine under all conditions.

CVR have a 3 hp starter. So do Summit, not sure if they one for Mopar. Same deal with Tilton & Meziere.
 
Ok, I lied. I just spoke with Deanna at Indy and she says the mini-starter they sell comes from Mancini and is an offshore product. When I asked about the technical specs, she put Kenny on the line. He says they use the PowerMaster 9523 on all their race cars. Says it fits better than anything else, will last a long time, and has plenty of '***' to turn their highest compression engines over. It is amazing what I didn't know about starters.
Compression, heat and cylinder pressure have SO much more to do with turning an engine than cubic inches. I mean, I get it. Bigger bore, longer stroke....moves more air, yadda yadda. But no amount of propaganda convinces me otherwise. Also of course, good electrical connections. But a 318 to a 440 for example? You'd never know the difference.
 
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